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Dear Chris.
Basically I want that guy to have a nice LOW temperature system, so that condensing boiler operates at the peak efficiency, and it also can be heated by the air/grouind source heat pump, without any futher radiators upgrades. -> So house is at 20 even when the rads are just warm (~40)...
The condensing boiler manual states, that you need to uprate your's rads ~2 times with the NORMAL (non-condensing) boiler to achieve peak efficiency. In this case those radiators are UNDERSIZED even for the normal non-condensing system - so another 1.5-2X timer uprate is needed.
In the end we need 2X*2X = 4X or so uprate.
PS: also do check the quality and quantity of the insulation, because ~78% of builder fraud is the quality and quantity of the insulation... In the UK I would also add "and radiator (under-)sizing"... Get the pro with FLIR to take some thermal pics of your's house when there is 0 or so outside.
When Uprating it is important to keep the ratio of radiator's sizes to actual rooms heat demand. - so it would simlify ballancing task.
PPS: My own room had one 1000x600 rad mounted 40 cm above the floor when I've moved in, and no insulation behind it in the 2m wide bay window. With LL consent I've put 2cm of the polystyrene insulation behind it (solid wall), lined it with paper/foil, added another 600x600 rad with the new TRV and inhibitor filling point on top corner, lowered it down to 12-13cm above the floor, and cold floor drafts problem fixed. Also I've got way wider dynamic range of the temps control in the room, using the TRV. And way cheaper than the 300-400KWh of electricity used up before by the oil filled rad...
BTW: When the landlady bought that house in 2006, there was a 1000x600 single convector rad on the internal wall, with no loft or bay window top insulation. No room thermostat, only vintage randal ticking timeswith. No wonders her's son had nearly frozen ones upon a time in the that room.
