Pressure testing - how do I do this ?

[edwardk]

Hi there - currently putting in copper / yorkshire 15mm / 22mm pipework in my house for hot/cold and central heating.

How do I pressure test this ?

Should I be testing it in sections as I go or do you cap it all off at the end and then pressure test ?
Or both ?

Also my brother mentioned that you can do this by hand with a hand pump but another mate used a compressor I think ?

Any tips on kit to buy for this ? So far have tectite compression fit caps.

Presumably this is something that I can do myself ?

Thanks,
Ed

 

[Plumbstar Tom]

depends on your experience with regards to whether you test in sections or at the end

and again price wise for the test kit, normally i use a hydraulic action pump

 

[Alanc]

You could link all your pipes together then leave off a Tee for a pressure gauge/ hand pump.

your home should NOT be occupied during the test for safety reasons.

Al

 

[edwardk]

I am inexperienced so I guess if I test twice that would be a good failsafe ?
i.e. test in sections as I go then test each full line once completed.

As for a "hydraulic action pump" do you mean something like this :
Monument Dry Pressure Test Kit - NoLinkingToThis, Where the Trade Buys

I guess I would need something like a bike pump with a schrader head ?

Or is there a better bit of kit to buy ?
I need something reliable but after this house the only bit of plumbing I'll be doing is maybe helping my brother with his house.

I guess dry testing is what I want. Easier to fix the joins.
In the case of a leaking join can I just heat it up again and add more solder or should I heat it up - remove it - clean the pipe ends and then re-flux and solder in a fresh fitting ?
Ed

 

[Alanc]

This pump here would do the job, you may be able to hire it for the day.
Rothenberger RP30 Pressure Testing Pump - NoLinkingToThis, Where the Trade Buys
Al

 

[edwardk]

Any thoughts on this one ? : Rothenberger Dry Pressure Testing Kit - 6.7105 Se::Tools4Trade.com

Just need a foot pump now...

 

[WHPES]

You could probably do it with a bike pump or a car foot pump.

In the trade we usually use a wet test pump such as a Hilmor or Rigid pump as it is easier to see pressure drops when the system is full of water (water doensn't compress).

 

[migoplumber]

or an air compressor from shed for 30quid.

 

[edwardk]

Guess I could go the route of a little wet pump thing for about £150.
Then try and pass it on or flog it on eBay.

Will have a look for Hilmor or Rigid etc.

Guess wet test is better - should have thought of the air/water compression thing... doh !

Ed

 

[migoplumber]

you do the air pressure test first, that way of you have a leak nothing gets wet !
then a good 6 bar water test !

 

[edwardk]

Thanks - from looking at the hand ones with a tray/dial/pump it looks like you could do the air test with the same kit then put water in the tray and do the wet test ?

Can you do the dry and wet test with the same kit ?

Sorry prob an obvious question but all new to me

Ed

Is this one ok ? http://www.tradecounterdirect.com/p...71&cat=PLUMBING TOOLS: Pressure Testing &pg=1

[DLMURL]https://www.coopersdirect.com/pageview.php?page=category_show&ecommerce_category=Rothenberger+Pressure+Test+Pumps[/DLMURL]

Went for the RP30 from these guys (£93 with p+p in the end) - they wanted £141 locally...

 

[edwardk]

Right - got the Rothenberger RP30 and had a quick question about it. The end is a screw thread - how is this connected to the copper ? I have a spare locksheild kicking around can I just screw the tapered end of the lockshield into the RP30 then attach it to the copper ?

Or is there a compression fitting that I should be using ?

I was going to cap off the rest of the pipework with Tectite caps and test each run individually by pressuring it with air to about 4 bar for about 30 minutes - correct approach ?

Then do the same with water.

Cheers
Ed

 

[fuzzy]

I have never bothered with a dry test or ever seen it done on a wet system. Makes sense i suppose. Have you never had the problem with it holding air but not water? I have seen un soldered fittings hold for years!!!!!!!!!!

 

[john.bell55]

Right - got the Rothenberger RP30 and had a quick question about it. The end is a screw thread - how is this connected to the copper ? I have a spare locksheild kicking around can I just screw the tapered end of the lockshield into the RP30 then attach it to the copper ?

Or is there a compression fitting that I should be using ?

I was going to cap off the rest of the pipework with Tectite caps and test each run individually by pressuring it with air to about 4 bar for about 30 minutes - correct approach ?

Then do the same with water.

Cheers
Ed

You can use a JG Speedfit straight, easy to disconnect from the tested pipework.
Pushfit end caps will do for the ends, (easy to disconnect after the test)

 

[tackleburger]

If you are going to do the air test only raise it to 1 bar at the very most and 30 minutes is plenty. Test the pipework to 5 bar wet and leave for a good couple of hours if you can. You need a 1/2 bsp mail iron to 15mm compression fitting for the roth cost about a quid from any merchant and no you can't air test with the rp 30 it only works with water.

 

[edwardk]

Got a 1/2" BSP male / 15mm tectite straight join and it seems to fit - not sure if they saw me coming but it cost 4 quid ?!

Will have a go at wet testing tomorrow.... might end up a little drenched... not overly confident with my joints but see what happens.

Thanks for the advice.
Ed

 

[Plucky]

I dry test with a compressor first. Cost about £40 from B & Q.

I have on a couple of occasions found a small drop on a test with air but once full with water system is fine. Odd.

 

[oilman]

an easy explanation is air think of 02 ie 2 molecules side by side ie narrow x wide
h20 water is triangular in construction so will always be bigger and not get out of tiny gaps

 

[WHPES]

You need to do your tests in accordance with BS 6700 (if my memory serves me right).

The reason why wet testing is used as opposed to dry testing is that liquids cannot be compressed in everyday life (as opposed to quantum physics) and so it is easier to see a pressure drop.

 

[tackleburger]

Using a compressor is foolhardy, dangerous (air compresses) and wholly unecessary. A quick air test with a footpump to 1 bar is more than enough if it passes that get the wet tester on it and raise the pressure nice and steady.

 

[WHPES]

Yes I missed that post. I would change "plucky" to "foolhardy"!

There's too much stored energy in compressed air which would make it dangerous if it failed!

Use the proper kit!

 

[edwardk]

Sorry for all the 'probably-obvious' questions but here is another one...

Anyone care to write a few lines on a step by step approach to wet testing ?
My plan was to cap off and then fill from the highest point - then compress with the wet test kit (Rothenberger RP30).
Leave it at 5 bar wet for two hours.
Bit stumped on releasing the pressure as I can see me doing this wrong and drenching the house...
lso obviously drain off from the lowest point - guess you just take the cap off and fit a hosepipe to drain outside?

Also - what is the easiest way to ease off tectite caps ?

Ed

 

[WHPES]

The test pump has a wheel valve which lets the pressure out.

You need to follow the British Standard for testing. Can't remember exactly off the top of my head but there are different tests depending on if you have any plastic components in your system. Will look for it later tonight as I need to refresh my own memory anyway.

The test pump should have a wheel on it to let the pressure off at the end.

 

[john.bell55]

Non plastic...1 1/2 times operating pressure for 1 hour.
Plastic.... Here is a lift out of John Guest Site
On completion of the plumbing and heating system it is essential that system checking and a hydraulic wet test takes place. Connections to boilers, radiators and sanitary ware should first be capped or plugged.
Testing Should be carried out at 2 bar for 10 minutes followed by 10
bar for 10 minutes.
This testing combined with other relevant checks, should reveal most system problems. Any components within the system not designed to
take these pressures should be disconnected.

Cheers
P.S. check mains pressure, e.g. 3 bar then test would be 4.5 bar

 

[edwardk]

All copper with yorkshire fittings - no plastic.

Guess you cap off at rads rather than include them in the test ?

Thanks
Ed