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Unless the divertor is leaking it will not cause the pressure to drop!!, Im not familar with your boiler but, Its not leaking from the PRV pipe outside is it? put a balloon over the pipe for a day or 2, and check for water! When was the expansion vessel checked, could be empty,any new water marks on the carpets below rads on on the ceiling etc? could be something simple like rad valve / TRV weaping overnight when the CH is off and when the CH is on it dryes out!

Pull the rad caps off and have a look for moisture in the caps etc and failing that try a leak sealer if nothing is obvious!

Thanks for the replies, will do as suggested, i am reluctant to buy new boiler because it could simply be that there is a leak somewhere in the system. i will also try blacks suggestion of running hot water tap and seeing if pressure drops. any other ideas as to what i can do to fix this problem???
 
there was a tiny hole in my domestic diaphragm and it caused the pressure to always drop, then eventually hot water stopped working. Since that was replaced pressure is now fine, also leak sealer could be a good shout.
 
thats how i was thinking suppose heat exchanger could be another possibility as well if copper ,dont know what they are made of on this boiler but would discount latter two suggestions until you done the sealer in system and bag on o/s rv pipe first
 
right all this diverter pin hole waffle,not the cause lads its simple THIS FAULT IS UNLIKELY TO BE THE BOILER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,you have a leak in the system,simple or as alpha man has asked you is there water coming out of your prv? and why do you have to vent your rads when you fill up? maybe because boiler lower than rads +leak need venting this in its self will cause pressure issues,the baxi 80 eco is probably the best and most reliable combi ever made you do not need a new boiler you need to find out were the leak in your system is
 
right all this diverter pin hole waffle,not the cause lads its simple THIS FAULT IS UNLIKELY TO BE THE BOILER!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!,you have a leak in the system,simple or as alpha man has asked you is there water coming out of your prv? and why do you have to vent your rads when you fill up? maybe because boiler lower than rads +leak need venting this in its self will cause pressure issues,the baxi 80 eco is probably the best and most reliable combi ever made you do not need a new boiler you need to find out were the leak in your system is

thanks for reply gasman, had an engineer out yesterday and he reduced the pressure inside the boiler with some device, looked like a thermometor, cant remember what it was called but he said the pressure measure was 14 something and he reduced it to ten (he said he couldnt reduce it further as it would affect hot water). He did this because when he switched boiler on he noticed the rads were becoming very hot quickly and then after a few mins the boiler was winding down (he told me this is normal) however he mentioned that it should wind down quietly and mine was shuddering off. So he reduced pressure inside and we noticed that this time the boiler was staying on for longer and not shutting off so abruptly, a lot smoother.

he also suggested getting some thermostat controls to put on rads and using some leak stopped in system. I am going to keep an eye on pressure over next few days and see how i get on, really hope he had sorted it though.
 
so the gas pressure was to high then ?

yes he reduced the gas pressure from 14 to 11 i think, this has helped a lot, however downside is the hot water is no longer as hot as it used to be, i dont mind but the missus is complaining so im going to try get him out later today and put it up to 12, do u think this is wise??

seems only option as hot water dial is already on max...
 
If the gas pressure is too high, eventually it will scale the heat exchangers and pipework etc, what should the GP's be on this boiler? and it should only be set to the maximum setting as advised in the MI and data badge!

They're must be a underlying problem why the HW isnt hot enough, or your just used to it now being over gasssed and so the HW is too hot.

Have you found where the pressure loss was?
 
If the gas pressure is too high, eventually it will scale the heat exchangers and pipework etc, what should the GP's be on this boiler? and it should only be set to the maximum setting as advised in the MI and data badge!

They're must be a underlying problem why the HW isnt hot enough, or your just used to it now being over gasssed and so the HW is too hot.

Have you found where the pressure loss was?

the GP should be 11, i spoke to the engineer a few mins ago and he advised me that its not recommended to turn the GP up as it is now at its correct level. cant think what the underlying prob may be, hes tied up today but did say he will give me a ring in a bit to give me some tips as to try get the HW temp up.

Pressure seems to be okay now touch wood, engineer said not to worry if it falls a bit now and then as long as it dont drop under 0.75 bar, so il just keep an eye on it for now i guess. No other visible signs of a leak...
 
think your engineer should look at the data badge or m,i,s max working gas pressure on a baxi 80 eco is 13mb ,unless of course this is a baxi 80 eco he max pressure is 10.2 mb
 
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