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I wonder if anyone can help diagnose a problem I'm having.

My hot water won't come on by itself.

The system is a pretty bog-standard gravity fed type with the cylinder, pump, 2 port valve etc in a first-floor airing cupboard.

If I switch on the heating by itself it works.

If I switch on the heating and hot water together the pump switches off. If I then turn down the cylinder thermostat the pump switches back on and I start getting a supply of hot water to the cylinder. This isn't ideal though because supposedly there's nothing to tell the 2 port valve when there's enough hot water? Could this be harmful?

The 2 port valve seems to be switching to direct water to each part of the system without any problem so I don't think that's the issue. As far as I can tell the problem lies with the controller which is a pretty ancient looking Potterton EP2002.

Anybody able to offer any thoughts?
 
@CBW1982 Reading through that site you posted, looking at the first section "Hot Water Only". I've turned power off and back on again so that the 3 port valve is in position B. I've then turned on HW only and it doesn't run. Bearing in mind that I have replaced the cylinder stat and controller and assuming I've done this correctly :) does this point to a wiring fault somewhere? The boiler and pump run for CH only so can I rule out any problem with that?
 
Chris he said it has three wires for the cylinder stat, he didn’t mean the valve. I believe he means this is a mid position valve.

Ivan with these valves, if HW and CH are on at same time or just HW then power to boiler is through the cylinder stat. When you turn down the cylinder stat this satisfies the stat and the grey HW off wire becomes energised, this then motors over to CH only and power to boiler and pump is through valve orange wire
Sorry to all for any confusion caused.:oops:

Note to self, read the back posts again before you open your big mouth.
 
@CBW1982 Reading through that site you posted, looking at the first section "Hot Water Only". I've turned power off and back on again so that the 3 port valve is in position B. I've then turned on HW only and it doesn't run. Bearing in mind that I have replaced the cylinder stat and controller and assuming I've done this correctly :) does this point to a wiring fault somewhere? The boiler and pump run for CH only so can I rule out any problem with that?

It could be, but not necessarily, you don’t know for certain that the valve is returning to position B. This might be why getting an engineer in might be more beneficial. Boiler and pump should still come on for HW, if you look at the flashing brown wires diagram. Also like you have said if you have replaced the other components correctly. :rolleyes:
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Something just doesn’t add up. Are you sure that you have wired programmer and cylinder stat in correctly? This valve is very basic and even if not returning to HW position only then the stat should still bring on the boiler. Am I wrong?
 
Something just doesn’t add up. Are you sure that you have wired programmer and cylinder stat in correctly? This valve is very basic and even if not returning to HW position only then the stat should still bring on the boiler. Am I wrong?

I'm as certain as I can be that I've wired both correctly.

The cylinder stat was a like for like replacement and I'm sure I put everything back in the same place.

The programmer I was replacing was a Potterton EP2002 and I've put a Drayton LP522 in its place. I've attached a pic of the back plate before I remove it. When I wired in the Drayton backplate I wired it identically to the old one with the one exception of removing the link between live and 5 on the Potterton - as per the comparison chart supplied with the Drayton. Is this wrong? Seems spot on to me.

I'll switch the power off later on this morning and double check all wiring I can.

IMG_20190223_102233.jpg
 
Solved!

The connection from terminal 1 in the cylinder stat had worked its way free of its connection inside the junction box. The lead from the stat is hanging free and had not been secured at or near the entrance to the junction box so multiple knocks over time had caused it to work itself free.

Now to run it for a while to generate some hot water and then I can power off and tighten up all connections and secure the loose leads.

Thanks to all who got involved!
 

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