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Hello people in the know! I have just moved into a new house. It is a system I am not used to as my previous home had a combi boiler. So, there is a large blue hot water cylinder in the airing cupboard and the dial on the front is set to 65. There is a Valiant Ecotec 418 Boiler in the kitchen and the water dial is set to 65 (it doesn't go higher than this).
I have the water set on a timer to come on at 5pm for one hour.
It just doesn't seem hot enough. So . . . can I turn up the temperature on the front of the blue hot water cylinder or is it governed by the 65 setting on the boiler. Also, how long should the water stay hot for? The system was installed by the previous owner in 2014.
Many thanks for any advice you can give. All the best Jan
 
Hi guys. OK I've attached a pic of thermostat on HW cylinder, CH thermostat in hall and programmer in airing cupboard.
I have not touched the boiler temps eg: HW 65 and CH57.
Now you have seen the controls do you thinks I should up the CH temperature dial on the boiler Fezster?

Many thanks Jan

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Last edited:
Yayyy - I have roasting hot water. So I am guessing my boiler temps (CH &HW) need to be 10 degrees higher than my HWcylinder temp - thank you x

Based on several days of experiments on with a data-logger recording thermocouple readings of my unvented cylinder temperature and flow and return pipes for its cylinder coil I concluded that the minimum that one can get away with is to have the boiler (flow) temperature 5°C higher than the tank set point. So a 10°C difference is a good choice.
 
Good to hear its sorted. Roughly 10 degrees, I've found. Though you may get away with lower. The higher the differential, the faster the heat transfer, and the quicker your cylinder will heat up. This is why vaillant controls boost the flow temp to 80 degrees automatically when heating the cylinder, so that there is minimal disruption to heating.
 
You can get eco ones where it starts with a lower flow temperature to give good condensing and gradually ramps up as the return temperature increases. I think that is basically a more optimal balance between speed and efficiency, it does take a percentage longer but nothing excessive.
 
A condensing boiler will work to a 20 degree flow/return differential. So when heating the cylinder alone, the return temperature will increase as the water inside the cylinder heats up. Whilst the return temp is under 55 degrees, you will get the benefits of condensing. Only for the last part of the cycle (to get the cylinder to 60 or 65) will the boiler not be condensing.

I'm pretty sure every boiler works this way, so not sure what "eco" refers to in this context?
 
A condensing boiler will work to a 20 degree flow/return differential
It will, and that's the recommended design drop for new systems, but it will also work to other temperature differences depending on the conditions present in the system.
Whilst the return temp is under 55 degrees, you will get the benefits of condensing
condensing isn't a binary thing like that, there's a lot of energy returned in the condensation, over 10% more. It's the flue gas temperature the matters most.
so not sure what "eco" refers to in this context
IfI have to look it up as i don't know the details, but it just seems very implausible that controlling the flow temperature to a fixed value could be the most efficient way to heat a cylinder. But it certainly sounds like the quickest way.
 

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