Filling Lop Handle Leaking Baxi Boiler

[Alex Tait]

We have a Baxi avanta plus combi boiler and the feed loop is leaking on the boiler side tap. I plan to get a new loop on the way home but was wondering if my plan to replace it is sound.

1. Turn of the mains and run kitchen sink tap to drain the pipes.
2. Turn off the flow into the boiler (pipe connected to the filling loop) using the valve screw on the boiler which I will need to locate first.
3. Replace broken loop with new loop.

Here's some photos of the loop

https://photos.app.goo.gl/XwWm8ducEJKAcKfK9

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Would have to drain the boiler / system down first but yea

 

[Alex Tait]

If I completely isolate the loop valve (disconnect mains... in turn off the valve to the boiler) then why would I need to drain the system and boiler? Forgive my ignorance.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

If I completely isolate the loop valve (disconnect mains... in turn off the valve to the boiler) then why would I need to drain the system and boiler? Forgive my ignorance.

Because your replacing the boiler fill valve correct ?

 

[Alex Tait]

Yes.. the filling loop...I was hoping that I would be able to turn off the connection to the boiler... and then the mains off too so no water is connected to the filling loop at all..Then remove the filling loop and replace.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Yes.. the filling loop...I was hoping that I would be able to turn off the connection to the boiler... and then the mains off too so no water is connected to the filling loop at all..Then remove the filling loop and replace.

Need to drain down sorry to say as it's connected to the heating pipework and not the boiler

 

[steadyon]

Funnily enough I did exactly this yesterday. If you are feeling brave, then:

1. Prepare the valve to go on the return pipe end by removing the compression nut and washer. I smeared a little Jet Lube V2 over the inside end of the valve where the olive will sit. Turn the valve to closed.
2. Turn off incoming cold water main, and drain residual water per your point 1.
3. Turn off the return valve from the boiler once you've identified it.
4. Slacken the compression nut holding the flexi to the return pipe and drain the water off into a bucket / bowl. It won't stop altogether but should slow to a trickle once the pressure is out of the system.
5. Undo the compression nut fully while holding the valve body in place as tight as you can get it.
6. Remove old valve / loop, and whip the new valve on, again holding as tight as possible.
7. Do the old compression nut up as hand tight as you can get it, then, holding the valve with another spanner / grips, do the compression nut up tight (another 1/2 turn or thereabouts).
8. Replace the valve on the cold side.
9. Fit the flexi and ensure all is tight.
10 Turn return valve under boiler back on again, and re-pressurise the boiler.

You'll lose some water at steps 4 / 5, but with the pressure released and the boiler isolated it shouldn't be much.

The above worked for me, as I didn't want to drain down and lose all the inhibitor. The system I worked on had all copper pipework and standard compression fittings.

 

[Riley]

Really shouldn’t be encouraging DIYers to go live

 

[Alex Tait]

Thanks steadyon

Regardless of if I decide to do it or not it does seem that it is possible to do without draining the entire system and losing your inhibitor and the extra messing about.

Also I found a guy on youtube with a good guide.


Is this forum just for professional plumbers or are DIYers also ok to post? Don't want to offend anyone.

Thanks

Funnily enough I did exactly this yesterday. If you are feeling brave, then:

1. Prepare the valve to go on the return pipe end by removing the compression nut and washer. I smeared a little Jet Lube V2 over the inside end of the valve where the olive will sit. Turn the valve to closed.
2. Turn off incoming cold water main, and drain residual water per your point 1.
3. Turn off the return valve from the boiler once you've identified it.
4. Slacken the compression nut holding the flexi to the return pipe and drain the water off into a bucket / bowl. It won't stop altogether but should slow to a trickle once the pressure is out of the system.
5. Undo the compression nut fully while holding the valve body in place as tight as you can get it.
6. Remove old valve / loop, and whip the new valve on, again holding as tight as possible.
7. Do the old compression nut up as hand tight as you can get it, then, holding the valve with another spanner / grips, do the compression nut up tight (another 1/2 turn or thereabouts).
8. Replace the valve on the cold side.
9. Fit the flexi and ensure all is tight.
10 Turn return valve under boiler back on again, and re-pressurise the boiler.

You'll lose some water at steps 4 / 5, but with the pressure released and the boiler isolated it shouldn't be much.

The above worked for me, as I didn't want to drain down and lose all the inhibitor. The system I worked on had all copper pipework and standard compression fittings.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

Your more than welcome to post diyers are welcome

 

[Alex Tait]

Thanks... I can see what you where saying earlier. The loop is connected to the pipes and not directly to the boiler so will have to empty the system in my case.