Cast iron rad tails affixing

[rpm]

Nope correct direction. Maybe I am just putting too much on the thread

Depends on what you mean by bunch up then I guess. Applied in the correct rotation the chosen product is compressed into the thread and any sealant is pushed outwards.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Cross hatch the threads with a hack saw blade not too deep .5mm

 

[Bogart]

I have marked the threads as shown on various videos including one from Loctite . Attached are 2 photos first one is of Loctite55 second one is Boss White and hemp.

 

[rpm]

Look I appreciate that you are diy however both are a mess and I'm not convinced that the products used were applied in the correct rotation.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

loctite one is spot on

hemp looks to be a bit too much paste but doesnt matter

to clean them up carefully go round the thread as close to the rad as possible and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade

 

[rpm]

loctite one is spot on

hemp looks to be a bit too much paste but doesnt matter

to clean them up carefully go round the thread as close to the rad as possible and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade

Are you serious Shaun, would you be happy to put your name on the ptfe joint?

 

[Bogart]

Look I appreciate that you are diy however both are a mess and I'm not convinced that the products used were applied in the correct rotation.

Well I do know my clockwise from my anticlockwise. A mess? If I exhibited them at the Tate Modern would be worth a fortune.

 

[Bogart]

loctite one is spot on

hemp looks to be a bit too much paste but doesnt matter

to clean them up carefully go round the thread as close to the rad as possible and cut the excess off with a hacksaw blade

I was going to trim them off with a stanley knife when they have been in use a while.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Are you serious Shaun, would you be happy to put your name on the ptfe joint?

yes as thats how boss white and hemp goes

will give you an idea but he doesnt use enough hemp for my liking

 

[rpm]

yes as thats how boss white and hemp goes

will give you an idea but he doesnt use enough hemp for my liking

Cheers but don`t need a leason, done 1/8 bsp to 10 or 12" pipe joints over the years, only on the bigger stuff in places like Battersea power station would they be acceptable.
PS I did say the ptfe joint.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Cheers but don`t need a leason, done 1/8 bsp to 10 or 12" pipe joints over the years, only on the bigger stuff in places like Battersea power station would they be acceptable.

you should know then, they need cleaning afterwards and then they look sweet as pie

 

[rpm]

You still saying the ptfe one is "Sweet as pie", how can somebody make a mess like that with a roll of tape is beyond me. And yes a little brass wire brush will make it sweet.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You still saying the ptfe one is "Sweet as pie", how can somebody make a mess like that with a roll of tape is beyond me. And yes a little brass wire brush will make it sweet.

Because it's loctite 55 not tape

 

[rpm]

my error and true, still a ruddy mess, should only be one tail.

 

[Bogart]

Opened a bag of worms hereMight not be the neatest looking, at present but after trimming will be fine. Both types are holding at 5bar on test, did out of interest, as my system runs at 1 bar max I am happy they will be fine.

 

[CHRISX]

Hello again Bogart,

Good advice from Member Shaun - that process is known in the Trade as `scratching the joints`.

But as You have such a nice finish on the Radiators I would suggest very carefully removing the excess Loctite 55 and Hemp using a Stanley knife / Craft knife / Knife blade instead of a hacksaw blade for less chance of scratching the paint / finish.

Could You post a photo of the `Test Rig` that you are using - I assume to pump up the Radiators individually with Gauges ?

Chris

 

[Bogart]

Here are photos of the test rig. I only decided to make something like this as earlier this year I fitted 2 cast iron rads and one leaked from one of the sectional joints. Turned out the fault was a distorted washer, had been installed badly on manufacture. I now test all all sectional rads I install aluminium ones also. I have 23 rads in my property all of which need replacing. I have done nearly half so a long way to go. I usually test the rads in the garage but with cast irons I like a retest in situ as in pictures. It gives piece of mind when installing that they are in good nick regarding integrity.

 

[Bogart]

Now another question about rads. I have been given a steel column radiator made by Acova. It did not come
with any fixings. As it weighs some 50kg minus water I thought floor mounting would be more sensible. I therefore obtained 3 feet as per the attached photo.
Two questions 1. Why is there only one fixing hole in the foot ?
2. Which way does one affix it to the floor the screw hole to the front or rear?

 

[CHRISX]

Hello Bogart,

Please don`t think that I am patronising You regarding this - my motive for asking about the Testing and my comments is for Safety reasons.

I am also thinking of future readers of this thread:

Are You testing with Compressed Air or Water and then pressurising with an Air compressor - I could not tell for certain from the photos but the hose looks like an Air hose ?

The reason why I ask is that testing with Compressed Air to 5 Bar can be very dangerous if there was any sudden leak or a push fit fitting blew off - or if a less experienced person than yourself disconnected the Test rig without relieving the pressure first.

A sudden leak at 5 Bar / approx. 74 PSI of Air Pressure is high enough to Blind or in fact have Air bubbles pushed through the skin into your veins - a possible `Killer` situation if they reached the Brain.

Air Testing to anything like this pressure is definitely not recommended because compared to pressurising Water the volume of Air that can be compressed is very large - hence the possible severe injuries that can be caused if anything goes wrong.

Regarding the Column Radiator `Feet` fixing I would put the screws at the back so that they are not immediately visible when looking at the Radiator.

I guess that there is only one screw hole because when the Radiator is on top of the Feet because it is so heavy the Feet are definitely not going anywhere - the screw is just to hold them in position especially when the Rad is being lifted on.

I am guessing that You will be painting the `Feet` to try and get a similar colour to the Radiators ?

You obviously know that you will also need the Radiator wall fixings which go through the Rads between the Columns and fix to the wall to prevent the Radiators falling forward or backwards ?

Chris

 

[SimonG]

I prefer the actual acova feet but more expensive.

i would want the screw at the back and maybe drill a second one.

 

[Bogart]

Hello Bogart,

Please don`t think that I am patronising You regarding this - my motive for asking about the Testing and my comments is for Safety reasons.

I am also thinking of future readers of this thread:

Are You testing with Compressed Air or Water and then pressurising with an Air compressor - I could not tell for certain from the photos but the hose looks like an Air hose ?

The reason why I ask is that testing with Compressed Air to 5 Bar can be very dangerous if there was any sudden leak or a push fit fitting blew off - or if a less experienced person than yourself disconnected the Test rig without relieving the pressure first.

A sudden leak at 5 Bar / approx. 74 PSI of Air Pressure is high enough to Blind or in fact have Air bubbles pushed through the skin into your veins - a possible `Killer` situation if they reached the Brain.

Air Testing to anything like this pressure is definitely not recommended because compared to pressurising Water the volume of Air that can be compressed is very large - hence the possible severe injuries that can be caused if anything goes wrong.

Regarding the Column Radiator `Feet` fixing I would put the screws at the back so that they are not immediately visible when looking at the Radiator.

I guess that there is only one screw hole because when the Radiator is on top of the Feet because it is so heavy the Feet are definitely not going anywhere - the screw is just to hold them in position especially when the Rad is being lifted on.

I am guessing that You will be painting the `Feet` to try and get a similar colour to the Radiators ?

You obviously know that you will also need the Radiator wall fixings which go through the Rads between the Columns and fix to the wall to prevent the Radiators falling forward or backwards ?

Chris

Hello Bogart,

Please don`t think that I am patronising You regarding this - my motive for asking about the Testing and my comments is for Safety reasons.

I am also thinking of future readers of this thread:

Are You testing with Compressed Air or Water and then pressurising with an Air compressor - I could not tell for certain from the photos but the hose looks like an Air hose ?

The reason why I ask is that testing with Compressed Air to 5 Bar can be very dangerous if there was any sudden leak or a push fit fitting blew off - or if a less experienced person than yourself disconnected the Test rig without relieving the pressure first.

A sudden leak at 5 Bar / approx. 74 PSI of Air Pressure is high enough to Blind or in fact have Air bubbles pushed through the skin into your veins - a possible `Killer` situation if they reached the Brain.

Air Testing to anything like this pressure is definitely not recommended because compared to pressurising Water the volume of Air that can be compressed is very large - hence the possible severe injuries that can be caused if anything goes wrong.

Regarding the Column Radiator `Feet` fixing I would put the screws at the back so that they are not immediately visible when looking at the Radiator.

I guess that there is only one screw hole because when the Radiator is on top of the Feet because it is so heavy the Feet are definitely not going anywhere - the screw is just to hold them in position especially when the Rad is being lifted on.

I am guessing that You will be painting the `Feet` to try and get a similar colour to the Radiators ?

You obviously know that you will also need the Radiator wall fixings which go through the Rads between the Columns and fix to the wall to prevent the Radiators falling forward or backwards ?

Chris

 

[CHRISX]

Hello again Bogart,

Your latest message has no text from You - just my previous message quoted twice.

Chris

 

[Bogart]

Not sure why the 2 entries above appeared. I respect your views re the testing, always best to err on the side of caution. My method is to fill the rad with water with the orange handle valve closed. Then gradually open it once the compressor is ready. Increasing the pressure in 1 bar increments until I have the desired test pressure then close the orange valve. My opinion is then that there is actually very little actual air in the rad. As the cast iron rad are rated at 6bar but have supposedly been tested at 10 bar I only keep the 5 bar on for about 30 minutes. I will then drop it to 2 bar and leave overnight. Testing with water does help in indicating where, if any ,the leaks are.
Regarding the feet they are white to match the radiator. This is not the same rads as I have been testing.

 

[Bogart]

I prefer the actual acova feet but more expensive.

i would want the screw at the back and maybe drill a second one.

I thought screw at the back from an aesthetic point of view . Though in this position the radiator could more easily slip forward as the taller portion of the support is to the rear. I might actually put them on reversed ie screw to the front so the radiator is in a way pushed towards the wall in my mind supporting it better. Then maybe cover the screwhead with a white cap. Acova suggest 6 wall mounting brackets for my size of rad but I would not be happy it just being wall mounted as it weighs in at 78Kg when empty!

 

[SimonG]

I thought screw at the back from an aesthetic point of view . Though in this position the radiator could more easily slip forward as the taller portion of the support is to the rear. I might actually put them on reversed ie screw to the front so the radiator is in a way pushed towards the wall in my mind supporting it better. Then maybe cover the screwhead with a white cap.

I did think this once I had posted. The acova feet just slip over.