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The problem you will find when you use silver solder is that the copper will be annealed and the solder will go a dark colour.

If you want the polished copper look, you will never be able to achieve that with the temperatures required for silver solder.

The solder melts at @ 700C and copper anneals at @ 400C.

Hope this helps
 
Is this still ongoing

Tin 1/2" of the end of the pipe, flux the fitting sparingly, shove it together, heat, allow to cool.

No need to add anymore solder as the solder on the tinned pipe will transfer to the fitting.

It might not be watertight but it won't come apart.
 
Ok well after a little trial and error today I had great results from soldering the inside of the fittings.

I give up with the pictures I've uploaded but they've turned out upside down I'm afraid.
 

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Ok well after a little trial and error today I had great results from soldering the inside of the fittings.

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Easier soldering the outside of the pipe than the inside of the fitting but the result is the same.
Well done on getting those jars to hang there. Bet that was harder to do ;)
 
looking good
 
You could use "solder paint" if you can still get it. This was a paste of powdered solder and flux mixed. You apply to the joint and heat with a torch. Might work.
 
You could use "solder paint" if you can still get it. This was a paste of powdered solder and flux mixed. You apply to the joint and heat with a torch. Might work.

Not wras approved sorry to say
 
Light fittings don't have to be WRAS approved!

No but anyone looking at this thread thinking of using it on plumbing systems, you didn't say it couldn't be
 
You never know , if its being used in a controlled area , Bathroom / Kitchen !
But then would have to be submitted for testing to IP44 or whatever.
Seriously, no ones mentioned earth continuity, so adhesive would not be ok unless separate earth conductor is used.
 
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