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Discuss Drain valve problem in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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I used this once. A brand new self cutter and it ended in a world of pain, leaked like mad from under the wheel head, will never use again. Maybe i was unlucky but these dodgy diy things never have the best manufacturing quality which is why i always do as my previous post. At least the results are guaranteed even if custard has to pay a few quid more. I know the custard whos job it leaked on would rather i had done it this way.....

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Hahaha I've never used one, seen them though, they do look a little dodgy.
 
I've used one once to drain a system. You don't half have to make sure they are tightened up though before you cut through :)
 
ive not got a problem with anyone doing some diy if they have the aptitude to do it ,to be fair if common sense doesnt tell you how to deal with a dodgy drain of you probably dont have the right aptitude
 
i used a self cutter once few years ago and then had to use a hammer pretty sharpish to flatten pipe,never again since
 
open drain valve with tub underneath, aqua vac on tub, get it drained un sweat, fit a decent drain off :) job done £70 please
 
Best is right, whip it out nearly all the way, whack some thread tape on and do it up a couple turns, bing bang bosh job's a good'un.. No point fannying about, time is money. A couple of old towels around the floor and a shallow bowl (chinese takeaway tubs are ideal) As long as the end doesn't come right out your not going to flood the place, obviously make sure a hose is attached still!

Used self cutting tap's loads of times in the past. I once walked into a merchants and picked one up of the shelf, walked over to counter. Two blokes beside me said ' hah, we'll have to replace that in 6 months time they're rubbish' When I told it it was to drain a system with no drain off he said ' never thought of that'

They make them as purpose made drain off's now as well, i've even managed to get one on a 28mm pipe off a back boiler before, just used a bit 10mm copper hammered flat and 2 inch and half wood screws to make it bigger! Normally get about 4-5 cuts out of them before they start blunting off, never had an issue with one to be honest.

I normally leave them in and tell the customer to put a flower pot in front of it...... :hanged:
 
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Never had a problem with self cutters either, and would be an easy solution for the OP.
Have the cutting part already in the hole of the rubber seal before tightening the clamp. If you don't, when you tighten it up the rubber gets compressed and it's harder to get the cutter in, also cuts through some of the rubber which will make it leak on your next job.
 
aqua vac is the best £50 quid i have ever spent on plumbing tools saves me hours every week, had a discussion on here when i bought it, just got a cheap one from wickes, its a not to big about the same size as a henry and litterally saves me hours on drain downs, dripping pipes, rads, stops spillages, can change pumps when valves are passing to much for tubs to cope with. honestly if you havnt got one on your van get one! you wont look back!
 
I used this once. A brand new self cutter and it ended in a world of pain, leaked like mad from under the wheel head, will never use again.

i used a self cutter once few years ago and then had to use a hammer pretty sharpish to flatten pipe,never again since


I used the same one about 5 times in a row for testing pipework was frozen before cutting. On the 5th or 6th time something went wrong and it wouldn't seal around the pipe. Which obviously I only found out after cutting into. That was a rather wet and pulse-racing moment. Cutting live pipe and speedfit cap to the rescue. So my advice ...if using...probably use a fresh one each time and don't be tight like me.
 
I have a similar situation at the moment where the drain-off valve is leaking from around the valve screw. Luckily it's outside and most of the water does come out through the hose connection.

I will be draining down the system next week anyway. What is the best brass replacement compression (threaded) drain-off valve?

I have seen type A and type B - what is the difference between them?
 
I have a similar situation at the moment where the drain-off valve is leaking from around the valve screw. Luckily it's outside and most of the water does come out through the hose connection.

I will be draining down the system next week anyway. What is the best brass replacement compression (threaded) drain-off valve?

I have seen type A and type B - what is the difference between them?

Type A is the best as it has a seal at the spindle to help stop it leaking there when draining. Also the type A tends to be more substantial. Use the threaded 1/2" drain with a 1/2" female compression fitting, as it makes it easy to change the whole lot, should you ever need someday.
 
Thanks Best.

So these two are what I require?

http://www.tool station.com/shop/Plumbing/Valves/MT Cock Type A/d20/sd2696/p18837

18837.jpg 18837 (MT Cock Type A 1/2" Screw Shank - Heavy pattern)

http://www.tool station.com/shop/Plumbing/Compression/Compression Coupler Female/d20/sd2697/p77614

44045.jpg 77614 (Compression Coupler Female 15mm x 1/2")

They don't seem to sell single couplers at Toolstation though - only in packs.


Apologies to doitmyself for slightly hijacking the thread!
 
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Can't open those links, but a threaded type A drain & a 1/2 x 15mm female fitting ( assuming it is 15mm pipe ) is all you need. Why not buy them from local plumbing merchant?
Should mention that if you wanted a really good & fast drain, then use a gatevalve or lever valve instead. Dearer, but better. Put a piece of pipe with a stopend on end of it incase valve gets accidentally turned on.
 
Pictures just came up! Yes, that's the drain & fitting you normally need!
 
Can't open those links, but a threaded type A drain & a 1/2 x 15mm female fitting ( assuming it is 15mm pipe ) is all you need. Why not buy them from local plumbing merchant?
Should mention that if you wanted a really good & fast drain, then use a gatevalve or lever valve instead. Dearer, but better. Put a piece of pipe with a stopend on end of it incase valve gets accidentally turned on.

I have now also included the images from the website. For some reason, the Toolstation website is blocked on here. I have added a space (tool station) so the links won't work without removing the spaces!

It's easier looking for the parts on the Toolstation website and possibly cheaper than a plumber's merchant?

The gate/lever valve may be a good idea as I've read that the drain valves are prone to leaking due excessive heat. I can also see there being a need to drain/flush the system a few times in the near future.

Thanks.
 
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It's easier looking for the parts on the Toolstation website and possibly cheaper than a plumber's merchant?

The gate/lever valve may be a good idea as I've read that the drain valves are prone to leaking due excessive heat. I can also see there being a need to drain/flush the system a few times in the near future.

Thanks.

Plumbers merchant shouldn't charge much more than a couple of quid for both!
If you are going to drain/flush system later, then go with a full flow valve - lever preferably, as going to make life easy! What's a extra £2, when a lever valve drains full blast & lasts forever!
 
If you are going to drain/flush system later, then go with a full flow valve - lever preferably, as going to make life easy! What's a extra £2, when a lever valve drains full blast & lasts forever!

My only concern is whether a lever valve would withstand all outdoor weather conditions over time?

I was looking at the Pegler T Ball mini valves.
 
My only concern is whether a lever valve would withstand all outdoor weather conditions over time?

I was looking at the Pegler T Ball mini valves.

The valve body will withstand everything the weather does, except freezing, so obviously better if valve was inside & piped to outside. Lever valves- often female, can be used outside on oil tanks. Not sure if the lever on any of them won't rot with damp outside, but if they are a painted alloy, then usually last years. Those Pegler mini valves seem great to me & the small levers make them handy valves for any water pipes in a home.
 
Before I remove the old drain-off, are there any tricks for removing an old olive other than purchasing a removal tool or the hacksaw method?
 
Assuming the pipe wasn't strangled you can get it off by using a set of grips. Dont squeeze too hard and twist it back and forth

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Before I remove the old drain-off, are there any tricks for removing an old olive other than purchasing a removal tool or the hacksaw method?
Just carefully cut the olive at an angle ( usually easier ) with a junior hacksaw & use a fine, but not too small, slotted screwdriver to split the olive. Obviously try not to cut through to the pipe, so try to split olive well before you cut through it. Saves you buying an olive remover!
 
sorry i posted to the wrong thread
 
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