anyone know of a decent combi that only needs a 15mm gas feed?

[andyplumber]

I always run 28mm to boilers as i like to cover myself for future installations, your bound to get a cowboy who will fit a 8 ring range cooker and a gas fire and not bother to check the pipework and gas pressure/pressure loss and just fit it and not leave any proof that the cowboy fitted it and when things go wrong i will be the one getting the phone call.. but always check the MI

 

[gasmarc]

that is the proper way to do it Andy ,as a mate ran it in 22mm only for a customer to change from electric to a rang cooker and blamed him for not putting the right pipe in

 

[GQuigley67]

I disagree, he's not at fault then. Its the guy that fitted the range cooker, he's the last gas engineer on the job, so the responsibility lies with him.

 

[Gray0689]

I disagree, he's not at fault then. Its the guy that fitted the range cooker, he's the last gas engineer on the job, so the responsibility lies with him.

I agree with GQ where not clairvoyant if they intend to add at a later date then should tell fitter at the time

 

[AWheating]

time and time again i have tried to explain to customers that have brought huge double cookers that there will be a chance that the exsisting pipework will not be correct for the new appliance.... you tend not to hear back from them unless the cowboy that fitted it left it unsafe and they want you to take a look cus they have realised that you knew what you was talking about. then you tell them to jump!!

on most new builds i have done in recent years we would always fit 22mm to cooker position to cover the new tennant bringing with them a huge appliance.

 

[Marco]

Update - we fitted the boiler last week and went for 22mm back to the meter, as I like to sleep at nite! Even at 5 meteres, with other appliances 15mm was not going to cut it on the pipe sizing.The issue (that I was trying to get round) was that most the gas pipework was lead, with copper tails to the appliances in a confined crawlspace. In the end we replaced the lead pipework with copper back to the meter, as neither of us are up to speed with copper to lead jointing on gas pipe. Do many of you do this jointing, or is it just us who struggle!?

 

[stevetheplumber]

22mm minimum gas carcase 28mm if higher than first floor in house

 

[gasmarc]

i dont thing lead to copper is legal to do nowadays ?

 

[AWheating]

you can not adapt/reconnect a lead pipe to a new gas carcus. if its exsisting then fine but a new joint to lead is no longer allowed as far as im aware .

 

[tamz]

You are allowed to connect to existing lead pipe but few now have the skills to do so therefore it is usually easier and safer to replace.

From BS6891

COMMENTARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS ON 6.1
When selecting materials for use as installation pipes, consideration should be given to strength,
appearance, cost and the need for protection against corrosion (see Clause 9). The Gas Safety (Installation
and Use) Regulations 1998 [1] state that lead or lead alloy pipes supplying gas are not to be installed.
However, historically, lead pipes were used to install gas meters and lead alloy pipes (known as lead
composition pipes) were installed as installation pipes and can still be found in old housing stock. Providing
this material is in good condition, sound, well supported and is of adequate size, connection may be made to
steel or copper pipework using appropriate fittings (see Clause 7).

8.3.3 Connecting lead composition pipes
When lead composition pipes are encountered and any connection joint has to be made, then only a soldered
cup joint onto copper pipe or a suitable brass union fitting shall be made. Compression fittings designed for
jointing water weight lead pipework shall not be used.
COMMENTARY AND RECOMMENDATIONS ON 8.3.3
It is essential that care be taken when soldering a joint onto lead composition pipework as blow lamps might
provide too much heat at the joint.
Lead solder should be used for this purpose. It is essential that joints be mechanically strong and gas tight.