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I am also confused to where the gas pipe has come from/going to?
Boiler was in airing cupboard directly below. They’ve decided to fit it in the loft now (which I don’t necessarily mind) but would like to have been consulted with on location etc. Have lost about 6 foot of storage space!
 
Boiler was in airing cupboard directly below. They’ve decided to fit it in the loft now (which I don’t necessarily mind) but would like to have been consulted with on location etc. Have lost about 6 foot of storage space!
It looks like it goes out the bottom of the boiler then up into the air? From the first pic
 
Not excusing the work done,but the original cylinder install wouldn’t have caused that issue with your original potterton,they have a flow switch which needs to operate before the boiler fires or you get dry fire lockout (unless it was stuck in the made position :()
 
I am clearly to tired. What is going on with me tonight??:p:pI am going home now anyway. I have had enough.:p
 
More pics, showing airing cupboard where original Potterton was and piping up to loft.

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Where did he learn to solder like that? I had a joint go wrong the other day and it ended up better than that.

Here's a safety one then. Did he make the holes in that Artex?

Artex of a certain age very often contains white asbestos (chrysotile asbestos). I wonder if he's qualified to be legally allowed to touch it and if the proper precautions were taken? How old is that Artex, do you think? Has it been sampled for asbestos? It may not contain asbestos, but potential asbestos containing materials (ACM's) should always be treated as if they did contain asbestos until proven otherwise. The proper precautions are quite stringent - see the HSE website on how asbestos is supposed to be handled - there is an article on textured coatings. In fairness, it does look as if he's broken the Artex, rather than drill it, so this will have released fewer fibres than drilling it, at least.
 
Where did he learn to solder like that? I had a joint go wrong the other day and it ended up better than that.

Here's a safety one then. Did he make the holes in that Artex?

Artex of a certain age very often contains white asbestos (chrysotile asbestos). I wonder if he's qualified to be legally allowed to touch it and if the proper precautions were taken? How old is that Artex, do you think? Has it been sampled for asbestos? It may not contain asbestos, but potential asbestos containing materials (ACM's) should always be treated as if they did contain asbestos until proven otherwise. The proper precautions are quite stringent - see the HSE website on how asbestos is supposed to be handled - there is an article on textured coatings. In fairness, it does look as if he's broken the Artex, rather than drill it, so this will have released fewer fibres than drilling it, at least.

Old flue hole
 
I've just realised that what I thought was a soil and vent pipe terminating in the loft is only a piece of soil pipe from the airing cupboard to the loft. Not sure what it is for, but at least it isn't what I thought it was.
 
The asbestos in artex supposedly cannot be released by drilling into it. Just got back off an asbestos course last week. The matrix is too tightly compressed. It's practically impossible to unlock it.

That was from the mouth of an asbestos guy who's been doing it for 40 odd years
 
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Didn't mean to do that was trying to quote. Still getting used to this new forum haha
 
Slightly off topic but is an 18kw enough for 12 rads and hot water? Smaller ones in bedroom, 3 of them towel rails.
 
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Slightly off topic but is an 18kw enough for 12 rads and hot water? Smaller ones in bedroom, 3 of them tower rails.

I would say your close too close needs working out

Heat loss each room and add 3-5kw for a copper cylinder or 15-20kw for an unvented one
 
I would say your close too close needs working out

Heat loss each room and add 3-5kw for a copper cylinder or 15-20kw for an unvented one
I would say your close too close needs working out

Heat loss each room and add 3-5kw for a copper cylinder or 15-20kw for an unvented one
Just added up all the current rads in the house using a KW calculator, came out as just over 10kw currently. Upstairs have older 600 x 400 single panels that seem to put out about 0.35 kw each. Should have a bit of headroom with 18KW.
 
If in time the coil was to pinhole in the cylinder the primary water would contaminate the secondary water. Also it wouldn't meet the regs regarding support of the cisterns from memory.
 
If in time the coil was to pinhole in the cylinder the primary water would contaminate the secondary water.

Exactly what would happen with a sealed system. I agree that it is better to have the cold water storage cistern at a higher pressure (height) than the F & E, but I asked this question on this forum and consensus was that there is no regulation on this (and, in this case, it would not really be practical to raise the existing cold water storage cistern to a higher level just in case, one day, the coil fails). I would have done the same as the installer has done.

Also it wouldn't meet the regs regarding support of the cisterns from memory.
Cistern must be fully supported on close boarding. Which the F & E seems to be. Looks like chipboard or OSB where I would prefer to see 18mm hardwood ply, but perhaps it's a matter of preference. The boarding is on three supports, so it won't be going anywhere, after all.

I am, though, suspicious that the combined cold feed and vent pipe coming out of it may not slope down away from the cistern as it should do. I would also expect the cistern to be lidded and well lagged when the work is completed.
 
Ok have sacked the guy and issued a notice for refund. Will see how we get on with that.

Had a separate emergency quote for relocation back to the original place (airing cupboard) by reputable company.

£2k is the cost. Is this reasonable?
 
You will find that most engineers will treat it as a complete new install. Even though the boiler is already there. Seems a little high but depends on what you are getting for that?
 
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