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Cheers last!! An electrician wired up the immersion lol immersion’s don’t draw more than 13 amps, why would you need a 20 amp switch?
As Shaun and Best have already said, If the Volts drop the Amps rise.
3000W/240V=12.5A
3000W/230V=13.04A and so on.
I have come across many melted switches in the past, mainly due to circumstances. e.g. Customer uses immersion in summer rather than Boiler, therefore it's on a lot of the time.
In the cases I have seen it has been the fuse running hot that caused the issue. A fuse will not blow dead on its rating!
If the Voltage is good and the immersion is used as a back up every now and then, there is not normally a problem but it is worth knowing.
 
Twas I, many moons ago !

Apologies Mr Last! :oops:
Without trying to find the thread, I do think I recall it was indeed you who had informed me about it being wrong for 13amp spurs to a 3kw immersion.
Why are you not a Trusted Advisor on here yet, come to think of it?
 
Apologies Mr Last! :oops:
Without trying to find the thread, I do think I recall it was indeed you who had informed me about it being wrong for 13amp spurs to a 3kw immersion.
Why are you not a Trusted Advisor on here yet, come to think of it?

I must not be worthy! lol
 
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Hey Jay,

Tidy looking install, you’ve done really well to cram all that lot together in there.

Not looking for faults, but on my phone it looks like you have tee’d in the blow-off from the heating system at expansion vessel with the expansion relief blow-off at the inlet group?
 
Hey Jay,

Tidy looking install, you’ve done really well to cram all that lot together in there.

Not looking for faults, but on my phone it looks like you have tee’d in the blow-off from the heating system at expansion vessel with the expansion relief blow-off at the inlet group?

And ?
 
Didn’t know regs had changed to allow combining of potable and heating system discharge?
 
Didn’t know regs had changed to allow combining of potable and heating system discharge?

It's always been ok (last 5-10 years)
 
Hey Jay,

Tidy looking install, you’ve done really well to cram all that lot together in there.

Not looking for faults, but on my phone it looks like you have tee’d in the blow-off from the heating system at expansion vessel with the expansion relief blow-off at the inlet group?
Hey Mikeygas, I have yes. I wasn’t aware of any regs that disallowed this..
 
Okay guys thanks for the swift response i’ll Check back up as I was led to believe it contraves water regs as it could lead to cross contamination of potable water supply with heating water discharge.

(Hypothetical , worst case scenario, I know Lol) I.e blockage after where both pipes are tee’d in, heating system then discharges at 3 bar, then passing expansion relief valve at cold water inlet group could lead to backflow into cold water supply.
 
Okay guys thanks for the swift response i’ll Check back up as I was led to believe it contraves water regs as it could lead to cross contamination of potable water supply with heating water discharge.

(Hypothetical , worst case scenario, I know Lol) I.e blockage after where both pipes are tee’d in, heating system then discharges at 3 bar, then passing expansion relief valve at cold water inlet group could lead to backflow into cold water supply.
 
Just seen your reply Harvest!

Can you point me in the right direction to look, just interested!

Thanks.
 
Would Sod out of the tundish first :)
 
Not off the top of my head mate. But mould start with building regs g3.

Leave it with me and I will see what I can find
 
Read me hypothetical post Shaun :)

I said after where there tee’d, thus a blockage before the D1, not trying to play Devils advocate too much!
 
Cheers harvest, will check back in my last study book.

Last renewed my ticket in 2015/2016 so it had changed to include vented hot water as well.
 
Read me hypothetical post Shaun :)

I said after where there tee’d, thus a blockage before the D1, not trying to play Devils advocate too much!

What would block it

I could understand d2 blocking due to moss / other things also if d1 is blocked you have bigger issues than back flow you have a bomb :D
 
That’s why I said Hypothetical, worst case etc :D

Imagine if it was blocked, can you see what i’m trying to say about backflow, x-contamination etc?

Remember the water regs about disconnecting filling loops after topping up systems to prevent backflow.

Which i’m sure we all disconnect ;)
 
That’s why I said Hypothetical, worst case etc :D

Imagine if it was blocked, can you see what i’m trying to say about backflow, x-contamination etc?

Remember the water regs about disconnecting filling loops after topping up systems to prevent backflow.

Which i’m sure we all disconnect ;)

Don't think it would matter when half your house blows up (then some heating water would get into the mains anyway)
 
Okay guys thanks for the swift response i’ll Check back up as I was led to believe it contraves water regs as it could lead to cross contamination of potable water supply with heating water discharge.

(Hypothetical , worst case scenario, I know Lol) I.e blockage after where both pipes are tee’d in, heating system then discharges at 3 bar, then passing expansion relief valve at cold water inlet group could lead to backflow into cold water supply.
The inlet valve has a NRV inside so no chance of cross contamination.. also there is an air gap via the tundish so again, not much chance of backflow.. also the likelihood of a blockage is pretty much slim to never..
 
The D2 pipe will block easily at end if something gathered near the ground outlet, or if a gulley blocked on a stupid regulations method of the end of the pipe terminating below the gulley grid was used. That just air locks the D2 and water will come out of tundish
 
Check valves do fail Jay and let by.

I know that the set-up you have done will be fine, but i was just querying whether it was done to standard, as when I did my first G3 it was a no-no.

As said I will look up info or speak to CIPHE and post back.

Happy to be proved wrong :)
 
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