Pressure testing - how do I do this ?

[sparky]

Link the whole system to be tested with plastic. Link hot and cold at at least one point and link rads to hot and cold somewhere. All other open ends put a stop en on.

 

[fuzzy]

Sorry for all the 'probably-obvious' questions but here is another one...

Anyone care to write a few lines on a step by step approach to wet testing ?
My plan was to cap off and then fill from the highest point - then compress with the wet test kit (Rothenberger RP30).
Leave it at 5 bar wet for two hours.
Bit stumped on releasing the pressure as I can see me doing this wrong and drenching the house...
lso obviously drain off from the lowest point - guess you just take the cap off and fit a hosepipe to drain outside?

Also - what is the easiest way to ease off tectite caps ?

Ed

5bar is too much. Rule of thunb is 1.5times the working pressure for an hour. If this is a heating system the direct cold will give you the pressure you need often and enough without needing a test pump.
drain offs at the bottom of the system are for draining off

 

[edwardk]

Right only just got round to doing the pressure test due to one thing and another.

Have it set at 4 bar and am planning on leaving it for an hour.

This approach ok ?

(central heating - all copper)

So far no leaks Give it time - am expecting a few...

Ed

 

[kirkgas]

register with ukcopperclub, they have tons of download info, great section on pressure testing, hire a pressure tester dont buy one, if it costs £150 you will be lucky to get half back, speedy, HSS etc will have the correct machine, rough guide is to test at 1.5 x actual pressure for 1hr (if no plastic pipe or connections on the system) i would test once when finished as long as there is access to all pipe and connections (a "just in case" emotion), if other work will mean pipework being boxed in etc then best to test as you go,

DOH, dont know why i didnt read/notice the rest of the posts on this, all my advise is too late (apart from ukcopperclub which is superb, and will come in handy for something else) only thing i would add is dont test plastic fitting at 1.5 x pressure for an hour, it might blow off and take someone's eye out

 

[edwardk]

Thanks - I am currently testing at this very moment with an RP30 at 4 bar pressure.

Been that pressure for the last hour so am guessing that the flow circuit is ok.

Off to test the return circuit now.

Was going to link it all up but I thought that I could control a leak in each run more easily and have the time to test.

As for 1.5 times actual pressure - what is normal / standard actual pressure ?

All the local plumbers say pressure is 'quite high' where I am located and recommend having a pressure regulator.
Am going to fit one but am guessing that this is on the cold only in pipe - either just after it enters the house (eie under kitchen sink where it changes from outside alcathene to copper) or just at the boiler connection end of the cold feed ?

 

[oilman]

The mains pressure is different all over the area to identify your local pressure you need to get a tester most come with a 3/4" female thread to connect to a garden tap. Just had another thought on your RP30 connect that to the supply mains after the check valve and it will indicate the incoming mains pressure, do check that the thumbwheel is turned off first though.

 

[Colin2010]

Hi Guys
First post and its a question regarding a Rothenberger RP-50 test pump
What type of grease do you use to lubricate the piston via the grease nipple? silicon, lithium or something else?
I don`t see anything mentioned in the destructions and i didn`t want to risk using the wrong type in case it eats the seals. I`m not 100% sure how to tell when it needs greasing. The handle seems to require a decent old upward jolt to get it moving initially so i guess thats probably a good indicator?

Would appreciate some advice from someone who has the t-shirt and hat

Best regards
colin

 

[Bernie2]

Err!

We did not pressure test much of our work in many of the companies I worked for, except when asked.

The companies outlook seemed to be simple "Your a professional Plumber, your work should be of such a quality it doesn't leak" and "If it does leak you are responsible!"

Basically it meant you would probably get the sack if you had leaks.

Bit crazy really, how could you test pipework to 1.5 times max working pressure without a test?

But there you are!

And I may add, the Plumbing companies where often big specialist contractors, doing industrial/commercial work, not small domestic contractors.

Funny really, after working on the industrial for a few years with industrial sized pipes, going back on to domestic was like working with string for pipes.

But then the only difference really was the size of pipe. They would throw a "comic" at you and say "Go do that". Sometimes there would be nothing there bar an empty field and you where required to imagine and work out before the building was built where your first fix pipes would wind up. And of course you where also required to install them.

So you either got it right or you didn't. If you where to far out, it was time to think about looking for another job.

So if your going to work on the likes of new build industrial work, try to pick up some basic surveying techniques, they are always handy anyway.

 

[Dan]

I'm just bumping this thread for no particular reason. If it isn't a current topic, don't worry about it, just ignore it and it'll move off the forum list before long. If it is a topic you'd like to reply to though, go ahead.

 

[jambo]

Quick question on this how is the braided hose on RP30 connected to hit & cold pipe work for testing same question for central heating pipe work

 

[Ch4 plumbing]

Quick question on this how is the braided hose on RP30 connected to hit & cold pipe work for testing same question for central heating pipe work

Normally a male copper to iron (1/2")

 

[rpm]

Quick question on this how is the braided hose on RP30 connected to hit & cold pipe work for testing same question for central heating pipe work

Look at post #15 mate.

Opps Ch4 got there first.

 

[jambo]

right I get that but connecting this fitting to the system would it have to be teed in with a service valve then once connected and system then fill

 

[ShaunCorbs]

right I get that but connecting this fitting to the system would it have to be teed in with a service valve then once connected and system then fill

No if it's got a return filter if heating or a tap if cold or hot water

 

[jambo]

not quite getting what your meaning if you could elaborate on it please would be appreciated

 

[ShaunCorbs]

not quite getting what your meaning if you could elaborate on it please would be appreciated

The system got an external filling loop / return filter ??