You can buy an olive splitter.
It will split the olive without damaging the pipe. Monument do one that looks similar to a metal clamp. But the cost of buying it would pay a plumber.
Bidirectional means just that. You can have it on the flow or return side so water can pass through it into the rad or out of the rad through the valve and they will still give you heat control.
Sounds like you will have a two pipe system a flow and a return carcass. Each rad will have a tail linked to the flow and one to the return meaning that should you shut off or remove a rad the hot water will still circulate to the other radiators. What you describe is a one pipe system and it’s best not to over complicate things with talking about that
You can buy an olive splitter.
It will split the olive without damaging the pipe. Monument do one that looks similar to a metal clamp. But the cost of buying it would pay a plumber.
Ahh I see. yes judging by the pump layout it would appear you are correct (as you already know).
Thanks for the share. I haven't quite yet worked out why this system allows for omni directional in and out or bi flow, but I do now understand how the water is carried past the radiator.
I think I was getting hung up on the idea that, if what regulates the radiator is on the exit valve then how does it regulate the radiator with a uni directional flow but it makes sense now.
Even if the water flows one way, the valve is measuring the room temp and the will shut the water off at the end not the beginning.
In effect the same difference just at a later stage in the process but with the same result.
And of course, the valve being bi directional means it doesn't matter which way the water passes through it, which then begs the question (for the more nerdy person), what made a vale uni directional in the first place. I would have though they all would be bi directional but obviously not.
That isn’t the one I meant, although it will do the job. My mistake, - I should have said Rothenberger olive splitter, which looks like a little vice and I prefer it, plus it works on 15mm and 22mm and 28mm.
But the Monument tool will also work, but limited to one pipe size.
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Thanks Best. I've popped it in my basket for when it comes to changing valves.
I would point out though that it only does 15mm and up, not under, so no 10mm etc.
It certainly seems better to have one of those than a purely dedicated width as you say.
Im also looking to move some pipes around. Could you suggest a cheap but good blow torch system. I see you can get heads that screw on to cans but the heads vary widely in price.
Thanks Best. I've popped it in my basket for when it comes to changing valves.
I would point out though that it only does 15mm and up, not under, so no 10mm etc.
It certainly seems better to have one of those than a purely dedicated width as you say.
Im also looking to move some pipes around. Could you suggest a cheap but good blow torch system. I see you can get heads that screw on to cans but the heads vary widely in price.
Yes I have I'm into Arduino's and robotics. Im also aware of how to prepare a copper pipe and how to join them using solder and osmoses. If i;ve got the correct term, i.e allowing the solder to be sucked up into the joint by itself.
I'd probably do a test piece first and put it under some sort of pressure to check for leaks in my method but other than that I don't see it being as much of a problem as say not flooding the house (i.e correctly draining the system or leaving a bleed valve open on refiling).
Thanks Best. I've popped it in my basket for when it comes to changing valves.
I would point out though that it only does 15mm and up, not under, so no 10mm etc.
It certainly seems better to have one of those than a purely dedicated width as you say.
Im also looking to move some pipes around. Could you suggest a cheap but good blow torch system. I see you can get heads that screw on to cans but the heads vary widely in price.
I am in the Best place.
Northern Ireland.
To answer your question of what would be a good cheap blow torch, - truth is you probably need to pay a bit more to get a "good" torch.
The Rothenberger Surefire 2 is what most plumbers recommend. It is reliable and produces a small powerful flame and doesn't flare up. Probably cost you about £50 for the bare torch. Or you can buy it in a Rothenberger choice of plumbing tool kits for little more, making that a better option in my opinion.