Red sludge in Openvented CH system | Central Heating Forum | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Red sludge in Openvented CH system in the Central Heating Forum area at Plumbers Forums

Messages
7
I have flushed a CH system removed each Rad and removed any residue of black sludge filled the system up and treated with inhibitor. However after 2 days the water in the Overhead tank is gone red. The Ground floor rads are piping hot and the upstairs are Luke warm bleed the rads still no joy and the water gone red in overhead tank concerns me. How can I get rid of red sludge. Boiler is working fine and the pump seem to be running smooth
Any advice will be
 
Hi
It’s an open vented system with an over head water tank in the loft. Why the rusty/ red water in the over head tank. I thought this is where the water gets fed into the system.🤔
 
When the heating is on the water in the pipes/radiators expands and goes up the expansion pipe and into that small feed/expansion tank bringing with it the rusty film.
When the heating is off the water cools and it’s volume contracts, this “lost volume” is made up by water feeding back into the pipes/radiators from small feed/expansion tank.
That’s how the rust can end up in your little tank.
 
That make a lot of sense. Does this mean I will keep getting this due to rust in radiators or can I add twice as much inhibitor after doing one more full system drain and fill up with fresh clean water + 2x inhibitor. I only have 6 rad in total smallest at 600x600 and largest at 1800x600
 
Passive draining and refilling is probably not going to be enough to clean out a vented system that has a lot of sludge in it. You're probably better off getting the system 'power flushed' and then converted to 'unvented' operation by a professional.

Inhibitor won't actually stop corrosion in a vented system, but it will slow it down. Converting to unvented operation stops the oxygen getting in (by dissolving in the expansion tank water).
 
Passive draining and refilling is probably not going to be enough to clean out a vented system that has a lot of sludge in it. You're probably better off getting the system 'power flushed' and then converted to 'unvented' operation by a professional.

Inhibitor won't actually stop corrosion in a vented system, but it will slow it down. Converting to unvented operation stops the oxygen getting in (by dissolving in the expansion tank water).
Hi Chuck
Thanks for the advise just wanted to know by converting to a “unvented system” will I still retain the existing hot water cylinder and just the pipe work will be mains water fed rather then overhead expansion tank.🤔
 
Hi Chuck
Thanks for the advise just wanted to know by converting to a “unvented system” will I still retain the existing hot water cylinder and just the pipe work will be mains water fed rather then overhead expansion tank.🤔
I was referring to converting the central heating 'system water' (the stuff that carries heat around the house) to a sealed/unvented configuration. This can normally be done without changing the existing system components (boiler, hot water cylinder, etc.) It involves the relatively minor operation of removing the feed/expansion tank in the roof and installing the sealed expansion vessel that takes over its function somewhere convenient. The plumber will also need to provide a 'filling loop' and air-bleed point, and check that there is a suitable pressure relief valve in or near the boiler and install one if necessary.

In my experience, converting to a sealed system won't 'cause' new leaks but it may manifest pre-existing minor leaks. Although annoying, this is a good thing from the point of view of system life. This is because a continual trickle of fresh 'top up water' into an open system to compensate for a small leak somewhere will cause corrosion.

This is unrelated to another modernisation, i.e. converting the 'domestic hot water' system that supplies showers and taps. This is a bigger job that does normally require a new cylinder and often modification/replacement of outlets such as showers and taps.

It's difficult to give any more-specific advice without a site visit. I suggest you get a local heating engineer to review the possibilities and quote.
 
Last edited:
I was referring to converting the central heating 'system water' (the stuff that carries heat around the house) to a sealed/unvented configuration. This can normally be done without changing the existing system components (boiler, hot water cylinder, etc.) It involves the relatively minor operation of removing the feed/expansion tank in the roof and installing the sealed expansion vessel that takes over its function somewhere convenient. The plumber will also need to provide a 'filling loop' and air-bleed point, and check that there is a suitable pressure relief valve in or near the boiler and install one if necessary.

In my experience, converting to a sealed system won't 'cause' new leaks but it may manifest pre-existing minor leaks. Although annoying, this is a good thing from the point of view of system life. This is because a continual trickle of fresh 'top up water' into an open system to compensate for a small leak somewhere will cause corrosion.

This is unrelated to another modernisation, i.e. converting the 'domestic hot water' system that supplies showers and taps. This is a bigger job that does normally require a new cylinder and often modification/replacement of outlets such as showers and taps.

It's difficult to give any more-specific advice without a site visit. I suggest you get a local heating engineer to review the possibilities and quote.
Thanks Chuck for the elaborate explanation really appreciate it. You seem to be very passionate in what you do.
 

Similar plumbing topics

1/4 turn black knob on both. open bleed screw...
Replies
7
Views
830
    • Like
Alpha 2/3 manual. Shows variant with air...
Replies
8
Views
1K
Yep, that's what I meant (as per attached...
Replies
7
Views
1K
Thanks, I shall take a look in that case and...
Replies
21
Views
3K
Back
Top