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Rab0301

Hi, I was asked to install a gas hob today, the manufacturers inst recommend 300mm to any combustable material at side of hob, the clearance I have is 60mm as there is a tall unit at the side, there is going to be a toughened glass splashback behind the hob and kitchen fitter insists he will continue this round and put toughened glass on the side of tall unit. What do you guys think? Would This be a ok installation??
 
ring the manufacturers and ask then if they say ok get this approved by them in a email if they say no you cant fit it
 
If you have the hob, you must have the instruction manual, it will tell you in there. The clearance is not just for heat, it is for air flow and pan handles.
 
300mm to the side is recommended/preferred, but can be reduced to 50mm if non combustible, as per the BS, can't remember the number off hand, but as others have said the specific mi top trumps the BS and there might be other considerations mentioned in the MI
 
Hi Rab,

The clearances are also for fire rating.

You may need to know the heat transfer capabilities / resistance of the glass and what the material is behind the glass.
I think that if you find the materials behind the glass are flammable then the clearances you have will not comply with regulations. - They wouldn't in Aus. anyway - assume it would be the same over there.

Glass can withstand a lot of heat, and it can also transfer that heat to flammable materials.
You may have to contact the glass manufacturer and get some information - in writing - to see if there product is suitable to be within the distances to the flame, particularly when pots are on the cooker.

I would be checking with as many people as possible to cover your backside.

It has become a real issue over here with glass splash-backs.

Oz Plumber
 
put some 6mm supalux behind the glass, get permission of the manufacturer and then fit it. or call the stupid idiot who designed the kitchen and tell him/her they need to cover the costs of the redesign.
 
Here is one i just thought about. Lots of kitchens being fitted over the past few years with mdf backboards less than 50mm from the back of the hob? Right or wrong there are plenty out there.
 
When I did my mate's brought the splashback down to the worktop and cut upstand to either edge of it
 
This stuff i'm on about
937-1661-1.jpg
 
Hi, I was asked to install a gas hob today, the manufacturers inst recommend 300mm to any combustable material at side of hob, the clearance I have is 60mm as there is a tall unit at the side, there is going to be a toughened glass splashback behind the hob and kitchen fitter insists he will continue this round and put toughened glass on the side of tall unit. What do you guys think? Would This be a ok installation??

I make no comment on the regs but would you trust a kitchen fitter?
 
Thanks for all the advice guys, will be back on job tomorrow, first thing i will do is phone the manufacturer, if they approve, the supalux behind splash back isnt a bad idea! thanks again
 
They are qualified to disconnect gas hob, just not to reconnect one, bit like electrics , qualified to decommission and make safe and install just won't energise as they need their mate???
 
Clearance around a cooking appliance and within the kitchen furniture shall be in accordance with the appliance manufacturer’s instructions regarding the supply of air, the discharge of combustion products, and protection against excessive temperatures.​
 
They are qualified to disconnect gas hob, just not to reconnect one, bit like electrics , qualified to decommission and make safe and install just won't energise as they need their mate???

They are qualified to disconnect nothing gas unless it is a bayonet.
Back in the early 90's corgi had a thing about this and it ended up kitchen fitters were being sent on gas courses (can't remember if it was acops or acs) so they could safely disconnect hobs cookers etc. They all passed naturally as they could read then some bright spark withing corgi or wherever thought maybe this wasn't such a bright idea as they were in effect qualified to work on other appliances too without having a clue (a bit like now) so they tightened up the rules slightly.
Most joiners/kitchen fitters, being self employed thought fk this next time round, not because they couldn't have passed it but because they had to spend another 500 or so on quid on renewing a ticket that was not much use to them as they were never checked so they dropped that nonsense and still continued to whack through a gas pipe with anything in their hand.
 
tb025 states that when disconnecting a bayonet while at work the person must be competent at a level to ensure that there is no escape of gas from the installation.

how does a non registerd person performing such work prove him/her self competent?

im working on a job after xmas, ive been told that carpenter, tiler, painter etc..... will all be removing the free standing cookers but will not be allowed to reconnect them up this will be done at the end of the day by a GSR. Ive been wondering where these trades stand as regards disconnecting without any form of training?

last job i worked on when this happend there was a number of situations where the carpenter had removed the cooker and the bayonet was passing causing a build up of gas.
 
When I worked at Carillion I kicked up a stink on the kitchen contracts because the labourers disconnected the cookers in the morning, then the pipes got knocked about till the plumber got there to do the first fix, a disaster waiting to happen, the contract managers weren't happy but I stuck to my guns and sent the gas guy into all the houses first thing to disconnect them and LDF the bayonet.
Yes it cost the contract but what price an explosion? It's all about doing it properly, but it will be OK for non gas to do it till there's a problem then the competence of the company will be questioned as their method statement was shoddy, and of course the labourer will get the sack
 
this is the problem i see coming on this job. ive been informed there is less than £10 in the contract to cover the cost of all gas work in the kitchen refurb side of this job which includes moving the cooker upto 3m away from current position, replacing any hose's, stability brackets etc....... So who will pay for the gas work to be done correctly? i think the plumbing contractor believes that you only need to do a visual check when you move a cookers pipework, hence the price thats been agreed (what happens when office staff price contract work i guess)

Sadly i know for sure that when i refuse to get involved in this and point out the correct method's needed i will be removed to a different job rather then better practices put into place. It happens all the time and ive lost plenty of work because i stand my ground. I refused to fit a second hand appliance without the instructions on one job last year, you would not believe the problems this caused with the main contractors.
 
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Come on I've done it loads of times it's only a gas pipe to a hob.
 
had similar last wk wall units were 460mm from top of hob which is standard - manufacture instructions showed higher
 
Hi, I was asked to install a gas hob today, the manufacturers inst recommend 300mm to any combustable material at side of hob, the clearance I have is 60mm as there is a tall unit at the side, ....

From my point of view what a badly designed and dangerous kitchen with a cupboard right up next to hob:
No space for handles - which should be to the side not out in front.
No space for putting things to the side before they go on or when they come of the heat.

I would only do this in a tiny kitchen where there is no option and would then go for electric instead.

I know of a case like this that corgi got involved in. The gas installer was able to point out that there was no cupboard to the side when he fitted the hob - lucky for him it was fitted after.. The house builder had to rectify with non-combustible material.
 
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