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armyash

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Need to replace this stopcock.

Best way of doing it?

Top of the fitting is ok, I have pipe to play with. The bottom of the picture, the stopcock there doesn't have a nut and olive. It is flat with a fibre washer. I think that's lead pipe also. Why is there that 'bulb' shaped pipe below the stopcock?

Couldn't change it yesterday as i only had normal 15 and 22 stopcocks on. Any help would be great need to get it ordered today. thanks
 
Turn off water outside, cut the pipe back below the bulb using hacksaw and clean it up with a file.

Get hold of a lead lock fitting to convert to copper and fit new 15mm or 22mm stopcock. There's a few different sizes available, I usually keep a good selection on the van. Without seeing the bottom of the pipe I'd say a 7lb fitting is usually the best one to start with.

The bulb is formed when the lead was worked over the tail of the stopcock. I can't say I know the exact process as lead work is a bit before my times
 
If it's just a new valve then leave the old one on and put new one on the 15mm pipe.
 
As said if the valves fully open and not causing a issues stick on above lead pipe doesn't like being played with too much
 
Agree with all above, as long as the gland etc is ok on the existing valve leave it in and put a new one above it, the dome is a wiped joint
The old way of connecting lead to copper or a brass tail
Lead is very workable when its new, tends to crack open once its moved after 40 odd years
Got that T-shirt
 
the union below the valve is probably 1/2 inch just like a tap connector so any 15mm compresion fitting will screw into it might need plenty of tape or a washer on it
 
Just change the moving parts/ the guts. Prestex normally fit the old ones, use a lamp to heat it up if it's in tight.
 
cheers guys some food for thought.

I have already had the stopcock off and there's not chance of changing the guts on it, it will not budge. It doesn't shut off fully and the customer had someone out from the water board to test the water and he told them to get it replaced as it was not working. She reckons it was leaking but it wasn't when i was there, she is the type that even if it's ok to fit a new one above she will insist it's removed.

Thing with sticking a normal compression joint on that nut is, the comps are shamfered sort of to take an olive where as this is sitting on a flat/smooth edge.

i spoke to the company we order parts from and they didn't have much idea, i asked a couple of lads and they said lead lock if there's enough pipe to play with down below. Thing with that is, where the 'bulb' sits is at the back of a kitchen unit so it's going to be very difficult to get to it to cut and fit a lead lock.

I thought it was 1/2 inch and was going over it in my mind today to fit a male iron but i need to get it right, i can't call the office and tell them to book it in again after another visit. I didn't have any bits on the van to complete it yesterday and need to get ordered tomorrow. Going to city plumbing in the morning and see what they suggest also.

Thanks alot for the replies so far.
 
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I'd go with a 1/2" male iron to conex 15mm use a fibre washer on the bottom and some thread paste ptfe or locktite on the threads and hope for the best
 
Spoke to people today who we go to for parts and she said she was talking to people last night and they all said 95% of plumbers wouldn't touch, they would walk away. Looks like i'm in the 5%. Can't wait :D
 
What's the best fibre washer to use, i have a feeling one of those red ones won't be man enough for it. Are there better ones i can use for this?
 
What's the best fibre washer to use, i have a feeling one of those red ones won't be man enough for it. Are there better ones i can use for this?

Ash, dude. You can't rely on stuff like that. If it all goes **** up how would your public liability view it?
Bang a lead lock on it, it's designed for the job, and if it's fitted properly. You'd be covered, public liability wise.
 
i doubt the union will be flat faced ash theres normally a shoulder with a washer same as a tap con , just wrap it with plenty of tape it will hold trust me
 
i doubt the union will be flat faced ash theres normally a shoulder with a washer same as a tap con , just wrap it with plenty of tape it will hold trust me

As soon as it's booked back in through the office, i'll be going for it. :)
 
Ash, dude. You can't rely on stuff like that. If it all goes **** up how would your public liability view it?
Bang a lead lock on it, it's designed for the job, and if it's fitted properly. You'd be covered, public liability wise.

Leo what make of lead lock do you use the ones I bought around here from merchants don't seem good quality used a utc last time
 
Leo what make of lead lock do you use the ones I bought around here from merchants don't seem good quality used a utc last time

I use the brass ones, tbh I haven't used one for years. I don't tell anyone I can do plumbing.
 
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