Atag One Controller or similar?

[Scott_D]

Yes. Would be good to see the new display

 

[Jem16]

Yes. Would be good to see the new display

Hope this is ok. Still to lag the pipes as it's in a garage.

 

[Brambles]

From the picture of the boiler display you have posted, the external temperature sensor is not showing as connected. The logo displaying is an internet temperature.

 

[Jem16]

From the picture of the boiler display you have posted, the external temperature sensor is not showing as connected.

The boiler display is showing the house symbol beside the thermometer. According to the manual that means the outside sensor is connected. I’ve seen it connected too.

Are you looking at the display on the Atag One Zone controller? It does appear to show an internet symbol and probably because I selected Weather Compensation as opposed to Room Thermostat from within the controller’s menu. They’ve changed the Atag One controller recently and I can’t find a detailed user menu yet. The new version is called Atag One Zone controller and its menu is slightly different.

So basically I’m trying to figure out how best to use the weather compensation - via boiler’s menu or controller’s menu.

Also what decides when you want heating on? My last boiler used a digital thermostat to control it. So basically I set the time and what temperature I wanted during that time. I can still set up that schedule but how does the weather compensation come into it now?

 

[Brambles]

Ok, you are probably correct - but my ET display does not look like thst

 

[Jem16]

Ok, you are probably correct - but my ET display does not look like thst

That’s the key to the display.

Can anyone help with my questions on best way to use weather compensation?

 

[Brambles]

Boiler control is still via timed thermostatic controller.

Weather compensation (WC) only adjusts the boiler flow temperature - to a set curve -according to the specific recorded outside temperature. So on a hot day outside, if you set the heating on and the room thermostat to 30 degrees, the heating will come on, but with a low flow temperature - as the room then warms up very slowly, the call for heat will be lengthy. Normally after a continuous call for heat of over 40 minutes, WC may be temporarily deactivated.

Does that make sense?

 

[Jem16]

Boiler control is still via timed thermostatic controller.

Ok got that.

Weather compensation (WC) only adjusts the boiler flow temperature - to a set curve -according to the specific recorded outside temperature. So on a hot day outside, if you set the heating on and the room thermostat to 30 degrees, the heating will come on, but with a low flow temperature - as the room then warms up very slowly, the call for heat will be lengthy. Normally after a continuous call for heat of over 40 minutes, WC may be temporarily deactivated.

Ok. So last night outside temperature was around 13 degrees. Thermostat was set to 20 degrees and was around 19.1 degrees. Boiler came on and flow rate seemed to be around 35 degrees or so and radiators warm rather than hot which seems fine. Temperature never really reached 20 degrees but was around 19.5 which is probably near enough.

Does that sound like it’s doing the job?

Does that make sense?

Getting there thanks. Just not sure on best Room Influence setting though. Boiler instructions show a minimum of 0 and maximum of 3 and seems to suggest using 0 so Off. Atag One controller seems to show the same 3 choices.

This is the bit I’m struggling with.

I’d also like confirmation that the Atag One is using the outside sensor and not taking temperature from the Internet. I believe it uses outside sensor if connected but would like to make sure.

 

[Scott_D]

Has the installer gone through any of this with you?

 

[Jem16]

Has the installer gone through any of this with you?

To a certain extent, yes. However I think I'm more up to speed with this than he is to be honest. Plus I like to understand what's going on myself.

 

[Brambles]

To test the sensor - heat it with hair dryer - with the heating set to 25 degrees - the flow temperature should fall significantly.

The room influence setting should have been determined and set by your installer. The setting is to adjust the impact ( positive or negative ) of the precise positioning of the external sensor against the pre programmed temperature curves in the boiler software.

What you are aiming to achieve is to maximise the duration that the boiler is condensing ( ie. return flow below 55degrees C ) Obviously that is not the case on very cold days - where the driver is to maximise the flow temperature, whilst keeping the temperature delta across the heat exchanger to around 15 degrees C - I think, unless my memory fails me.

If you cannot reengage your installer, set the influence setting to 1. Stop tinkering and leave the system to operate. Observe how it behaves, then after a few weeks make any required adjustments and repeat the process again.

Constant adjustment of the system settings is unlikely to deliver an effective result.

Try to understand over time how the complete system behaves - optimisation ( if applicable), boiler modulation and external temperature flow temp compensation

Any questions get back to me

 

[Jem16]

Thank you - that's very helpful. I have done as you suggested apart from the hair dryer part as it's raining here just now. I'll monitor what goes on. So far the return flow has been in the 30 degrees area.

The installer was out again this morning just to finish off. I have spoken to him about this but he admits he's not totally sure on all of the weather compensation himself. He did offer to contact Atag and ask all the questions but I can probably do that myself if necessary.

I'll come back if I have more questions. I'll post up a screenshot of the system diagnostics too at some point.

Thank you again for your help.

 

[Flure1]

It will not pair with the virgin network very easily , is difficult to set up and the app is not user friendly

Just came across this.
I recently changed my Virgin Hub 3.0 to "Modem" and added a new Netgear wireless router.
The ATAG controler absolutely refuses to find the new wifi system.
ATAG help, isn't.

I'm going to change from the ATAG controller ASAP.

 

[king of pipes]

Just came across this.
I recently changed my Virgin Hub 3.0 to "Modem" and added a new Netgear wireless router.
The ATAG controler absolutely refuses to find the new wifi system.
ATAG help, isn't.

I'm going to change from the ATAG controller ASAP.

I fitted a Nest and it works perfectly. Kop

 

[Flure1]

Thank you.

I've asked the local guy (who also installed the system for me) to switch to a Nest.

He's trying to talk me into taking the new ATAG "Tado"?

Aside from that, ATAG have simply abandoned me. I was emailing and chatting on the phone to someone at ATAG who was trying to help me get the network configured, but he's just stopped responding. Absolutely shocking.

So, meantime, I can only set the controller manually.

I have no problems with the Boiler - it seems like a decent piece of kit and has been for the last 3 years. But the controller? Arghhh!

 

[king of pipes]

I can only speak from experience I'd have a nest every time.