2 port valve fault finding?

[macka09]

Hey guys. What’s the easiest way of determining that a 2 port motor has failed? I know that if the stat is calling and the arm is set to open on the valve and the actuator is ok it will fire. Is it purely a case of checking whether 240v is at the brown and orange when heat is called for? Any advice would be great. Electrics is a big weak point.

 

[Deleted member 120897]

240 will be at brown if there‘s a demand, and then once opened 240 between blue and Orange. If the motor has failed, it won’t make the microswitch, or sometimes it can jump on the cogs.

 

[macka09]

Ok brilliant. I could always lock it open and use the stat to control it couldn’t I as temp measure. I’m just wondering if it’s locked open, when the other zone calls for heat will it also go onto the zone that’s locked open?

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Yes if you lock it open, any other demands will also circulate around that circuit.

 

[SJB060685]

Bare in mind I don’t think all 2 ports contact the end switch when you lock it open. In that case you would need another functioning zone to bring on the boiler. The load will be shared then but if designed properly that’s not a problem.

 

[John.g]

Bare in mind I don’t think all 2 ports contact the end switch when you lock it open. In that case you would need another functioning zone to bring on the boiler. The load will be shared then but if designed properly that’s not a problem.

The four or five Honeywell 2 ports that I've experienced don't close the contacts, possibly a safety feature as the manual opening/locking is to facilitate filling the system so don't want a empty boiler firing up if it hasn't been switched off.

 

[macka09]

I went and had a quick look earlier. It’s an Esi 2 port and the they’ve piped it in a way that you can’t get the head or cover off without removing the valve above. I was hoping it was going to be a stuck pin, but I couldn’t even quickly try to turn it with the head off. The three 2 ports go into a board on the cylinder and my electrics ent up to it. I’d change the whole valve if it was my own but I wanted to determine the signal from the stat to that valve.

 

[John.g]

If you can use a m.meter, ensure zone programmed on, remove the relevant stat cover, with stat turned down there should be 230V to one terminal (terminal to N or any E) with stat turned up should also be 230V from other terminal to N or E, or 0V between both terminals.

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Try unplugging the rj45 style plug, see if there’s all the wires there, and then see if you can test directly on that pcb wiring center.

 

[macka09]

Try unplugging the rj45 style plug, see if there’s all the wires there, and then see if you can test directly on that pcb wiring center.

I’ll be honest the Pcb chugged me with the wiring. Everything else was working fine and the faulty valves was letting some residual heat pass. Which I assumed the valve was stuck. I was hoping to just turn up and free up the pin but no such luck lol

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Two spanner’s and rotate the whole body

 

[macka09]

Two spanner’s and rotate the whole body

I didn’t have the time mate if I’m honest. I wasn’t going till Monday but thought it may be a 5 min job. Silly me. My thoughts were that the micro switch was the problem. Even in the closed position their was some residual heat going past the valve when the other zone was operating.

 

[Deleted member 120897]

Even in the closed position their was some residual heat going past the valve when the other zone was operating.

If it’s letting by, and not firing up the boiler, then it’ll be the valve, especially when you’ve said you couldn’t turn it by hand.

 

[macka09]

If it’s letting by, and not firing up the boiler, then it’ll be the valve, especially when you’ve said you couldn’t turn it by hand.

Sorry mate, I may be confusing everyone. I could operate the lever by hand, which returned to the closed position but even in the closed position and both zones calling for heat, only the top valve opened on demand. Some residual heat was getting past the faulty valve so I assumed the micro switch wasn’t making for the boiler to fire when only that zone was calling.

 

[John.g]

What does "top valve" refer to?. Are you saying that the faulty valve is opening on demand but the boiler isn't firing but if another zone is called for, the boiler fires up (as it should) and hot water will then flow through the faulty valve? (which it will, if its opened).

 

[macka09]

Sorry I thought I’d uploaded this pic for reference. The top 2 port is fine the one underneath is the faulty one. When the zone at the top calls for heat some residual manages to pass through the bottom of the 2 valves but the arm is in the closed position.

 

[John.g]

You should feel a reasonable stiff resistance when pulling on the manual lever to open it and you may just hear the gears whirring when it re closes, but not much use if its not opening when energised.

 

[macka09]

 

[macka09]

What has happened with this site recently chaps. I’m on my phone but I just keep getting adverts pop up whilst scrolling the pages?

 

[macka09]

Typical. I can’t get a direct replacement off the shelf for these valves. I’ve not heard great things with ESI to be honest. Are there any other manufacturers that use the RJ45 connectors that may work do you know?

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Cut valve end and use a Regin 5 way click terminal/ connector

 

[EvilDrPorkChop]

Cut the wire and put a Regin 5 way plug on.

Regin Electrical Connectors 5-way connector (1 pr) | Wolseley

Looking for a Regin 5-Way Connector E105? Order from Wolseley today - free delivery or click and collect available nationwide.

www.wolseley.co.uk

 

[macka09]

Oh ok. So cut the rj45 connector off from the valve and wire in the new valve to the cable going in to the Pcb. I get ya. Cheers chaps. The Regin connectors look bloody fiddly lol

 

[John.g]

What about the EPH detach pro maybe.

 

[macka09]

What about the

I don’t think the connection on the detach pro are rj45.