Range Tribune HE - not allowing boiler to heat

[medders]

Hi all,

I have a range tribune HE and an icos ideal boiler, and I cannot get any hot water from the boiler for hot water. The central heating seems fine though.

It seems that the water is being heated by the boiler and getting to the tank as the feed from the boiler is really hot. The feed back the the boiler is also really hot - but it doent seem that any hot water is getting into the tank from the boiler. The immersion heater works fine, and the motorised valves open and close on the boiler firing up.
After a couple of minutes the boiler just stops burning as if it thinks the water is already hot enough. The automatic bypass valve is set to about 0.35 bar (not sure if thats right or not.

As far as I know its in a pre built formation as its in a new build. One primary coil is really hot (right) but the other is cold.

I have run out of ideas really. We have only just moved in and as far as I can tell the system was working fine before we moved in.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Matt

 

[Gray0689]

Hi all,

I have a range tribune HE and an icos ideal boiler, and I cannot get any hot water from the boiler for hot water. The central heating seems fine though.

It seems that the water is being heated by the boiler and getting to the tank as the feed from the boiler is really hot. The feed back the the boiler is also really hot - but it doent seem that any hot water is getting into the tank from the boiler. The immersion heater works fine, and the motorised valves open and close on the boiler firing up.
After a couple of minutes the boiler just stops burning as if it thinks the water is already hot enough. The automatic bypass valve is set to about 0.35 bar (not sure if thats right or not.

As far as I know its in a pre built formation as its in a new build. One primary coil is really hot (right) but the other is cold.

I have run out of ideas really. We have only just moved in and as far as I can tell the system was working fine before we moved in.

Can anyone help?

Thanks

Matt

0.35 on bypass valve to low
Sealed system should be roughly 1 bar cold about 1 1/2 to 2 bar hot
Make sure there is no other valve on coil there could be a gate valve for use as a throttle valve if so could to closed
A picture of cylinder would be helpfull

 

[medders]

Hmmm the valve setting only goes to 0.5.

The pressure in the red tank is set to 1.5 bar though. See image below.

 

[ecowarm]

0.35 on bypass valve to low
Sealed system should be roughly 1 bar cold about 1 1/2 to 2 bar hot
Make sure there is no other valve on coil there could be a gate valve for use as a throttle valve if so could to closed
A picture of cylinder would be helpfull

Don't take too much notice of this.

Try opening the lockshield on the primary and see what happens

 

[Gray0689]

Don't take too much notice of this.

Try opening the lockshield on the primary and see what happens

Yes I'm sorry looked wrong ecowarm is right forget about that
But check the valve bellow your fill loop the silver braded hose make sure it's open
Cheers ecowarm

 

[medders]

Thanks for the replies - Im not sure how i can check that - but all i know is that either side of that valve is equally hot. Surely that means that it is open, right?

Also what is the lockshield? Can you give a 'close to / above / below' reference?

 

[Gray0689]

Just get a radiator bleed key and turn it anti clockwise to check is the motorised valve opening on coil

 

[Gray0689]

It's the brass valve where the fill loop turns down.
to the left as you look at picture of the air bleeder the thing with the red cap on top
Hope this helps

 

[medders]

yeah valve seems to be opening on cue when the boiler starts to fire. ill give it a go tomorrow - thanks for your help.

8.10 am - the boiler has stayed on now for 15 mins after i opened up that valve properly... fingers crossed!!!

Thanks again for the help.

 

[DanD]

Hi.....I currently have the same problem as the original poster above. I have an Ideal icos boiler and a Range Tribune HE which will only supply hot water when the heating is on. If on the 'water only setting' the boiler does not fire up. I have looked at the two way valve and it does not appear stuck, and the small red wheel on the unit does rotate, which indicates the valve is free also. However, the wheel rotates until the flat part is not visible which is when the valve is shut.

Is it possible that the unit PCB is telling the boiler not to fire because it is automatically shutting? And, if this unit is faulty, where can I get a reasonably priced replacement? I Have attached some pics to help.



Thanks in anticipation of your time and effort.

Dan

 

[gassed up]

Good evening all,

I've jumped onto this thread because the pictures are of an identical set up to a job that i have looked at, minus the control unit which you an see at the following link.

BMR410 Controller - Kieback & Peter - PDF Catalogue | Technical Documentation | Brochure

The programmer / weather optimization control unit is made by a company called "Kieback and Peter", very hi tech with the room stat and weather compensation sensors connected in cat5 cable. It is a complete nightmare to program, the hot water setting is referred to as "drinking water (hot) and it has lost its settings during power cuts a few times, so the agency has asked me to change it for a more standard programmer with wireless stat.

Its looks like it should be relatively straight forward to convert based on the rest of the controls and existing wiring, although what i cant get my head around is that the 2 port to dhw is a motor on / motor off type and this is an unvented cylinder.

Shouldn't this be a spring return valve? and seeing as this is a pre plumbed set up, surely Range wouldn't have got that wrong.

Would be good to hear any thoughts on this, particularly if anyone has worked on this set up before.

 

[townfanjon]

Range used to use honeywell valves, but moved over to the sunvic gear about 8 /9 years ago, stats sunvic , programmer. Zone valves etc, they were cheap , that says it all .
They then moved on to danfoss, which I believe they are still using today.


If I get one on sunvics, i always advise to go to honeywell , it is a straight forward swap over.