Advice needed please - run water pipes out or in walls ?

[Mickey D]

Dear Experts !

Situation: I am re-doing my kitchen, but the previous house owner had a butcher fit the boiler and pipes.
these pipes are currently running outside the wall , in a haphazard way.

Question: should the pipes be running in a channel in the wall or outside ?

Once I know this, I may have a job for you experts

Thanks
Mickey D.

 

[Rob Foster]

I would go straight down maybe box in the vertical pipes sneak them in the wall and then go accross under the sink where it dont matter

 

[Mickey D]

Thanks Rob
That is what I had in mind. Was not sure if I should channel out the wall under the boiler and lag and plaster in the 5 water pipes, boxing in the gas pipe. This would however create a lot of work (channeling out the wall) for little gain (smaller box).

Would you lag the water pipes and then box them ?

 

[Rob Foster]

you really need to get behind the sink drainer so yup loose them in the wall - use a pipe bender it does not have to be pretty. dont use plastic its too close to boiler imho. wrap the pipes in tape before you sink in the in wall behind drainer you have a gas pipe there u MUST get a gas fella in let him do the lot - wont take long and will be cost effective

 

[Chalked]

Gas pipe Looks undersized.
As above. Drop straight down and run behind the units. As long as there is no built in appliance, will be an easy job.
Please get a gas safe guy to do it, as i suspect that gas pipe is insufficient.

 

[sammathias]

To be honest if your going to go through the effort I would get a new boiler whilst your at it. Otherwise when your due a new boiler, as chalked said that gas pipe will probably need upgrading.

 

[Old Account]

To be honest if your going to go through the effort I would get a new boiler whilst your at it. Otherwise when your due a new boiler, as chalked said that gas pipe will probably need upgrading.

I agree with you and as well with chalked.

I’d also upgrade the boiler with a new one and add a filter to spähen system too. Looks just shocking the install

 

[Mickey D]

Thanks gents for the advice
I agree the plumber who did this botch should probably not have been a Plumber.
I will do the following :
Get hold of a plumber/ gas fellow
Ask him to upgrade the gas pipe and move the water pipes

should be an easy and inexpensive job.

Thanks again so much for all your input ☀️☀️

 

[Old Account]

Thanks gents for the advice
I agree the plumber who did this botch should probably not have been a Plumber.
I will do the following :
Get hold of a plumber/ gas fellow
Ask him to upgrade the gas pipe and move the water pipes

should be an easy and inexpensive job.

Thanks again so much for all your input ☀️☀️

If you asked for quality works with good materials then nothing is cheap and inexpensive. I would rather spend more money for good quality materials and get a good engineer.

 

[lindsay hutcheson]

Hi I am new on here, this thread is similar and i couldn't work out how to upload mine....yesterday the plumber cut out our old copper pipes and replaced them with plastic ones. He is telling me that the pipe/connection where they join at the top can be plastered straight over. is this correct, i'm not entirely convinced he knows what he is talking about. I have been on line all night trying to find the answer but there is so many conflicting statements. a) can you plaster over the connection bits, he said he just has to tape them up b)is there anything you need to put over the pipe to stop heat transfer/plaster cracking in some places it is very close to the top of the plaster board either side of it c)should he have included an inhibitor for the pipes in the installation d)these are barrier pipes, how will they be traced in a wall? any help appreciated thank you Lindsay

 

[gmartine]

Plastic pipe will soften and move when heated and as a rule of thumb burying joints is avoided, that's not to say it will definitely leak but doing so increases the risk. It may cost more but I'd have it soldered and re-piped with copper. Why was it removed in the first place?

 

[lindsay hutcheson]

Plastic pipe will soften and move when heated and as a rule of thumb burying joints is avoided, that's not to say it will definitely leak but doing so increases the risk. It may cost more but I'd have it soldered and re-piped with copper. Why was it removed in the first place?

The pipes were on the outside of the wall, there was a few leaks on the copper ones so we opted for plastic so they could recess them so we can have them skimmed. The joints stick out somewhat and plaster board will not go over them. i can see there is not enough depth so they are saying they can be plastered straight over, joint and pipes. I'm not convinced

 

[gmartine]

Get a straight edge and bridge it across the highest points (pipe clips), if it's a couple of mm that isn't enough should be at least 5mm preferably more. They could've recessed the block work to give more space, plastic or copper.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Never bury compression fittings

 

[Rob Foster]

The pipes were on the outside of the wall, there was a few leaks on the copper ones so we opted for plastic so they could recess them so we can have them skimmed. The joints stick out somewhat and plaster board will not go over them. i can see there is not enough depth so they are saying they can be plastered straight over, joint and pipes. I'm not convinced

What I would do and it works fine is get some of that white plastic wire cover strip chase that into wall over the top of the pipes - leaving them to heat up and move about. Then when all is good get some bonding plaster or car body filler and trowel it over to a smooth finish
flush with the wall, fine wall filler, paint - job done. less theory and more practice Rob Foster aka Centralheatking

 

[lindsay hutcheson]

Never bury compression fittings

Thanks everyone, i was worried about the fittings between the 2 pipes becoming in accessible. I have a plasterer coming to skim all walls so I will ask him to do a "little box" around the fittings, the rest of the wall i am confident he can patch with pieces of board then skim over with the rest. This way we can get to the fittings easier if we need to and the main wall is flat. Would that work?

Rob, what is the name of the white plastic wire cover strip, i want to do everything i can to protect the pipes/plaster from cracking

 

[lindsay hutcheson]

Never bury compression fittings

Never bury compression fittings

OK, if i box them out a little and just board/skim over the pipes so they are flat (i may be repeating myself here lol, am new to this)

 

[lindsay hutcheson]

Get a straight edge and bridge it across the highest points (pipe clips), if it's a couple of mm that isn't enough should be at least 5mm preferably more. They could've recessed the block work to give more space, plastic or copper.

it is just a couple mm where the fittings are unfortunately

 

[gmartine]

I've just realised there are three different sites, good luck with that.

 

[Rob Foster]

Thanks everyone, i was worried about the fittings between the 2 pipes becoming in accessible. I have a plasterer coming to skim all walls so I will ask him to do a "little box" around the fittings, the rest of the wall i am confident he can patch with pieces of board then skim over with the rest. This way we can get to the fittings easier if we need to and the main wall is flat. Would that work?

Rob, what is the name of the white plastic wire cover strip, i want to do everything i can to protect the pipes/plaster from cracking

its PVC channel part number 92673 from tool station

 

[Welder]

It must be me...

Firstly, understanding what I do now about how & why corrosion takes place in a system, I would NEVER fit the likes of speedfit or ployplumb etc. They are NOT gas tight so your system life is automatically and immediately limited. IF it must be plastic for some reason use a 100% airtight system & a good de-aerator so that destructive oxygen can be eliminated.

To the OP. If this pipework is on an outside wall then most def do NOT bury and make sure it is lagged properly with insulation that will work to protect against freezing too. That means NOT to use the grey waxy polyethylene insulation but proper nitrile based stuff and make sure its properly glued on every mortal joint.

Doing it properly will not be cheap, but it will save you 5-10 times its cost over the life of the installation. Your call. Buy cheap, buy sh1te.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

OK, if i box them out a little and just board/skim over the pipes so they are flat (i may be repeating myself here lol, am new to this)

That would be fine

 

[ShaunCorbs]

It must be me...

Firstly, understanding what I do now about how & why corrosion takes place in a system, I would NEVER fit the likes of speedfit or ployplumb etc. They are NOT gas tight so your system life is automatically and immediately limited. IF it must be plastic for some reason use a 100% airtight system & a good de-aerator so that destructive oxygen can be eliminated.

To the OP. If this pipework is on an outside wall then most def do NOT bury and make sure it is lagged properly with insulation that will work to protect against freezing too. That means NOT to use the grey waxy polyethylene insulation but proper nitrile based stuff and make sure its properly glued on every mortal joint.

Doing it properly will not be cheap, but it will save you 5-10 times its cost over the life of the installation. Your call. Buy cheap, buy sh1te.

The pipe is it's the fittings same with compression fitting

 

[Welder]

The pipe is it's the fittings same with compression fitting

Shaun Shaun Shaun. Read their tech spec my friend. It very clearly states their barrier pipe has a level of 'allowed' permeability. That its only fittings is a myth.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Shaun Shaun Shaun. Read their tech spec my friend. It very clearly states their barrier pipe has a level of 'allowed' permeability. That its only fittings is a myth.

Don't know how as it's got a lining, I know the old hep stuff sucked in air like anything