Yes it is still working.... | Gaining Plumbing Experience | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Yes it is still working.... in the Gaining Plumbing Experience area at Plumbers Forums

P

paulosaolo

Hello everybody

First off I hope you don't mind me posting my question here but here goes.

I have recently replaced my horrible randal 103 CH control with a new electronic Sunvic 107. Unforunately I can't get the CH to come on using the new switch. Does any body have any ideas why it won't work?

(I could leave the question there but I think I'll have to come clean. Before fixing the new single channel Sunvic, being a novice (read - gung ho), I originally used their 2 channel model and promptly blew the fuse at the consumer unit. This is now replaced and the Sunvic will light up etc and the boiler will still fire up for the DHW (which doesn't run off the timer switch) - I am confident also that it is wired correctly.)

Is it possible then that I have also blown a fuse in the boiler electrical box? And if so would it likely be the 2A or the 1.25A fuse?

For info I have an old C&M Britony combi SE "and yes it is still working".

Thanks in advance for any help that you can give. To put your minds at rest I have already trawled the internet looking for similar problems / solutions so am not looking for an easy get out just a helping hand by some experienced practitioners.

Thanks again.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well if it was working before and you are sure wired correctly,and after blowing fuse due to incorrect wiring, that I do not know,would think you have damaged heating side of pcb,you could check glass fuses on pcb if any,can not remember ,if you have damages could be an expensive mistake
first remove all external wiring,time clock and room thermostat and just loop in and out terminals on pcb to eliminate them from fault equation,with a bit of luck it will work and you will not need a new pcb
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The shiny new digital clock will last a fraction of the time the randel did thats if you havent blown it up already
FIRST THING TO CHECK IS WETHER THE BOILER IS GETTING A SUPPLY TO HEATING FROM THE CLOCK
where the wiring connects to the boiler you will have five wires L N E AND TWO MORE BOTH THE TWO SHOULD BE AT 240 VOLTS
 
Last edited:
Puddle

Thanks for the tip. I looped the input / output and I fear that I have damaged the pcb in some way. Both glass fuses look fine so it looks like an expensive mistake, you live and learn..

Steve

I take your point about the longevity of these new devices but the Randall was so ugly!

As a final question is it possible to buy just the CH side of the pcb or does it all come as one?
 

Similar plumbing topics

Replies
14
Views
1K
True. Would have been fun otherwise - 5 zone...
Replies
13
Views
3K
Thanks some good ideas. Just as an aside if we...
Replies
10
Views
2K
  • Question
Hi. Sorry if I missed it - did it get resolved...
Replies
5
Views
9K
I have connected the secondary pump to a wifi...
Replies
9
Views
2K
Back
Top