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Never done your pipework properly underfloor imho ,
prob to many places for compressed air pockets and micro bubbles that are slowly becoming unsettled, i come across it so many times people unaware of how to install a pressurised system .
pressurised systems are less likely to have small air pockets in them, the air is forced out even if it is installed poorly. how would YOU lay your flow and return pipes differently to an oppenvented system?? i would do it exactly the same in either case imho only instead of the point on the system where theirs a tank their would be an un-vented set up.
 
anode and cathode. if you put a piece of copper in a potato and a piece of magnesium in the same potato but at the other end and you have a wire from each piece of metal with a volt meter inbetween you get voltage!! like a very **** battery. the potato acts as the buffer. on the electrolytic table copper is very high up and eats most other metals in the system.
 
Thanks for all the input lads. The bloke who owns the prop is a sparky so I can get him to check for earth leakage etc. Mike do you know what disinfectant you used , If the problem persists I dont want to add something that is not correct? I can except that I may not have got all the original cleanser out ( although drain points on every drop to help), I am struggling to cope with the idea that my work is rough ! If this was the case all my installs would be plagued by this problem and they aint. I will update .
 
You can obtain a kit and send away a sample for testing here SystemCheck Test Kit | JetFlush and Test Kits | Central Heating | Sentinel central heating products. ... May be worth giving sentinel a call to find out how much it would cost Darren. Could save you a lot of time :)

This only works if you've dosed with Sentinel X100. I've spoken to Sentinel about this very issue as I need to check a large system with unknown or indeed no inhibitor. They informed me that it isn't a full chemical analysis, just a check for the concentration / efficacy of X100.

As an aside, I think it slightly 'cheeky' that H4S should immediately assume (and then repeatedly state) that the problem is the OP's installation practices. "IMHO" ...
 
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Thanks for all the input lads. The bloke who owns the prop is a sparky so I can get him to check for earth leakage etc. Mike do you know what disinfectant you used , If the problem persists I dont want to add something that is not correct? I can except that I may not have got all the original cleanser out ( although drain points on every drop to help), I am struggling to cope with the idea that my work is rough ! If this was the case all my installs would be plagued by this problem and they aint. I will update .

Darren shrug it off ... You know the quality of your work and TBH dropper systems are a pain, if microbore, even worse...! Good luck getting it sorted. I was serious about taking the rads out side and running a hose through them by-the-way .. :)
 
This only works if you've dosed with Sentinel X100. I've spoken to Sentinel about this very issue as I need to check a large system with unknown or indeed no inhibitor. They informed me that it isn't a full chemical analysis, just a check for the concentration / efficacy of X100.

As an aside, I think it slightly 'cheeky' that H4S should immediately assume (and then repeatedly state) that the problem is the OP's installation practices. A little conceited, "IMHO" ...


sorry for making any input on an open forum quite obviously notin the plumbing elite on here !!!
 
Thanks for all the input lads. The bloke who owns the prop is a sparky so I can get him to check for earth leakage etc. Mike do you know what disinfectant you used , If the problem persists I dont want to add something that is not correct? I can except that I may not have got all the original cleanser out ( although drain points on every drop to help), I am struggling to cope with the idea that my work is rough ! If this was the case all my installs would be plagued by this problem and they aint. I will update .


Can't remember now but Fernox do one. Biocide AF10
 
What inhibitor are you using Darren? might be worth a call to their tech helpline
 
Sentinel x100. I should know within a week or two whether flushing and re-inhibiting has been successfull. If not its out with the powerflusher and start again !
 
Hi darren...
If radiators in your home are failing to deliver consistent heat, there are two possible causes. It could be that the water being received by the radiators is not hot enough or that the water received is not in direct contact with the entire surface of the radiator.

Supplying hot water depends upon three factors: the heat output of the boiler, the size and efficiency of the pump and the provision of clear, unrestricted pipework of adequate bore

Hydrogen is a product of corrosion, either the system is full of sludge or the pipework is steel and past it's sell by date.
Powerflushing could solve one problem but destroy the pipework completely, expect a few leaks if it's really bad.

If the system has performed fine previously, the size of the boiler is not likely to be the problem, but system modifications such as an extension could lead to the pump becoming insufficient for the size of the system. Debris in the pipework can restrict flow, and most commonly this is corrosion debris, which can also be present in radiators. If they are cold at the top, but warm at the bottom, they are likely to be suffering from an accumulation of hydrogen. If the radiators have cold spots or a cold area at the bottom, it is likely that there is a build up of sludge in the bottom, affecting the flow.
 
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