nozzle removing tool and bearings

[CXR100]

anybody use the nozzle removing tool that hwos sell? is it any good for the price they ask for it? also I recently replaced a motor and oil pump in a riello burner. I took the old motor out and it spins ok and nice and free id say, but the old oil pump is very stiff and there was a lot of brownish rust around where the drive coupling sits . what would have caused this?? and can I replace a motor in a oil pump or only in a motor? and how do I go about this? thanks

 

[rpm]

C3, isn`t that high speed or high tempreture bearings?
When fitting to shaft only it`s best to use a hollow drift that covers the whole of the inner race rather than the North / South / East and West approach with a pin punch and if it`s shaft & housing at the same time then a hollow drift that covers both inner and outer race`s.

Still got selection of 2 & 3 legged pullers somewhere, I`ll dig them out and if still good I`ll put them in the For Sale forum.

 

[Bunker]

C3 is just the clearance inside for the expansion of the balls, ideal if on a rough running environment like a wheel or timing chain but our application is smooth so relatively stress free.

C3, isn`t that high speed or high tempreture bearings?
When fitting to shaft only it`s best to use a hollow drift that covers the whole of the inner race rather than the North / South / East and West approach with a pin punch and if it`s shaft & housing at the same time then a hollow drift that covers both inner and outer race`s.

Still got selection of 2 & 3 legged pullers somewhere, I`ll dig them out and if still good put them in the For Sale forum.

 

[rpm]

Yeah that`s it, allows for high tempretures. Used to do a lot of commercial motors and fans.

 

[Best]

Use an ordinary brass 1/2" old ball valve tail (without the nut obviously) to slip over the motor shaft & hammer it with a mallet to tap the bearings home. Fits perfectly against the solid centre of bearing - so won't damage the new bearing.