R
realstokebloke
A bit of help would be very much appreciated with a diverter valve on an open vented / conventional boiler system please:
It is a 'Landis & Gyr" one - no obvious model number / type visible.
As I understand it, on the indicator, A = CH & B = HW and on most, mine included, there's a position in the middle (denoted as a triangle on mine) that has it open for both CH & HW.
I think mine must be stuck on that (open for both).
It is mounted vertically on pipe work so that A is to the bottom & B is uppermost & 'both' (locked) is in the middle on the indicator. On mine, the paddle just hangs down, limp and doesn't really seem to latch or engage in the notch designed to lock it off as open.
As it stands, calling for either CH or HW on the control unit fires up the boiler, runs the pump.
During the winter when it has been calling for CH & HW, the indicator will drop to and stay at A during any 'on' (switched on at the controls) period and so usually starts there when the switch calls for either CH or HW again without me physically correcting it.
When 'off' (switch not calling for either CH or HW) you can manually (push) the indicator up to B (HW) which should, in theory, just heat the water(?). In fact you only have to push it up part way and the spring mechanism actually kicks in and takes it all the way up to B on it's own as it were.
However, with the indicator pushed up to B, when you call for just for HW, it immediately moves the switch all the way down to A. This heats the rads and the HW.
Again with the indicator pushed up to B, when you call for just CH on the switch, it stays on B, however this heats the radiators but does not let any of the HW flow into the tank? (Odd as I thought The paddle on B indicated HW only?)
Which means that as far as I can see, I can get CH only, (paddle indicator on B & calling for HW)? Or I can get CH & HW (paddle indicator on A & calling for HW) but not just HW?
So is it logical to assume that whatever position the indicator is in, it is stuck or unable to move through all it's positions in some way ?
So:
1. Can the actual valve (I.e. Inside) be stuck or moving independently of the indicator paddle itself, which clearly moves between the two / three?
2. Can it be released to move again or is it a replacement job? And if it's a release of some sort is it a DIY or a plumber ? (Easy to do?) it has a pressed steel cap over the end of the valve furthest away from the pipe as it were, does this come off & allow access to turn the actual valve manually?
3. In the meantime, now it's warmer, while we want HW but not always CH, is there a way of keeping it open for just HW?
(I tried setting the indicator up to B (HW) and wedging the indicator - and hopefully the valve - up to stay at B & calling for just HW on the switch but this just runs the pump & heats the radiators ? The pipe off the diverted valve into the bottom of the immersion tank stays cold, so obviously it's not providing HW. Remove the mechanical wedge and the indicator drops back to A but is clearly heating both the radiators and filling the HW tank ( the same pipe heats up)?
Thanks.
It is a 'Landis & Gyr" one - no obvious model number / type visible.
As I understand it, on the indicator, A = CH & B = HW and on most, mine included, there's a position in the middle (denoted as a triangle on mine) that has it open for both CH & HW.
I think mine must be stuck on that (open for both).
It is mounted vertically on pipe work so that A is to the bottom & B is uppermost & 'both' (locked) is in the middle on the indicator. On mine, the paddle just hangs down, limp and doesn't really seem to latch or engage in the notch designed to lock it off as open.
As it stands, calling for either CH or HW on the control unit fires up the boiler, runs the pump.
During the winter when it has been calling for CH & HW, the indicator will drop to and stay at A during any 'on' (switched on at the controls) period and so usually starts there when the switch calls for either CH or HW again without me physically correcting it.
When 'off' (switch not calling for either CH or HW) you can manually (push) the indicator up to B (HW) which should, in theory, just heat the water(?). In fact you only have to push it up part way and the spring mechanism actually kicks in and takes it all the way up to B on it's own as it were.
However, with the indicator pushed up to B, when you call for just for HW, it immediately moves the switch all the way down to A. This heats the rads and the HW.
Again with the indicator pushed up to B, when you call for just CH on the switch, it stays on B, however this heats the radiators but does not let any of the HW flow into the tank? (Odd as I thought The paddle on B indicated HW only?)
Which means that as far as I can see, I can get CH only, (paddle indicator on B & calling for HW)? Or I can get CH & HW (paddle indicator on A & calling for HW) but not just HW?
So is it logical to assume that whatever position the indicator is in, it is stuck or unable to move through all it's positions in some way ?
So:
1. Can the actual valve (I.e. Inside) be stuck or moving independently of the indicator paddle itself, which clearly moves between the two / three?
2. Can it be released to move again or is it a replacement job? And if it's a release of some sort is it a DIY or a plumber ? (Easy to do?) it has a pressed steel cap over the end of the valve furthest away from the pipe as it were, does this come off & allow access to turn the actual valve manually?
3. In the meantime, now it's warmer, while we want HW but not always CH, is there a way of keeping it open for just HW?
(I tried setting the indicator up to B (HW) and wedging the indicator - and hopefully the valve - up to stay at B & calling for just HW on the switch but this just runs the pump & heats the radiators ? The pipe off the diverted valve into the bottom of the immersion tank stays cold, so obviously it's not providing HW. Remove the mechanical wedge and the indicator drops back to A but is clearly heating both the radiators and filling the HW tank ( the same pipe heats up)?
Thanks.
