Emmeti manifold to new radiators.

[Dobbslc]

Hi I'm I've just joined and hope to gain some well needed knowledge! I'm replacing the old 1 pipe heating system in my house as its very old and full of leaks! We're putting down a solid wood floor so I don't want any joints under it that might fail!
I'm thinking of using the Emmeti manifold system for wall hung radiators but can't decide what pipe to use. I could use their own Gerpex pipe but its 16mm and I don't think it'll connect to "standard" rad valves or can I use 15mm pex pipe? Their tech guy that I spoke to said it had to be 15mm with a 1.7mm wall thickness, what 15mm pipe can I use?
Thanks!

 

[ShaunCorbs]

will connect to standard rad valves but will need adapters eg

Nut & Insert Adaptor 16x15mm

 

[king of pipes]

Make your own manifolds 28mm pipe and fittings and use 15mm copper kuterlux pipe to the rads all joins above ground sorted. Kop

 

[oz-plumber]

Whatever brand of manifold you use, use their pipe and fittings.
That way there should be no shortfall if an issue arises.
All pipe manufacturers will have fittings to connect onto radiator valves.
You don't want to be in a situation where you have a leak and the manufacturer states that their fittings are tested on their pipe, not anyone elses.
It would be very hard to prove the leak is from the fitting or the 'other branded' pipe

 

[Jerry]

I have had no problem using Emmetti manifolds, their 10mm compression fittings and JG Speedfit 10mm pipe.
Next time, I might try a different pipe which can bend to a tighter radius....but it was bloody cold when the pipe runs were being pulled...

Also, i really like the 'point to point' style manifold heating compared to what is usually fitted in the UK.

 

[Dobbslc]

Thanks guys, oz plumber & jerry would you think Emmeti make a trv that will take a Wiser / Nest / Hive smart thermostat?

 

[Jerry]

Not sure what you mean.

Emmetti make a few different types of manifold. The T1 manifold just distributes the water and the T2 allows you to control the water.

So a T1 would be good with a single thermostat to control the entire system I.e 1 zone

The T2 can be controlled by actuators and you could therefore make each loop a zone. Great for multi-zone.

I have used the T1 to control a single floors in large houses with each floor have a single thermostat.

I have used the T2 to control the temperature in each room independently with (full) smart home controls.

I hope this helps.

 

[Dobbslc]

I was thinking of using the T1 with smart thermostatic rad valves from Wiser/Drayton.

 

[Jerry]

I was thinking of using the T1 with smart thermostatic rad valves from Wiser/Drayton.

That should work

 

[Dobbslc]

I've priced it all up and while not cheap it's not much more than copper pipes and much cheaper than using 15mm coils of copper!
My only worry is the PEX AL PEX Pope isn't really rodent proof! Any ideas on protecting it?
Thanks for all the replies by the way, helping the enemy (sparks)

 

[Jerry]

I've priced it all up and while not cheap it's not much more than copper pipes and much cheaper than using 15mm coils of copper!
My only worry is the PEX AL PEX Pope isn't really rodent proof! Any ideas on protecting it?
Thanks for all the replies by the way, helping the enemy (sparks)

Get some cats.

I am also a sparky!

The price is similar but the labour less. Get yourself and angled drill and a nice 13mm wood drill and get drilling. Don't forget the regs surrounding drill holes through joists. Finally, the pipes pull easier when all the holes line up. You are going to want to spend a bit of time marking before drilling.

The next time I do this system, I will be looking to use the buteline pipes and fitting. This is because they are sealed internally I.e pulling JG pipes through joists etc can scratch the hell or of them. This can make it hard to get a good seal because JG seals externally. Also, tighter radius's and 25 gear guarantee.....

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Get some cats.

I am also a sparky!

The price is similar but the labour less. Get yourself and angled drill and a nice 13mm wood drill and get drilling. Don't forget the regs surrounding drill holes through joists. Finally, the pipes pull easier when all the holes line up. You are going to want to spend a bit of time marking before drilling.

The next time I do this system, I will be looking to use the buteline pipes and fitting. This is because they are sealed internally I.e pulling JG pipes through joists etc can scratch the hell or of them. This can make it hard to get a good seal because JG seals externally. Also, tighter radius's and 25 gear guarantee...

Unless you have rats east straight through the stuff

 

[Jerry]

Unless you have rats east straight through the stuff

Bigger cats then. I recommend a Maine Coon

 

[king of pipes]

Rodents will knaw through plastic pipework I wouldn't take the risk even with al pert. Kop

 

[Jerry]

Rodents will knaw through plastic pipework I wouldn't take the risk even with al pert. Kop

Agreed but how many new builds are 100% copper?

 

[Dobbslc]

Most/all? new builds have solid floors with underfloor heating or microbore plastic buried in the screed.

 

[Jerry]

Most/all? new builds have solid floors with underfloor heating or microbore plastic buried in the screed.

Not really

 

[Dobbslc]

Well it's been a long summer and autumn and winter grafting under the floors but its finally done, almost.... Thanks for the advice along the way chaps.
The upstairs heating was piped up in "normal " copper while I had the floors and stud walls ripped out and was the first part of the heating system to be working. You'll see all the new 7×2" joists I had to fit due to the previous owners bodged attempt at extending the bedrooms into the eaves 🤬

Then the downstairs was started!!! After much deliberation I went with the Emmeti manifolds and Kuterlex 15mm soft copper coils pulled under the floors. It wasn't exactly easy getting it to pull up straight at the rads but it was ok. I put it in flexible conduit to protect it under the screed, it's all lagged under the old wooden floors and clipped where I could get to it.

Here's a photo of why I was worried about rodents eating the pipes!


I bought the adapters to fit it to the manifolds that have two seals on them and seem to hold the pipe quite tightly and I only had a couple of small leaks due to not tightening them up enough.


Here it is half finished with a temporary loop for testing, it's now got two more 22mm Kuterlex pipes going to the other manifold on the opposite side of the hallway. Now they were a PITA to fit in! The plumber finished installing the new oil boiler and getting the hot water back on in October, I then connected it up and tested.
All in all it works well and we have heat to all but the hall and spare room that will be done when I'm in there doing the wiring at a later date.
Hope this helps anyone doing something similar in an old house with a new extension and mice!

 

[Dobbslc]

I thought I'd update this thread on my heating system after 5 years of use. It's still working well and I've added more rads as I've finished rooms, I've got one small leak on the 3/4" valve feeding one of the manifold that I'm sure is the O ring and possibly because I didn't tighten it up really hard. The manifold has been knocked about a bit during demolishing the block work wall it was fixed to so I can't really blame it!
Before


After



The leak

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Looking good if you remove the red handle there might be a gland nut that you can just slightly nip etc