Low Mains Water Flow Rate 2 Litres A Minute!!! What Boilers/System Can I Fit??

Hello,

This is my first time posting as I'm a new member so apologies in advance if this has been covered before.

I have recently done a landlords gas check at a property with only 1 gas appliance (heat only boiler) and ended up condemning it as it was ID for many reasons. The landlord asked me to quote for a new boiler and I suggested going for a system conversion from the current Y plan to a combi. I went back around to the property armed with my trusty weir cup and and was horrified, yes, horrified at the flow rate coming out of the kitchen tap, which was two litres a minute! At this point a combi is out of the question, so I'm thinking the only option is to install another heat only boiler to the current system. Are there any other options at this point? Surely an unvented is also out of the question as it would require a decent mains flow rate? I am aprehensive about fitting a modern heat only boiler as the current heating controls are at least 25-30 years old and I would imagine it would be hassle trying to configure them to work with the new boiler. My central heating wiring knowledge is limited so any tips there would be very welcome!

One more thing... I've posted a photo of the incoming mains that feed the property. There is a DIY self cutting outside tap installed right after the third (yes, third) stoptap, which I'm thinking could be a contributing factor to the poor flow rate.

A little more background... I have located the boundry stop tap and made sure it is fully open. I have also fully opened all three stop taps downstream of the 25mm black service pipe. The tenant mentioned that the water supplier came out to the property after complaint and said it is most likely the pipework feeding the house that is at fault and would need replacing to rectify.

What do you think is the best course of action here? Just fit another heat only boiler and wash my hands of it?

Many thanks fellow leaky blinders!!

Yes it could be the existing stopcocks restricting the flow rate. It could also be the self cutting tap affecting it. Did you check the pressure? Heat only would be fine, because it’s the zone valve that brings the heating and hot water demands.

Undertrained said:

Yes it could be the existing stopcocks restricting the flow rate. It could also be the self cutting tap affecting it. Did you check the pressure? Heat only would be fine, because it’s the zone valve that brings the heating and hot water demands.

Click to expand...

Unfortunately didn't have my guage on me so could't check pressure. Think pressure was okay though because if you left the tap off for 20 seconds it would build up and when opening the tap the flow rate would shoot up to 8 litres a minute. Then as the pressure is lost it would return back to 2 litres a min.

Based on that information, I’d say there’s a restriction.

self cutting outside tap installed right after the third ..........has the cut bit floated down the pipe and blocked the pipe?

Yes. Right. That was a good question.

Three stop taps in series, presumably two of them stopped working.

I came across your problem at a customer, only two stop taps, the ancient stop tap had disintegrated inside and half of the brass disc that formerly supported the washer had broken off and lodged itself in the exit pathway of the tap - almost no flow.

As a matter of course why not replace the redundant taps with plain pipe - then go from there.

Stopcocks will restrict to an extent, but I used to have two and never noticed a particularly poor flow. I think Ben-Gee is barking up the right tree.

what is the pressure reading inside vs outside incoming?

Thank you to everyone who replied to this. I went back and removed the original stop tap and found that the brass disc had indeed broken away and blocked the exit port!!So, big thanks to Ben-gee on this one. Can't believe that it was exactly what you said it was

It’s called experience!

You’re welcome, glad you got it sorted.