One bad point is you include two long shaft Allen bolts only need one but can you swap the other for a normal Allen wrench as you can't do the set screws up when the screws are at the back
Ahh. That explains things!
Thanks for those points. Really.
We will be sending out red handled drivers for the handle screws to all owners as soon as they arrive.
I know it's only instructions
, but the spindle is supposed to be set to the correct opening direction, and
tightened tight,
before you put it into the tap body. Go stand in the naughty corner
We don't do it the way you are for good reasons. 1st is, as you've discovered, restricted access. You can do it up 'tight' when its off. Second is that you can test it for smoothness of turn to make sure its not binding BEFORE tightening it up and putting it in the body. Once in the tap body you do that same test again.
Which version of instructions do you have? They genuinely have been developed to be simply the most efficient way or working over several thousand installs. That is why the isolation of supplies is step THREE not step one.
Many people have ordered new drivers as they tend to overtighten and destroy them. That said, we've had one person who was afraid of overtightening and had to go back to two cartridges as the spindles had worked loose. One must NOT be afraid to tighten well. Oh one other thing. Using a std allen key will NOT do them up as tight as ours. Ours are made to more accurately reflect DIN 916 grub screw hex tolerances so this give us more torque befor stripping occurs. The very worst case is stripping of the internal hex in the grub screws but when that happens you know it aint never nohow gonna come loose. That stripping was designed in as a fail safe - it acts as a form of 'clutch'. Once you do it a couple of times you soon understand how 'tight' tight must be.
Crikey, anybody would think this stuff had been thought about...