Yet another shower pressure thread | Showers and Wetrooms Advice | Plumbers Forums

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

Discuss Yet another shower pressure thread in the Showers and Wetrooms Advice area at Plumbers Forums

Z

zaz

Hi all, new to these boards - and plumbing, be gentle!

So, i decided to replace our bathroom suite and tiles etc, did the legwork on how to go about waterproofing the room etc, didnt really think much about the plumbing as i made a schoolboy error and assumed it would be a straigt swap out.

Anyhoo, we had, as it turned out apparently, a thermostatic shower mixer (always thought they were electric ?) but i bought a standard wall mixer assembly, elbow bracket fixed to the blockwork, mixer exposed.

Never had an issue with the water pressure before, turned it on and off you go shower-wise, now however i get barely a dribble at standard operating height. I had a read about and i figure this is because i have a gravity fed system, there appears to be a pump for the house but the feed from the tank reaches the shower first before going anywhere else, the pump seems to be for something else (heating maybe?)

The old pipework was a mixture of plastic to copper to plastic again, welded here, compression there, a real mishmash, so i cut the feeds at the main sources which seem to be 3/4" of both plastic and copper. I PTFE'd the pipes and fitted 22mm compressions, which i then joined onto JG speedfit 22mm pipe.

Now, the cold feed is fine, the mains pressure is great here so regardless of where i wave the showerhead, it runs fine. The hot just doesnt seem to want to know and, if its because of the tank height/head ratio, i cant figure out why it worked before and not now.

For reference, the 3/4" copper feed exits the tank at about 1.7m and the shower has always sat about 2m. From that alone, i cant see how i used to get any hot pressure at all !

My theory for the pressure drop,dont shoot me if im wrong, i that the speedfit pipe has a smaller ID than standard copper/plastic and therefore the volume would be lower. That said, the actual run of pipe ive replace is only about a meter all in, ive tried both ways with mostly 15mm (as it was)and mostly 22mm as it is now.

Should i just use some compression copper instead or look at should the speedfit do the job ?

Been a loooooong day, heads buzzing now, thanks for reading :)
 
The bathroom feed for cold (bath/tap/shower) was and is the mains, ive previously followed the line directly to the mains inlet downstairs and have been using that stopcock on and off as its the only one ive found that works to cut off the bathroom.

This pipe which is 3/4" then tees off to the airing cupboard where it is reduced to a 1/2" pipe that feeds into the top of the cylinder and also into the cold tank.

The hot feed comes out of the cylinder at about 1.7m through a 3/4" pipe into the bathroom first then tees off to the kitchen and downstairs taps via a 1/2" pipe.

The pump is a Grundose 59425609 that appears to be on a feed to (or from) the boiler downstairs.

Id put up a pic of the pipework in the airing cupboard/bathroom for comic value but thats about as usefull as it would be, its like spaghetti junction

I need to get the walls boarded for tiling, so what i might do is leave a 15mm pipe feed from the shower assembly to floor level, unconnected at the bottom. The bracket takes a 15cm centred exposed mixer so whether i use the one i have or get something different, at least its in place once the pressure is worked out, in the meantime the pressure is good enough to run a bath/tap/bog so i'll have to make do for now
 
Upvote 0
No idea of the mixer brand that was there, i can try and find it in the trash tomorrow for a looksee. It was tee'd off the hot and cold feeds to the sink taps which were an eyesore, one of the reasons to renew it all :D

I'll look into that treviboost now, cheers
 
Upvote 0
Hmm, maybe a simpler and cheaper option may be to install an electric shower, given the mains pressure is good, i can run the bath/sink off the existing hot, run a cable direct to the fuse box which is directly under the bath on the floor below.
 
Upvote 0
a pressure reducing valve on cold supply before shower is probably the most cost effective way to solve this
trevi boost is suitable for mains cold and tank fed hot
sirrus ts1850 will also work in this situation with correct flow restrictors fitted
this being said i always find showers work best with balanced pressures on both hot and cold supplies
 
Upvote 0
How would a pressure reducing valve on the cold help ? the hot doesnt run on its on, which it should for an effective shower no ?

Trevi boost is out of my price range really, after a quick look about.

Im looking at the Triton Seville 10.kw atm, 70 quid delivered, but will keep looking for a bit
 
Upvote 0
may have miss read your first post did not realise you had no hot flow
what is the vertical distance in from the base of cold water tank to where you want to fix shower head
did you have a shower there before what type was it and how was that one plumbed
if you want to run an electric shower you would need someone who is part p registered to do electrical work
 
Upvote 0

Similar plumbing topics

  • Question
I don't see your comments?
Replies
8
Views
814
S
  • Question
If it was on a job of mine I would cut it out...
Replies
1
Views
700
  • Question
Sounds to me that the 15mm pipe that you are...
Replies
14
Views
1K
Essaboy
E
S
  • Question
Many thanks, Ben-gee - that's very useful...
Replies
2
Views
833
Steveo111
S
  • Question
This might be of interest...
Replies
1
Views
596
Back
Top