Core drills

[The Goose]

I have been using my sds drill and some old core cutters for core holes but I am getting bored with that now as it seems like such hard work!
I have read some of the posts on here and the Marcrist seems to be the one to get. But which one?
Is the ddm1 any good?
Does the ddm3 have hammer action?
If not does it not go with the percussion cores like the pc850?
Or are the ccu850 type a better bet?
So what is the best to get?
Do I need a new machine or just new cutters?
Or a different make entirely?

Usually the biggest hole is 5" for flues, soil etc and I often seem to do 28-30mm for sleeves for pipework etc and the usual waste pipes etc.
A firm I used to work for gave us the Makita drill which seemed a nice bit of kit but I think I have only ever used cheap core cutters as Sometimes that was a struggle.
Thanks in advance

 

[AlexGas]

Core drilling - it’s all about the speed and the power. I got myself a second hand HILTI at the end. It’s a beast.

 

[woodytheplumber]

I have the Milwaukee with the soft hammer it's amazing I use that with just cheep tooolstation cores and it flys through!!

 

[AlexGas]

I have the Milwaukee with the soft hammer it's amazing I use that with just cheep tooolstation cores and it flys through!!

I don’t think it’s a good idea to use hammer action when drilling with a diamond core drill. OK, I had a cheap drill in the past and this particular wall was well strong. I did have a go at it with the hammer action too, gentle or not, I’ve killed the core drill bit. It’s all about speed and power, no hammer.

 

[SimonG]

Def no hammer on a core bit, rips the teeth off For me its one of those jobs that you need a decent drill (clutch is a must) and decent core bits.

 

[Paulplumb]

I have been using the Sparky drill and it is hopeless, After reading lots of threads on this forum about core drills I opted to buy a DDM2 but they are no longer made. Sparky sell there own version of the DDM2 but I was reluctant to buy another Sparky product. I did not want to spend a small fortune so the DDM3 was out. I spoke to a fella a core drill city and he could no speak highly enough of the DDM1 but he was selling it. The DDM1 has soft hammer for use with the pc850 core bits. I have yet to use the DDM1 in anger. The build quality does look a little suspect. I hope it performs better than it looks. I may have made the wrong decision.

 

[gasmanrob]

I hate my ddm1 worst tool I have ever purchased.

its ok on speed 1 but ramp it up to 2 and the clutch will kick in too early and it's not like it's worn that's how it was straight out of the box! Really disappointed as I was getting the ddm2 but they stopped producing it. Reluctant to get the milwaukee as it looks exactly the same drill as the ddm1.

The hammer drill is a soft setting and is designed for percussion course pcux I think they are.

my old 8406 out stripped the performance of the marcrist

 

[Paulplumb]

I hate my ddm1 worst tool I have ever purchased.

its ok on speed 1 but ramp it up to 2 and the clutch will kick in too early and it's not like it's worn that's how it was straight out of the box! Really disappointed as I was getting the ddm2 but they stopped producing it. Reluctant to get the milwaukee as it looks exactly the same drill as the ddm1.

The hammer drill is a soft setting and is designed for percussion course pcux I think they are.

my old 8406 out stripped the performance of the marcrist

You trying to upset me Rob? :bigcry:

 

[Roger Welton]

Interesting to hear, It'll be a ddm3 for me when my current one gives up the ghost then.

 

[gasmanrob]

You trying to upset me Rob? :bigcry:

Nah I think I expected too much from it after all the hype of the ddm2 and 3

 

[Paulplumb]

Interesting to hear, It'll be a ddm3 for me when my current one gives up the ghost then.

I can do you a deal on a slightly used sparky :001_9898: and a brand new DDM1

 

[kris]

It's common for tradesman to use hammer drills but using the hammer action wears the teeth down fast, the makita 8406c is a cracker, very fast and lightweight ,

Makita UK

 

[gasmanrob]

I'd leave the 8406c and get the basic 8406. Most hire shops dropped the 8406c as the clutch wears out fast

 

[woodytheplumber]

I don’t think it’s a good idea to use hammer action when drilling with a diamond core drill. OK, I had a cheap drill in the past and this particular wall was well strong. I did have a go at it with the hammer action too, gentle or not, I’ve killed the core drill bit. It’s all about speed and power, no hammer.

its specifically designed to be used on hammer try Google it I was wary at first as usually a hammer on cores Is a no no but over a year on no teeth missing

 

[kris]

I'd leave the 8406c and get the basic 8406. Most hire shops dropped the 8406c as the clutch wears out fast

Your right with the clutch rob I'm onto my second as first one the clutch went, I was gonna price to see how expensive a clutch would be ,

 

[The Goose]

Thanks for the replies guys.
Got a lot to think about here.

I have looked at the Milwaukee one but it's not far off the price of a Ddm3 which seems to get good reviews.
Does anyone use the percussion cores from Marcrist?

 

[lame plumber]

gave my sparky ddm3 equivalent a good beating today, 18 inches plus of stone n rubble and brick facings. Only issue was the "free" 110v transformer wasnt upto it and had to go get my big one fm home. Otherwise it only took over 2 hours of constant grinding to break out and one replacement core bit! seems stone n rubble isnt on the list of core bit materials

 

[Nostrum]

I've got the Makita and it's brilliant. I use percussion too, eats most bricks and I've seen no difference in wear, if it did it would more than pay for itself in time saved. I can go through most cavity walls in less than 5 minutes. The clutch is excellent too, happy to use it one handed as the clutch works very smoothly.

Just about out the only Makita gear ive been really pleased with.

 

[plumben]

I've got the Makita and it's brilliant. I use percussion too, eats most bricks and I've seen no difference in wear, if it did it would more than pay for itself in time saved. I can go through most cavity walls in less than 5 minutes. The clutch is excellent too, happy to use it one handed as the clutch works very smoothly.

Just about out the only Makita gear ive been really pleased with.

We've got the Makita its the only Makita drill id buy again if it broke but that's my preference

 

[lame plumber]

my arthritic wrist has given me gip all day, seems coring stone n rubble put the clutch, drill and me to test. I look forward to finding a house to work on that just has 2 courses to cut through, seems they dont exist on my patch.

 

[gasmanrob]

Lame why don't you invest in a bolt on unit? Then all you need to to is wind a lever in and let the drill do the work ok it's an investment but protection of yourself plus you seem to get a lot of these stone walls. Look what you've done to get baffles out of oil boilers regarding your rig...

 

[lame plumber]

the wall I cored on friday wouldnt have been suitable to get a rig attached imho, they are great on flat concrete on the ground but a beggar to attach to an unstable victorian wall. not sure where you coming from with oil boiler baffles?

 

[Nostrum]

the wall I cored on friday wouldnt have been suitable to get a rig attached imho, they are great on flat concrete on the ground but a beggar to attach to an unstable victorian wall. not sure where you coming from with oil boiler baffles?

Cores are no good for this sort of wall.


I used to dig these sort of walls out by hand in half the time. Once you've broken through the first build up, dig all the crap out with a long cold chisel and with your hands in there. Then just pop a hole through the last bit with a metre long bit and lump hammer the outside in. Jobs a goodun!

I used to fit oil boilers non stop down in Cornwall and this method worked best every time.

 

[lame plumber]

Cores are no good for this sort of wall.


I used to dig these sort of walls out by hand in half the time. Once you've broken through the first build up, dig all the crap out with a long cold chisel and with your hands in there. Then just pop a hole through the last bit with a metre long bit and lump hammer the outside in. Jobs a goodun!

I used to fit oil boilers non stop down in Cornwall and this method worked best every time.

good in theory, but round here you'd end up with a new window if not a door! Any movement and the whole wall starts to collapse round your ears, having tried all methods, slow n steady with a core n drill is the only way I have found to work sensibly. I gave up hammering out huge rocks years ago when I first converted my place into apartments.

 

[gasmanrob]

the wall I cored on friday wouldnt have been suitable to get a rig attached imho, they are great on flat concrete on the ground but a beggar to attach to an unstable victorian wall. not sure where you coming from with oil boiler baffles?

Thought you had a rig with a hoist for removing the plates out of Aga's due to a bad back