Pushfit heating pipes

jrtrrror · Jun 15, 2019

Hi
Is this a pushfit elbow?
Can the pipe be easily removed should I want to do. Is a release tool needed? Does anyone recognise the fitting? So, that I know what to by.
The drain valves are now leaking after draining the system and I've been told the need replacing

These look very similar

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/drayt...viihAVyKT__seBmHUmG3kF61a5NjsBEgaAt19EALw_wcB

Thanks

Scott_D · Jun 15, 2019

Yes it’s push fit
No special tools needed

jrtrrror · Jun 15, 2019

Hi. Thanks for the reply.
So, how do I disassemble the pipe from the elbow? I may need to cut the pipe shorter. Can it be reassembled once I've cut the pipe shorter, or is it a one time only fitting.
Thanks again

Scott_D · Jun 15, 2019

Push the white ring into the fitting and pull the pipe out.
Should be reusable if it’s not damaged.

jrtrrror · Jun 15, 2019

Thank you.
Especially at this late hour
Do you know of any videos showing demounting of these?
Thanks again

AMGasServices · Jun 15, 2019

jrtrrror said:
Thank you.
Especially at this late hour
Do you know of any videos showing demounting of these?
Thanks again

Here you go.

Harvest Fields · Jun 16, 2019

The elbow is pushfit onto the pipe. But the drain off is compression. Make sure the system is drained fully before removing.

Burger · Jun 16, 2019

Harvest Fields said:
The elbow is pushfit onto the pipe. But the drain off is compression. Make sure the system is drained fully before removing.

I think it is fully drained mate, there’s another thread similar

Rob Foster · Jun 16, 2019

Fully drained mate !

jrtrrror · Jun 16, 2019

CBW1982 said:
I think it is fully drained mate, there’s another thread similar

Good morning all. Thanks for the video. I've used Speedfit before, so I am familiar with their use. I wasn't sure if this Drayton push fit (if that is what it is) works under the same principle. I know that some of these manufacturers have different systems.
Thanks again everyone. It means a lot that people are so willing to help and probably just as important, make no judgements. (Well, not publicly anyway. Hahaha)

jrtrrror · Jun 16, 2019

Just out of curiosity. If the ordered drain valves don't come today, is there something else I could buy from SF to cover the distance from the rad to the rad valve. Instead of the drain valve. I really need to get it done today. We've got no heating or hot water. I've seen items called tail valves and tail extensions. Would these do it? I know it means that they wouldn't have drain offs, but I'd have to deal with that in the future if necessary. I've taken some pictures to show dimensions.

Thanks again

jrtrrror · Jun 16, 2019

Rob Foster said:
Fully drained mate !

Sorry. I didn't spot your reply.
Yes, it's all fully drained

Burger · Jun 16, 2019

Rob Foster said:
Fully drained mate !

Have I missed something?

AMGasServices · Jun 16, 2019

jrtrrror said:
Just out of curiosity. If the ordered drain valves don't come today, is there something else I could buy from SF to cover the distance from the rad to the rad valve. Instead of the drain valve. I really need to get it done today. We've got no heating or hot water. I've seen items called tail valves and tail extensions. Would these do it? I know it means that they wouldn't have drain offs, but I'd have to deal with that in the future if necessary. I've taken some pictures to show dimensions.

Thanks again

View attachment 39184

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Try this

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/tesla...MI5JPajuHt4gIVT7vtCh3LrAv0EAQYASABEgIxbvD_BwE

Aire · Jun 16, 2019

jrtrrror said:
Just out of curiosity. If the ordered drain valves don't come today, is there something else I could buy from SF to cover the distance from the rad to the rad valve. Instead of the drain valve. I really need to get it done today. We've got no heating or hot water. I've seen items called tail valves and tail extensions. Would these do it? I know it means that they wouldn't have drain offs, but I'd have to deal with that in the future if necessary. I've taken some pictures to show dimensions.

Thanks again

View attachment 39184

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These will get you up and running
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/tesla...w3tpwTZk64DU5W1XkXFUrfs8c6V_t3nRoCQDwQAvD_BwE

Aire · Jun 16, 2019

AMGasServices said:
Try this

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/tesla...MI5JPajuHt4gIVT7vtCh3LrAv0EAQYASABEgIxbvD_BwE

I prefer the rigid ones

Marc Bowers · Jun 16, 2019

You could just isolate the radiator by shutting down both radiator valves (just remember how many turns you close the lockshield valve (the one with the loosely spinning head) down by so you don’t mess up the system balance when you refill the rad later). With both valves isolated you should be able to refill the system and restore heating and hot water to the rest of the property. It would be prudent to have a couple of caps to cap the radiator valves off with if they let by a little. (The one in the picture needs a 1/2” cap, couldn’t tell you if the other side is the same). That way you can ran as normal, replace the drain off cock when it comes in and just refill that one radiator afterwards.

jrtrrror · Jun 16, 2019

Hi Mark bowers. Thanks. Sorry what do you mean by Caps. Would you be kind enough to drop me a link for the item? SF is open now. Haha

To other guys with there suggestions, I have just watched a very useful video is a telescopic tail being installed. With a link to the item.
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/x-15mm-rigid-trv-extension-piece-0-65mm-2-pack/10954

Three questions.
1.Would your Tesla version be better?
2. Are these telescopic ones reliable? I guess the tube slides within a o ring.
3. Is there enough room within the rad inlet hope for the full length of the extending tube. Or would it require cutting.
I must admit, they look really good.

This is the video

Should the guy really have wrapped the olive and compression fitting with PTFE tape. I thought you shouldn't with compression. He also wrapped the tail that goes into the rad, even the it had its own seal.

Thanks again everyone. I will keep saying it... your help is much appreciated

Aire · Jun 16, 2019

jrtrrror said:
Hi Mark bowers. Thanks. Sorry what do you mean by Caps. Would you be kind enough to drop me a link for the item? SF is open now. Haha

To other guys with there suggestions, I have just watched a very useful video is a telescopic tail being installed. With a link to the item.
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/x-15mm-rigid-trv-extension-piece-0-65mm-2-pack/10954

Three questions.
1.Would your Tesla version be better?
2. Are these telescopic ones reliable? I guess the tube slides within a o ring.
3. Is there enough room within the rad inlet hope for the full length of the extending tube. Or would it require cutting.
I must admit, they look really good.

This is the video

Should the guy really have wrapped the olive and compression fitting with PTFE tape. I thought you shouldn't with compression. He also wrapped the tail that goes into the rad, even the it had its own seal.

Thanks again everyone. I will keep saying it... your help is much appreciated

I don't like the telescopic ones, I've had them leak in the past. The rigid tesla ones work much better in my opinion, if they're too long you can just cut them down. Ptfe round the threads into the radiator and nothing wrong with a little ptfe round the olive, just not round the valve threads, it's pointless.

As Marc says though, you can just turn the valves off, so you can refil your system and just leave that rad empty. and the caps he means are these
https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/blank...P8qKShv3lnK89i2J0Cb1rcBj6qGt1J6BoCDc0QAvD_BwE
If you have a trv then definitely recommend to use one.

jrtrrror · Jun 16, 2019

Hi. Yes, I did think about turning off the valves and refilling. But, everything in this house seems to leak after isolating. Even rad valves. So, thought I'd just leave them as they are. Incidentally, how would I cut the rigid extension tails to the correct size. I have a grinder.

Thanks again

Ben-gee · Jun 16, 2019

Hacksaw then file.

jrtrrror · Jun 16, 2019

So. This is where I'm at. New Drayton drain valves installed. One was very difficult to get to. Is it imperative that you screw the tail all the way in to the end of the thread?
It got very tight to turn but the drain outlet was not yet vertical. I counted how many turns to remove it. I then removed the PTFE and replaced, counting revolutions. But it weeps. Only slightly,

I've left it for now since it's not bad.
I've filled the system. Bled all the rads.
I then pressurised the system to around ¾ bar, below the pressure at which the boiler usually switches it self back on after a low pressure fault code E119, which is around 1¼ bar. (You will see a little black dot on the photo of the dial.) It's a Baxi Duo Tec Combi 33HE is
However, on this occasion the boiler didn't switch on until 1½ bar.
Should I run it at this. Or should I drain some water, to lower the pressure.

Thanks again.

jrtrrror · Jun 16, 2019

Oh wow. I've not ran the central heating yet. But tried a hot water tap. The temperature rose very quickly, up to 94c. I switched of the tap. I opened up the heat exchanger automatic air vent. Which released some air then water, but only a little water. I can open the pump automatic air vent. I could try some grips on it. But I did open the screw on the front of the pump and released air and a teeny bit of water.
What do I need to do.
Surely this ain't right
Thanks

Harvest Fields · Jun 16, 2019

Heat exchanger air vent? Which one is this?

jrtrrror · Jun 16, 2019

Hi. On top of the boiler.
After venting, It settled down a bit.
I'm just slowly raising the hot water temp and venting after a few minutes.
Hopefully I'm going the right thing
I'm not going to put the central heating on until tomorrow.

Burger

Burger

Aire

Aire

Aire

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