Worcester Bosch Greenstar - No CH

[Lewis Duff]

Hi Guys,

Wondering if you could offer some advice, we have just bought our first house and we are having a nightmare with the CH. I will be having the full system replaced in the next 12 months (when we have the £'s), but for now, I am hoping to keep the old system going. We have a Worcester Greenstar Ri which has worked fine for the past week then the other day the CP53 circulating pump started making a whirring noise and ( I am assuming this is linked) the heating stopped working. The boiler fires upon demand and the green flame-shaped light comes on, then after a couple of minutes it turns off again, the thermostat is on full and the timer on constant. I am a bricklayer by trade so know very little about the magic of CH, but we are a bit hard up at the moment so hoping its something I can sort out for now. I have attached a photo of the pump and boiler. I am wondering if this could be a case of replacing the pump? If so, which pump would you recommend? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

 

[AMGasServices]

Sounds like your pump is goosed and will need replacing. Touch the pipe from the boiler to the pump is it warming up ? And the one after the pump to the port valve is that also warming up ?

As far as you know has the system been drained down could be air in the system too.

 

[Lewis Duff]

Hi AMGas Services, thanks for the reply. The pipe connected to both the top of the pump and the bottom are red hot. Dont know if it has been drained down recently, it was working a few days ago. Seen online that to let any air out you undo the black bolt shaped plastic cap and let some water out? Is this correct? Would replacing the pump be a straight swap out? Thanks

 

[townfanjon]

Yep I am with amg on this ,but before you try a new pump , carefully hold it , can you feel any slight vibration, if not just see if its getting power ( you may need a friendly sparkie) before you try a new one .

 

[Lewis Duff]

It is vibrating so assuming I need a new one? Is it as simple as isolating electric and water, removing the pump and replacing with another CP53? thanks for the help.

 

[townfanjon]

If you are lucky both valves should turn off , you wont be able to buy the exact pump , the nobs in Brussels decided to change our heating pumps back in 2015 . A good swap would be the standard grunfoss , screwfix sell them .

 

[Lewis Duff]

Would something such as this do the job? https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/grundfos-ups2-15-50-60-central-heating-pump/42635
Looks like the isolator valves above and below turn so fingers crossed they are ok!

 

[townfanjon]

cheaper ones available but they are ok , fingers crossed that the valves work lol

 

[Lewis Duff]

might give this a go,
151711 Central Heating Boiler Hot Water Circulation Circulating Pump
only needs to last 12 months or so and its only £29 on Amazon. Will just get the buckets at the ready! Thanks for the help.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Would something such as this do the job? https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/grundfos-ups2-15-50-60-central-heating-pump/42635
Looks like the isolator valves above and below turn so fingers crossed they are ok!

yep that one will work

 

[ShaunCorbs]

might give this a go,
151711 Central Heating Boiler Hot Water Circulation Circulating Pump
only needs to last 12 months or so and its only £29 on Amazon. Will just get the buckets at the ready! Thanks for the help.

i wouldnt tbh

 

[AMGasServices]

If you are going to change the pump make sure it’s aligned ie flow direction. Otherwise it won’t work.

The easiest way is to make sure the arrows match up ie if the arrow is facing up after changing the pump the new pump arrow must also face up.

 

[AMGasServices]

The arrow I am referring too.

 

[DGT plumbing]

If you have an old fashioned compass to hand place it on the front of the pump when it's on and if it's working the needle on the compass will spin round with the magnetic field produced by the rotation of the electric motor.

 

[Lewis Duff]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the help. Will be collecting the grundfos one from Screwfix tomorrow and will have a go at it. Hopefully, it is the pump! Thanks again

 

[DAVE01]

Hi Guys,

Wondering if you could offer some advice, we have just bought our first house and we are having a nightmare with the CH. I will be having the full system replaced in the next 12 months (when we have the £'s), but for now, I am hoping to keep the old system going. We have a Worcester Greenstar Ri which has worked fine for the past week then the other day the CP53 circulating pump started making a whirring noise and ( I am assuming this is linked) the heating stopped working. The boiler fires upon demand and the green flame-shaped light comes on, then after a couple of minutes it turns off again, the thermostat is on full and the timer on constant. I am a bricklayer by trade so know very little about the magic of CH, but we are a bit hard up at the moment so hoping its something I can sort out for now. I have attached a photo of the pump and boiler. I am wondering if this could be a case of replacing the pump? If so, which pump would you recommend? Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

View attachment 34408

View attachment 34409

Hi if you only moved into house could be pump is stuck get yourself a big screw driver loosen nut on pump turn on heating there is a nut with a screw driver turn this gently this will free it up and heating should fire the boiler you have is one of the best on the market failing all of the above get yourself a volt ohms meter disconnect live and netural set meter to ohms touch the probes to L and N if you get 100 ohms pump is ok anything less than this its on its way out if you have to replace pump nock of valves to pump get 4mm hex key take pump head off and replace with same reason I say replace with same is some times these new energy saver pumps do not get full power weather it be from time clock or else were you might have to replace the programmer hope this helps good luck stick with the heating system you have do not go for a system boiler if its not broke do not fix bye

 

[Rob Foster]

Thanks guys, really appreciate the help. Will be collecting the grundfos one from Screwfix tomorrow and will have a go at it. Hopefully, it is the pump! Thanks again

do let us know how you get on - it helps us help others

 

[Darren Jackson]

Lock open your 2 ports in the manual position and see what happens. If one or both are not responding and are closed the pump will make a noise and the boiler will go off after a min or two. So check power to pump and if it is spinning if power there but not spinning or weak impellar. Change pump. If no power then check 2 ports are opening and activating the microswitch. If micro switch is activated but no power out then change microswitch. If switch not operated check power to motor if power present then change motor. If no power to motor check room thermostat continuity or power in and out. Power in but not out change stat. No power in then check programmer.

 

[Gasmk1]

You can check pump is spinning by undoing the plastic nut and pulling it out slightly it should spin freely then turn on heating and see if it spins if not then it is probably that, if one or both valves are open, then just push nut back in and tighten again

 

[Lewis Duff]

Hi Guys,

Thanks again for the last post, got the old boiler going again!

Wondering of you could offer some further advice.
The boiler is now working with the new pump (kind of), we have hot water and the boiler fires when there is a requirement for HW. However, not when there is a call for CH. But when the boiler fires for the HW the radiators get warmed up for a short period. Im wondering if it could be down to a faulty motorised valve as pictured previously. The valve for the HW is working fine but the CH automatic valve is not, I think the internal motor is shot as the lever on the side doesn't not move when under demand. Would this stop the boiler from firing up under a demand the CH?
The CH valve is open (i think) as we are getting some heating when the HW is on. At the moment, the CH valve motor has been taken off and the valve left in what we think open.

Could this all be down to the automatic valve or is it something else, thermostat maybe?

The thermostat is on full and demand for heating set to constant on the programmer.

Any help would be much appreciated as I'm left scratching my head here.

Many thanks

Lewis

 

[Harvest Fields]

worded wrong

 

[Harvest Fields]

Anyone thought about the heating 2 port?

 

[Harvest Fields]

Lock open your 2 ports in the manual position and see what happens. If one or both are not responding and are closed the pump will make a noise and the boiler will go off after a min or two. So check power to pump and if it is spinning if power there but not spinning or weak impellar. Change pump. If no power then check 2 ports are opening and activating the microswitch. If micro switch is activated but no power out then change microswitch. If switch not operated check power to motor if power present then change motor. If no power to motor check room thermostat continuity or power in and out. Power in but not out change stat. No power in then check programmer.

Just seen this. Sorry mate

 

[Lewis Duff]

Just seen this. Sorry mate

Hi Harvest Fields.

Apologies if not written correctly. Just trying to explain the situation the best I can.

Do you think if I was to replace both the automated valve on the CH side of things and also replace the thermostat, it may resolve the issue?

Many thanks

Lewis

 

[Lewis Duff]

Hi Harvest Fields.

Apologies if not written correctly. Just trying to explain the situation the best I can.

Do you think if I was to replace both the automated valve on the CH side of things and also replace the thermostat, it may resolve the issue?

Many thanks

Lewis

Thinking of purchasing a new valve such as the attached as it looks like for like.