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Discuss Boiler not staying on in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

Diverter valve: Port A to CH, Port B to HW. Is yours incorrect?. Also check arrow on pump body is pointing upwards. Are you getting water out of the two manual bottle vents.
What is the red valve to the right of the pump??

View attachment 62965
I have sort of, with limited knowledge, deduced that it is back to front but it does work. (Sticker displays opposite of what it should). I'd imagine the two wires being a certain way around in the junction box switches the instruction to the motor?

Red valve, I believe, is a bypass to control pressure?

I thunk the pump it knackered tbh, surely the thing should be going around if its plugged in?
 
You would imagine the pump should keep running alright except knackered, a long shot but maybe check the pump motor end cable, this has quick (L-N_E) connections, remove the lead and check these, I have seen one giving intermittent pump running due to poor connection.
Also check ABV (automatic by pass valve setting).
Check label on Diverter valve to ensure its a mid position valve and not just a diverter valve.

1629051578530.png
 
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Pump has arrived, I will fit this evening after work.

As its out I might aswell change the washers in there. Are they all the same for Central heating pumps?

I. E will these ones do?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/arcti...L9jHqMe33Xi7i94d7rUaAj6YEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
Pump has arrived, I will fit this evening after work.

As its out I might aswell change the washers in there. Are they all the same for Central heating pumps?

I. E will these ones do?

https://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/arcti...L9jHqMe33Xi7i94d7rUaAj6YEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Rubber type gaskets are normally supplied with any pump, don't like the fiber type as can eventually leak/draw in air.

Is it another Alpha 2L you purchased?.
 
Rubber type gaskets are normally supplied with any pump, don't like the fiber type as can eventually leak/draw in air.

Is it another Alpha 2L you purchased?.
Yes,

I'll be honest, I bought a reconditioned one for now. There is potential that it will be switched to a combi in the next year or so. I just don't have the cash right now to do that
 
Just swap the head then 4 Allen bolts and done
 
Just to conclude incase it can help anyone in need in the future. It all seems to be up and running now. Boiler been on 10 minutes. Pump is clearly moving water. 3 port is working as it should be.

So it does seem to have been the pump had died.

Thanks for everybody's advice.
As a matter of interest, what mode/speed have you set the pump to?.
 
If its 4 presses of the button then that appears to be constant speed 2, (3M), which LED is illuminated?.

Also good to see you are able to get a reconditioned unit as mechanically, bearings etc these should easily give a life of 10/15 years, seems a shame to throw them away after 5 years or so if the electronics can be replaced. A few Dab Evosta 4-7M pumps around here are still running away after > 8 years.
 
If its 4 presses of the button then that appears to be constant speed 2, (3M), which LED is illuminated?.

Also good to see you are able to get a reconditioned unit as mechanically, bearings etc these should easily give a life of 10/15 years, seems a shame to throw them away after 5 years or so if the electronics can be replaced. A few Dab Evosta 4-7M pumps around here are still running away after > 8 years.
4th light on. 7 presses? The maximum it will go I think.
 
4th LED on from the left is PP1( 6 presses?) which is only 2M reducing which IMO is far too low for the whole system.
5th LED on from the left is PP2( 7 presses?) which is 3M reducing and if this is where its set to and your system is happy then OK but if not I would suggest 6th LED from the left (1 press?) CP1 which is a constant 3M and should satisfy most of your needs.

1629233535384.png
 
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