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Discuss Help please – new boiler installation problems in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

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I did don't mince words when dealing with fools who pretend to be experts but in reality are cowboys or amateurs.
Doitmyself apparently likes to make it appear he knows it all, but clearly doesn't understand the very basics of ch install and design; every forum has them and at best they do more harm than good, but mostly they do no good at all.

Your a bundle of joy today mate lol
 
Your a bundle of joy today mate lol
This is the central heating section of UK Plumbers forum; I claim to be an expert on ch design and repair ( and can back it up ), not a clown talking nonsense in an attempt at entertaining people.
Others here on the other hand..........
 
This is the central heating section of UK Plumbers forum; I claim to be an expert on ch design and repair ( and can back it up ), not a clown talking nonsense in an attempt at entertaining people.
Others here on the other hand..........

Lol I'm a plumber I'm not an expert I can safely say I learn somthing new all the time when I know everything I'll call myself an expert and thats never going to happen and i don't mistake arrogance for skill
Yes you are corect in a condesing boiler needs a return temp of not more than 55c to work at it's optimum efficency why did you not try and educate the person that got it wrong instead of calling them a fool!!
Chill out and wise up
 
Lol I'm a plumber I'm not an expert I can safely say I learn somthing new all the time when I know everything I'll call myself an expert and thats never going to happen
Agreed. I can't ( unfortunately ) say I learn something EVERY day about my work, but frequently; all experts do. Those who don't clearly don't keep up with the latest developments. ;-)

As to why I call the man a fool: what else would you call an amateur who thinks he knows better than a professional when his errors are so obvious that all anyone needs to do is rtfm to see what the facts are?
 
If you balance the system using a flow of 75C and return of 55C you will reduce the radiator output to 85% of their nominal output. So a newly installed system need the rads "oversized" by about 20%.

When you are changing the boiler on an existing system, where the rads were sized for an 11C drop, balancing the system so you get a 20C drop across the rads will immediately reduce the rad output by 15%.

That is both incorrect and irrelevant.
Ir certainly is not incorrect, though it may be slightly irrelevant to the OP's problem. The output of a radiator is related to the flow and return temperatures; it is not a fixed quantity.
 
Agreed. I can't ( unfortunately ) say I learn something EVERY day about my work, but frequently; all experts do. Those who don't clearly don't keep up with the latest developments. ;-)

As to why I call the man a fool: what else would you call an amateur who thinks he knows better than a professional when his errors are so obvious that all anyone needs to do is rtfm to see what the facts are?

I have worked with central heating all my working life ( 21 years ) and I do not know everything and come on these forums for help.
Calling the guy a fool is uncalled for in my opinion.
Maybe just anwsering the question correctly with the facts would of been much better, this would also assist the plumbers and heating engineers that may of forgot the correct temp.
 
fools who pretend to be experts but in reality are cowboys or amateurs.
And you are the guy who boasts on his website:

It was somewhere in my teens, that I "qualified" in the design, building and maintenance of wireless communication equipment.

What "qualifications" were they and how long did it take to acquire them?
 
In my teens means over 30 years ago. I haven't got the slightest clue what it was called, and it has probably been superseded by something that has been superseded since. If you can come up with a half decent reason why it would be of any importance to heating engineer what courses he did 3 decades earlier in other disciplines, I'll have a look to see if I can find it.
In the mean time, your silence about how you commission a boiler speaks for itself.
 
I did don't mince words when dealing with fools who pretend to be experts but in reality are cowboys or amateurs.
Doitmyself apparently likes to make it appear he knows it all, but clearly doesn't understand the very basics of ch install and design; every forum has them and at best they do more harm than good, but mostly they do no good at all.

an "expert" who thinks everyone who knows less then them is a fool should either help educate people in a non degrading manner or not bother to post at all IMO.
 
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Thanks for the responses and apologies for the delay...

TRVs were fitted by a different engineer in March. All radiators got hot with the old boiler after fitting the new TRVs.

Boiler installer claims to have balanced the system.

The flow temp is 43'C and return 42'C.

I can force hot water to the radiators that aren't working by closing the TRVs around the rest of the house.

Thanks,
Chris


no competent engineer would think those measured flow and return temps are correct , they are far away from being correct, so i would asume your engineer does not fully know what he is doing.
 
In my teens means over 30 years ago. I haven't got the slightest clue what it was called, and it has probably been superseded by something that has been superseded since. If you can come up with a half decent reason why it would be of any importance to heating engineer what courses he did 3 decades earlier in other disciplines, I'll have a look to see if I can find it.
In the mean time, your silence about how you commission a boiler speaks for itself.

you may think your a expert on here but your not endearing yourself to your colleagues ,you come on here and start slagging off respected members instead of trying to educate them in a friendly and helpful manner,now unlike you i have nothing to prove because i have something on here you dont, respect and in my expert opinion you are being a complete prat
 
Definitely gas safety approved and recommended by Remeha. But the guy is clueless. Gas safety not interested in doing an inspection - I have asked them to do one. Remeha not interested in inspecting - I have asked them as well. Installer a CIPHE member - they were not interested either. The only people who have been any help were Trading Standards with generic advice. Hence my posting on here because I have lost my confidence in the installer and had no support from elsewhere...
 
an "expert" who thinks everyone who knows less then them is a fool ...
I certainly don't think everybody who knows less than I about ch is a fool. But I do think that amateurs that clearly demonstrate they don't understand the basics and then try to tell a professional he doesn't know his business, are fools. They are like people without a driving license commenting on the driver; worst kind of backseat drivers in the world.
 
Definitely gas safety approved and recommended by Remeha. But the guy is clueless. Gas safety not interested in doing an inspection - I have asked them to do one. Remeha not interested in inspecting - I have asked them as well. Installer a CIPHE member - they were not interested either. The only people who have been any help were Trading Standards with generic advice. Hence my posting on here because I have lost my confidence in the installer and had no support from elsewhere...
In that case, sad but true, your only real option is to find a good installer and ask him to check and rectify what is lacking.
Bear in mind that before you can hold the original installer responsible for the costs, you need to give him 3 chances to rectify himself if I recall legal precedent correctly. Best to check this out with a legal expert.
One thing you may want to gamble a few quid on, is getting an independent RGI out to do a tightness test and a flue gas test. 10 minute job so shouldn't cost the world. If either of those fails, get it in writing and contact GSR again straight away, as well as HSE.
 
You definately need a 15/60 pump because the avanta plus is fully modulating and if the flow is slow through the boiler it will sense this and run at a reduced capacity, so he should of allowed for that in his quote .If you haven't paid him in full i would give him one more chance to rectify the wiring issue,and if that fails get someone else to put it right and take it off the bill.
 
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