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Discuss Lead welding in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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ste b

Started this this week,any information appreciated,i know one thing its not easy lol
 
I used to do electrical soldering a while back so I took to it very well, a lot of the welding torches get dropped on the floor by clumsey meatheads which damages the nozzel, learn how to get the right size flame or it wont weld properly

Clean the lead before hand, make plenty of rods and keep them to yourself or they'll be gone!
 
You MUST get the flame right, enough to get a molten pool but not melt straight through the sheet, also dont panic and remove the flame all the time, you need to be confident enough to keep the momentum going. Its much easier working on a piece thats sitting flat on the bench so whenever possible position your piece so that its flat on the bench/board. Momentum is the key, get your molten pool and then keep it moving along adding dabs into the pool as you go, DONT stop, you'll burn through or lose the edge of your sheet, once you get it moving you'll be surprised how quickly you can zip across a piece. Theres not much thats more satisfying than running a really neat lead weld with nice even ripples.
 
I remember doing it at day release college during my apprentiship days, must have put a hole in about 20 sheets of lead before i got it right, we had to make a lead slate for a stack vent.

It's all about getting the flame right, working distance, and hand eye coordination.

Did one stack in 33 years of plumbing after serving a 5 year apprentiship.
Waste of time if you ask me, particularly nowadays.

Most so called plumbers now could'nt wipe a joint if you asked them.
 
Still a craft

I teach at an FE college, and teach lead bossing and welding. Its one of the most difficult techniques to master, don't be too disapointed if you don't get it straight away as i see it its on of the only crafts left in Plumbing,

Preperation is the key 15 mins to set up and prep 2 mins to do the weld.

1. Make sure your work are is clean and tidy and your base is free from stones or grit etc.

2. Clean/shave your lead only 5mm or so each side (keep it straight and uniform, remember the molten lead will keep to the shaved area and look uniform is shaved straight)

3. Clean and shave enough welding rods to complete the task keep then all the same width, again for uniformity.

4. Set the gas pressures on the regulators 0.14-0.2 bar on each is enough.

5. Using a model O torch with a number 2 nozzle, set the flame to
neutral Oxyacetylene.

6. Using a scrap peice of lead hold the flame around 20-15mm away from the lead the lead should form a molten pool in around 2-3 seconds any quicker the flame is too hot (adjust regulator) any longer again adjust regulator to suit. PREP DONE.

7. Tack Each end of your weld to hold it all in place then off you go remebering to keep it steady and uniform.

8. The finished peice should have full penetration and be reinforced, that means your weld should go all the way through the thickness of the lead and the finished weld should have a raised feel to it when you run your finget over it, if the finished weld hasn't got a raised feel to it it is then undercut and weak.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Brian
 
Thanks for all these replys, really appreciated, i confident i will get this one, i have done a bit of welding in the past so at least thats a start hey, does anyone know where i can buy a lead welder, dont want to spend a load of cash on one i just want one that will do the job, and i have been told it will be hard to get the gas, is that true?.......
 
I will try again lets suppose i was to get a job roof flashing and this art of lead welding was to used,where would i get a lead welder and the welding rods and also the gas,struggling to find out what equipment is to be used and where to find it,i was told you could buy rolls of lead but as with the dangers with lead i still not come accross any anywhere........please correct me if theses welders are not called lead welders,there probably another name for them, cheers hope the new year going well for peeps............
 
[DLMURL="http://www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk/redirector.php?url=http%3A%2F%2Fcgi.ebay.co.uk%2FRothenberger-Micro-Fire-Lead-Fine-Flame-Blow-Torch_W0QQitemZ190258617034QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_DIY_Materials_Plumbing_MJ%3Fhash%3Ditem190258617034%26_trksid%3Dp3286.c0.m14%26_trkparms%3D72%253A1301%7C66%253A2%7C65%253A12%7C39%253A1%7C240%253A1318"]Rothenberger Micro Fire Lead Fine Flame Blow Torch on eBay, also, Plumbing Tools, Industrial Tools, Business, Office Industrial (end time 08-Feb-09 08:25:26 GMT)[/DLMURL]
 
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You'll get rolls of lead from most roofing or builders merchants and the welding "rods" are simply strips cut from the lead sheet, usually offcuts and end of rolls.
 
Don't buy that micro thing on ebay waste of time and money. You need a Model O saphire welding torch with a couple of size 2 nozzels.

Lead isnt dangerouse unless you eat it regularly
 
I remember doing it at day release college during my apprentiship days, must have put a hole in about 20 sheets of lead before i got it right, we had to make a lead slate for a stack vent.

It's all about getting the flame right, working distance, and hand eye coordination.

Did one stack in 33 years of plumbing after serving a 5 year apprentiship.
Waste of time if you ask me, particularly nowadays.

Most so called plumbers now could'nt wipe a joint if you asked them.

nice to know theres someone as old as me on here like you i did my day release and had to produce roofing in lead copper ally and neuraliteand to this day i dont think ive used any of them except the odd piece of lead

my tutor at tottenham tech was George Blower who wrote the plumbing book that was used by most coledges at the time
Plumbing has been de skilled over the years as have most trades,you dont need much traning to pushfit pipes

my first day as an apprentice i watched the plumber wipe in a 4 inch lead bend on a soil stack he said to me watch this carefully as you'll never see it again and he was right
 
Hi Steb. There is aerosol type plant that can be purchased for £100-00 it will allow the welding of lead sheet on the bench and flat. However being a plumber who has specialised in sheet lead work and welding, i find them to be limited, as has been suggested Ox/acet, gauges, hoses and model "O" torch are far superior, allowing all aspects welding skills to be mastered. The cost of such would be approx £300-00 plus bottle hire. If you wish to view welded sheet lead products and video on the flashing of chimneys visit http://justlead.co.uk I am in the process of producting DVD/Video on the subject of lead welding, this will be avaliable soon and may well be of intrest. Good Luck
 
nice to know theres someone as old as me on here like you i did my day release and had to produce roofing in lead copper ally and neuraliteand to this day i dont think ive used any of them except the odd piece of lead

my tutor at tottenham tech was George Blower who wrote the plumbing book that was used by most coledges at the time
Plumbing has been de skilled over the years as have most trades,you dont need much traning to pushfit pipes

my first day as an apprentice i watched the plumber wipe in a 4 inch lead bend on a soil stack he said to me watch this carefully as you'll never see it again and he was right

Nice to know that i am not the oldest on here, i did the same day and block release at the Vauxhall College of Building and FE ,i was also taught lead ,copper ,aluminium ,zinc and nuralite sheet roofwork way back in 1984. We were apparently the last year to be taught how to wipe lead joints (burlock fixing tools,remember them) and also to caulk a joint on cast iron soil pipe. We were shown how to solder zinc sheet together using "killed hydrochloric acid" also known as Bakers fluid to clean the zinc and to heat the joint using soldering irons. Plus my favourite was lead bossing and making sand loaded bends in black iron pipe. The plumbing syllabus has had all the art and craft knocked out of it.
 
Re: Still a craft

I teach at an FE college, and teach lead bossing and welding. Its one of the most difficult techniques to master, don't be too disapointed if you don't get it straight away as i see it its on of the only crafts left in Plumbing,

Preperation is the key 15 mins to set up and prep 2 mins to do the weld.

1. Make sure your work are is clean and tidy and your base is free from stones or grit etc.

2. Clean/shave your lead only 5mm or so each side (keep it straight and uniform, remember the molten lead will keep to the shaved area and look uniform is shaved straight)

3. Clean and shave enough welding rods to complete the task keep then all the same width, again for uniformity.

4. Set the gas pressures on the regulators 0.14-0.2 bar on each is enough.

5. Using a model O torch with a number 2 nozzle, set the flame to
neutral Oxyacetylene.

6. Using a scrap peice of lead hold the flame around 20-15mm away from the lead the lead should form a molten pool in around 2-3 seconds any quicker the flame is too hot (adjust regulator) any longer again adjust regulator to suit. PREP DONE.

7. Tack Each end of your weld to hold it all in place then off you go remebering to keep it steady and uniform.

8. The finished peice should have full penetration and be reinforced, that means your weld should go all the way through the thickness of the lead and the finished weld should have a raised feel to it when you run your finget over it, if the finished weld hasn't got a raised feel to it it is then undercut and weak.

Hope this helps.

Regards

Brian
still teaching proper lead work great
 
Lead welding/burning is easy just get a cheap kit. sit down somewhere quiet. and practice
for about 20 years.
Ive been working with lead as a roofer for 39 years now
and can still get it wrong at times.
Some welds can be very hard and take all the skills you have acquired.
But some welding can be easy IF you are shown some basic techniques.
(try searching for some video clips)
Its no good asking lead workers as they see it as a big secret
never to be shown to eanyone.
Get some thick lead code 5 or 6. An Oxy-turbo burning kit from a
roofers merchant. and practice till you stop throwing things at the wall.
Lead work and sheet leadwork are roofing trades.
but used to be plumbing trades as in:
Plumbum latin word for lead as in lead pipe.
Element symbol Pb PlumBum.
Dirived into English as Plumbing, Plumber and Plumb-bob.
Hope this helps.
 
last 4 inch lead wipe two years ago on a listed building in kent great fun i loved it
 
Orrible job! Done even 2 meter wide lead slate, for industrial chimney. And all the usual stuff. Mostly though, we gave it the apprentices to do.

Watch the fumes and don't use too fast or to slow a neutralizing flame it can give off lead fumes.

Which are said to make you mad after about 40 years.

Oh! Aye! Don't forget your bottle of free milk as well! Okay its for galvo but its still nice if you can get it for lead.

All that bossing and bending may not be so bad if the companies give you the time to do it in.
 
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Bernie,

I did a lead slate for a 28" chimney once, not quite as wide as yours, but wide enough, the cheeky dosser of a fitter moaned and dripped for days afterwards, because I had not cut the base of the slate to correspond to the corrugations of the asbestos sheeting, he did not give me the position of the flue, in relation to the roofing sheet
 
lead and asbestos in the same sentence somes it up for me.

im afraid i'm one of the plumbers who has never done sheet lead work, it looks pretty on roof's but in plumbing i just like to rip it out wherever its found.

just me being biased on the theme again, and i do admire the skill involved, i just cant see the future in it, especially teaching it in colleges!

shaun
 
I have found that if you have the knowledge to work on lead pipe to open it up for a branch, or work a knuckle bend, you have more than enough knowledge to apply the same methods and techniques to copper tube

The same applies to lead sheet, to a certain extent when working different metals for roof work, be it copper, zinc or aluminium, if you know how to set out and develop, the weathering upstand for a pipe passing through a roof to make the opening watertight, the principles are just the same whatever the metal used

If you cannot do these simple things you cannot be called a plumber, just a pipe fitter
 
i can see what your saying plousane, just for me i'd call a pro roofer in to sort that out, my plumbing problems are complicated enough without having to worry about the how the lead welding looks under the soil pipe. im not a glazier either.!!

just a plumber, making my life as simple as possible

shaun
 
Yes Plouasne mine was on a brewery boiler stack, if I remember right it was a corrugated asbestos roof as well.

I must admit, although I don't like lead work, but having been an employed Plumber you don't get to pick and choose your jobs very often, so if your given a lead job you have to get on with it, its what you get paid for. And professionalism means you have to make as good a job as your skills allow. Being fair, there isn't really a substitute yet for its shape adaptability.

The likes of Nuralite look terrible after a few years. And copper is hardly ever used.

Its more green mineral felt for large roofs instead of bays and rolls though.

I think people may think lead is going out of use, but a trip down any UK building site still shows plenty of lead flashings and bays are still going up. The green lobby have a point though on its damage to the environment, which makes me think that the minute anything does come along it will be replaced pretty quick
 
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Plouasne i thought you would be the first to remind every body that "plumber" from the Latin and French means worker of lead. I would support the comments on regarding knowledge craft and skill associated with forge bendin, sand loading, joint wiping, bossing etc. 40 years after practising sand loading black iron for bending, i adapted the principal on 110 mm plastic soil (using warm sand) to over come a problem. Our skill evolve not much is brand new.
 
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