How do I remove plastic compression coupling to access external waste pipe?

[TomW36]

I would like to remove compression coupling to gain access to external waste pipe. I can remove both ends by twisting but the middle section does not move away. Do I need to apply more force?

My waste pipe is blocked so need access to try wet vac from outside as from toilet has not cleared the block.apply.

Grateful for any advice.

 

[ShaunCorbs]

You won’t wet vac a main soil pipe blockage best get a jetting / drainage company out

 

[TomW36]

You won’t wet vac a main soil pipe blockage best get a jetting / drainage company out

thanks, it is not the main soil pipe tha\t is blocked, its the smaller pipe from mascerator, on the left in the picture. Need to remove the white compression coupling. We have spent a small fortune getting drainage companies out to wet vac and clear the mascerator waste pipe, but only lasts couple of weeks before blocking.

 

[snowhead]

Is it the small pipe you are trying to clear?
Can you not get a vac onto it from inside the property?

If it is just the small pipe, you need to carefully lift up the waste pipe above the connector about 25mm to release it.
It looks like it's been cut there in the past to clear a blockage.
A quick fix for next time would be to replace the connector with a Tee and bung in the branch so it can be easilly accessed.
Ideally all the outside section needs replacing, including the boss connector to the main pipe, including an access point.

It'll be blocked where the small pipe joins the large pipe, with toilet paper.

 

[centralheatking]

You should be able to undo the compression fitting, remember they undo opposite ways !
also make sure you are above it...otherwise...poo all over you. That waste what dia. ?
it looks like 1 1/4 which is too small. Anyway the set up needs taking down, rebuilding with rodding points and rod tees ..are you sure the block is outside ? dont always expect the
easiest solution to be the answer. centralheatking

 

[ShaunCorbs]

thanks, it is not the main soil pipe tha\t is blocked, its the smaller pipe from mascerator, on the left in the picture. Need to remove the white compression coupling. We have spent a small fortune getting drainage companies out to wet vac and clear the mascerator waste pipe, but only lasts couple of weeks before blocking.

If it’s constantly blocking it’s telling you something is wrong

@rpm shouldn't it be bigger than overflow pipe ?

 

[TomW36]

Is it the small pipe you are trying to clear?
Can you not get a vac onto it from inside the property?

If it is just the small pipe, you need to carefully lift up the waste pipe above the connector about 25mm to release it.
It looks like it's been cut there in the past to clear a blockage.
A quick fix for next time would be to replace the connector with a Tee and bung in the branch so it can be easilly accessed.
Ideally all the outside section needs replacing, including the boss connector to the main pipe, including an access point.

It'll be blocked where the small pipe joins the large pipe, with toilet paper.

Thanks, yes, the small pipe is the blocked one, leads to a mascerator in our en suite. Brand new mascerator and toilet, though pipe may have been there for many moons.

have tried 1000w wet vac down toilet but not cleared it. Have had professional unblocked try with their vac and it did work, but not for more than a few days Before blocking again.

appreciate your advice on the external pipes. The access was recently installed by an unblocking company and yes the pipe was previously cut to attempt unblocking. Sounds like we need to replace, though we are wondering whether to take the plunge and have all pipes replaced and laid in a larger size from mascerator to soil pipe, as the pipe seems very narrow.
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You should be able to undo the compression fitting, remember they undo opposite ways !
also make sure you are above it...otherwise...poo all over you. That waste what dia. ?
it looks like 1 1/4 which is too small. Anyway the set up needs taking down, rebuilding with rodding points and rod tees ..are you sure the block is outside ? dont always expect the
easiest solution to be the answer. centralheatking

‘thanks, not sure block is in the external pipe, however wet vac hasn’t cleared it from toilet end so not sure what else to try.

i managed to unscrew both ends of the compression but the central plastic section holding the pipe dosen’t seem to move easily. Will try again.

i think the pipe is 22cm and have been told it’s too small.

we had a mascerator toilet working fine for two years but since we bought and had installed a new saniflo, which is now connected to shower and basin, we have only had problems with blocking. We are careful with Paper etc so may have to bite the bullet and get all pipes replaced from mascerator out to the soil pipe.

 

[king of pipes]

rpm is the expert on these , regarding the compression fitting hold the centre of the fitting with a pair of grips the top half unscrews anti clockwise the bottom one clockwise be carefull it could be under pressure and you risk being covered in nasties . Kop

 

[rpm]

See and hear of this all too often I`m afraid where people have a problem and somebody comes along saying "You need a new pump!" where the problem is within the pipe.
Depending on manufacture the pipe can be 22/32/40mm and as you say it`s a recent pump causing problems every few weeks the solution has to be within the pipe. If you can seperate and cap off the pipe then it could be cleaned with chemicals or go for a new pipe run.

 

[Ric2013]

Sigh. The problem with trying to remove that compression fitting is that even if the ends are unscrewed, you need to be able to pull one or the other end of the pipe out of it. If the highest 45° (135°) joint and the lowest 45° (135°) joint had been compression fittings then you could easily have pulled the whole section out while putting minimal stress on the pipe.

 

[TomW36]

See and hear of this all too often I`m afraid where people have a problem and somebody comes along saying "You need a new pump!" where the problem is within the pipe.
Depending on manufacture the pipe can be 22/32/40mm and as you say it`s a recent pump causing problems every few weeks the solution has to be within the pipe. If you can seperate and cap off the pipe then it could be cleaned with chemicals or go for a new pipe run.

Thanks, RPM, I think it must be the pipes causing the issue. Tried wet vac again but still no luck. capping off and using chemicals could be an option. Is there something you could recommend?

longer term we will probably need a new pipe run. Our mascerator goes up to 32cm. Would it make a difference if the pipe is 22 or 32 in terms of likelihood to block? Obviously bigger should be better but not assuming/.
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Sigh. The problem with trying to remove that compression fitting is that even if the ends are unscrewed, you need to be able to pull one or the other end of the pipe out of it. If the highest 45° (135°) joint and the lowest 45° (135°) joint had been compression fittings then you could easily have pulled the whole section out while putting minimal stress on the pipe.

Thanks, Ric, as it’s proving too tr8ckier than I’d originally assumed, going to leave the compressor in place. Will explore capping off mascerator and cleaning pipes with chemicals, or getting a new pipe run laid, which I imagine will be the best long term but also probably not cheap.

 

[rpm]

If you can rig up a good connection and raise the pipe indoors and leave it high for awhile then Dam Buster however it is dangerous stuff. If manufacture allows run 32mm pipe after first vertical in 22mm.

 

[WC1]

It's possible the original installer didn't deburr the joints and 99% sure whoever cut it to put in the compression left ragged ends.
I'd have a go at getting the compression fitting off and cleaning up the ends. Not a job for the faint hearted but it sounds like you're game, have you twisted the compression nuts off and slid them right out of the way along the pipe to see whats happening and to make room to wiggle the ends of the pipe free? I.e. disassemble in situ.

 

[TomW36]

It's possible the original installer didn't deburr the joints and 99% sure whoever cut it to put in the compression left ragged ends.
I'd have a go at getting the compression fitting off and cleaning up the ends. Not a job for the faint hearted but it sounds like you're game, have you twisted the compression nuts off and slid them right out of the way along the pipe to see whats happening and to make room to wiggle the ends of the pipe free? I.e. disassemble in situ.

Thanks WC!1, Both compression nuts were easy to move but I couldn’t free the pipe from the fitting.

As this 22cm run keeps blocking I’ve decided to leave trying to unblock again and going to get a new pipe run laid which should hopefully resolve the issue.

 

[centralheatking]

As a last chance, I am looking at the strap on boss where it joins the soil ....I can see most connections are glued ones..except the compression connector. Is it a rubber bung into the strap on boss...you might be able to work it free there...or has it been glued as well
centralheatking

 

[rpm]

Thanks WC!1, Both compression nuts were easy to move but I couldn’t free the pipe from the fitting.

As this 22cm run keeps blocking I’ve decided to leave trying to unblock again and going to get a new pipe run laid which should hopefully resolve the issue.

This may be for the best, in the meantime consult with manufactures webpage to make sure the new pipe can be installed within their guidelines or you might be wasting money. Thing that puzzles me is the system worked until the new pump was installed if I remember corectly. Dont get me wrong but are you certain that a cheap pump wasn`t installed? Check pump casing for manufactures name and model stickers if you can.
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As a last chance, I am looking at the strap on boss where it joins the soil ..I can see most connections are glued ones..except the compression connector. Is it a rubber bung into the strap on boss...you might be able to work it free there...or has it been glued as well
centralheatking

Can`t see signs of a rubber bung connector Rob, it all looks like solvent weld there. I`m wondering if somebody was clever and turned the compression connector into a slip connector or perhaps the OP needs to be firmer with it.

 

[TomW36]

This may be for the best, in the meantime consult with manufactures webpage to make sure the new pipe can be installed within their guidelines or you might be wasting money. Thing that puzzles me is the system worked until the new pump was installed if I remember corectly. Dont get me wrong but are you certain that a cheap pump wasn`t installed? Check pump casing for manufactures name and model stickers if you can.
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Can`t see signs of a rubber bung connector Rob, it all looks like solvent weld there. I`m wondering if somebody was clever and turned the compression connector into a slip connector or perhaps the OP needs to be firmer with it.

we replaced a very old saniflo. The new one is a Saniflo Saniplus Up. Can pump vertically up to 5 metres so hopefully will work. We did have the toilet moved to the other end of the en suite but otherwise pipe work is the same. Even had a saniflo approved engineer out to check and he said no issues.

we had one blockage with the old

This may be for the best, in the meantime consult with manufactures webpage to make sure the new pipe can be installed within their guidelines or you might be wasting money. Thing that puzzles me is the system worked until the new pump was installed if I remember corectly. Dont get me wrong but are you certain that a cheap pump wasn`t installed? Check pump casing for manufactures name and model stickers if you can.
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we had a saniflo Saniplus up put in. Replaced an old saniflo that we thought might give up the ghost. This new one should have power to deal with toilet plus shower and basin. Can pump 5m vertically so hopefully new pipe run will work. guys doing it know so will let you know if it works out.

its a bit of a mystery. We had a block 18 months ago with the old saniflo but then has been fine since. Then with new saniflo we have had systematic blockages. Was cleared for 2 weeks using a gas method that I’m not familiar with but otherwise three professional wet vac cleans lasted 2 days or so.

Can`t see signs of a rubber bung connector Rob, it all looks like solvent weld there. I`m wondering if somebody was clever and turned the compression connector into a slip connector or perhaps the OP needs to be firmer with it.

 

[rpm]

Thanks for that, it was something else to check, good luck with it.

 

[TomW36]

Thanks for that, it was something else to check, good luck with it.

Wanted to say huge thanks for your advice. We have had a new run of 32mm pipe laid that goes up into our attic and then links to main soil pipe. Saniflo seems to be pumping very effectively, so problem was def 22mm pipe.

Attached a few pics to show pipework in case you're interested from a professional standpoint.
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Wanted to say huge thanks for your advice. We have had a new run of 32mm pipe laid that goes up into our attic and then links to main soil pipe. Saniflo seems to be pumping very effectively, so problem was def 22mm pipe.

Attached a few pics to show pipework in case you're interested from a professional standpoint.

 

[centralheatking]

Looks like a proper job, maybe a rodding point might have been a good idea
centralheatking

 

[rpm]

Looks like a proper job, maybe a rodding point might have been a good idea
centralheatking

Rodding points WILL be needed in around a year and a half maybe two years time subject to useage unless it s the camera lens distorting angles.

Also guess he had the attitude that reading the instructions was for dummies.
2nd photo, top left corner, is that white bit a pipe at an angle or an open window and that notch looks deep.

 

[MOSSEP]

Unless your loft floor is out of level it doesn't look like the pipe has a fall on it? I don't think you are supposed to use tight 90 degree bends either, 2 45's are usually specified in the manual.

 

[TomW36]

Unless your loft floor is out of level it doesn't look like the pipe has a fall on it? I don't think you are supposed to use tight 90 degree bends either, 2 45's are usually specified in the manual.

Luckily there is a slight angle to our house in the direction of the soil pipe. I did ask about the need for more fall, but installer said pump in our saniflo is so powerful so not an issue. After flushing I can hear water washing around in the loft pipes for around 30 secs before it goes through to external run and into main soil pipe, so working fine now, though I wonder over time how things will pan if water pressure isn’t that high as the run is so long and horizontal.

on ridding points, where is the best place to install and is it a straightforward job?

 

[centralheatking]

Luckily there is a slight angle to our house in the direction of the soil pipe. I did ask about the need for more fall, but installer said pump in our saniflo is so powerful so not an issue. After flushing I can hear water washing around in the loft pipes for around 30 secs before it goes through to external run and into main soil pipe, so working fine now, though I wonder over time how things will pan if water pressure isn’t that high as the run is so long and horizontal.

on ridding points, where is the best place to install and is it a straightforward job?

Rodding points can go on every bend, install a 't' with the blind part a threaded removable stop end. centralheatking

 

[moonlight]

Too many fittings there.