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Honeywell Valve Not Working

ShaunCorbs said:
Don't know about Honeywells but Drayton one push there off take less than a couple if seconds[/QUOT
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heatservice said:
Holding the valve in the MAN position will not fire the boiler but your water will get hot when your heating is on.
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This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.
 
G M said:
This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.
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If your electrican confirmed that 240v is going to the motor but the valve is not driving open then you can change the complete actuator without having to drain down.
 
I’m not being funny, as had been previously mentioned. A heating eng or electrician (who actually knows central heating wiring....) should be able to give you a definitive answer in less than 5 minutes.... I know you know and trust your electrician dearly, but if they do not understand central heating wiring, or have much experience working on, then how do they know what to test for? That doesn’t have any bearing on them as an electrician, this is control wiring, electricians I know, trust dearly and work with on projects week in week out, don’t like to touch control wiring...!

Something is either not wired right, or is not functioning correctly, both of which will be very evident when checked...

Stu
 
G M said:
This is the only way I can get hot water - when the valve is in the manual position. The problem is, it obviously switches the heating on as well. I would like the water/heat to work independently but I can't get the hot water to work in the auto position. I can hear a clicking sound from the Nest control box but the valve does nothing.
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GM, you have got completely the wrong idea ref the valve operation. So does, it seems,your Sparks and your plumber.
The valve motor will turn when energised. It will close the m/switch, which (being permanently at 240V) sends the power to the boiler. Manually opening WILL NOT close the MS, but leaves the valve open. When your heating is fired, the HW will get hot. I assume that is what is actually happening.

As has been said, it is basic. I guarantee that I would find the fault inside 5 minutes. I cannot see where you have confirmed there is 240V at the valve motor. Is there 240V at the MS? If there is 240V at the MS, has this been tested across L&N?
 
firemant said:
I cannot see where you have confirmed there is 240V at the valve motor. Is there 240V at the MS?
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Just noticed that I did not write the above correctly. One cannot edit the posts, so

I meant to say:
If there is 240V at the MOTOR, has this been tested across L&N? (as opposed to a neon screwdriver etc

Is the motor driving, when energised, at all
 
firemant said:
L&N
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Hi,

Sorry for the delay. I've checked this myself and can confirm that the valve is receiving 240v. So either it's a fault with the motor, or it isn't wired properly, so won't operate. I took a picture of the Nest box and it looks a little strange. As you can see from the picture below, I have drawn a red circle around numbers 4 and 5. Although there is cables connected to this, there is nothing connected at the other end in the junction box. There is a brown wire sort of hanging but not connected to anything. I can take a few more pics if it helps. Thanks!

20180427_170347.jpg
 
Harvest Fields said:
6 is call for heat for hot water
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Oh! Then it definitely isn't wired up correctly. Should I move them one step to the right? Here's the other end of that cable in 4 and 5. It literally isn't connected to anything. I don't know if it has come loose or what, but surely this is the reason why it is working? Now the question is, where do I connect these? Thanks a lot for the help. Really appreciate it!

wires1.png
 
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You cannot do that job over a forum or the phone mate. Looking at the picture of the junction box it doesn’t look wired in as standard. Needs a clued up heating engineer to wire it in correctly. I know you wasn’t happy before when I/we questioned your sparky and engineer but sadly our experience tells us that this is quite common. Hope that you get sorted mate
 
Harvest Fields said:
You cannot do that job over a forum or the phone mate. Looking at the picture of the junction box it doesn’t look wired in as standard. Needs a clued up heating engineer to wire it in correctly. I know you wasn’t happy before when I/we questioned your sparky and engineer but sadly our experience tells us that this is quite common. Hope that you get sorted mate
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Thank you. It wasn't necessarily folk questioning the electrician; it was the comment that said get a new electrician and plumber without any reason why. That comment wasn't really of any use however, once the reasons were explained, it made more sense.

Thank you. I'll just have to get someone you specialises with heating and themostats in particular and go from there. At least we now know what the cause is (hopefully). Thanks to everyone for your input!
 
G M said:
Thank you. It wasn't necessarily folk questioning the electrician; it was the comment that said get a new electrician and plumber without any reason why. That comment wasn't really of any use however, once the reasons were explained, it made more sense.

Thank you. I'll just have to get someone you specialises with heating and themostats in particular and go from there. At least we now know what the cause is (hopefully). Thanks to everyone for your input!
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Where about are you in the world?
 

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