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bikeman01

My Honeywell 3 way valve has failed again. Time and time again it is the gear mechanism that wears and fails, I seem to have to change it every 2 years.

They are very expensive for such an unreliable part so this time I want to change it for something different. Is there a direct replacement for the valve head from another manufacturer that fits the valve?

Alternatively, is there a more reliable replacement.

In the meantime it wont stay in the mid position because the gear keeps jumping so the question is how can i rewire it to stop it trying but keep power to the pump/boiler etc.

Thanks
 
I had considered that but the valve is so easy to move, no stiffness at all.
 
Hmmm just wondering why it would be eating heads. The Honeywell valves are top notch imo. It's certainly not a big job to swap the hole unit.
 
There's something else wrong - Honeywell motorised valves (heads and bodies) are bulletproof in normal usage.
 
Try a new motor in the valve head. Or there are some honeywell valve body comparable ones available... But like others have said, honeywell a very good make of valve definitely change head & body.
 
There's something else wrong - Honeywell motorised valves (heads and bodies) are bulletproof in normal usage.

Really? I've replaced them regularly in every house I've ever lived in. Sometimes the motors go but mostly it's the crappy gear mechanism.

I also asked at work today and almost every person without exception had had one replaced.
 
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Really? I've replaced them regularly in every house I've ever lived in. I also asked at work today and almost every person without exception had had one replaced.

Just looked at our return in warranty stats for last year. Based on our two year warranty, returns on motorised valves for Honeywell were 4 per 1000 sold. That compares favourably with the 7 per 1000 return rate for the other premium brand and the 22 per 1000 return rate for the budget brand.
 
Really? I've replaced them regularly in every house I've ever lived in. Sometimes the motors go but mostly it's the crappy gear mechanism.

I also asked at work today and almost every person without exception had had one replaced.

just remember everything has a finite life, if you use salus or iflo, you'll believe that honeywells are the bees knees if a few months time
 
just remember everything has a finite life, if you use salus or iflo, you'll believe that honeywells are the bees knees if a few months time

But the finite life of a honeywell motorized valve, in a properly wired up and relatively clean domestic system ought to be 10 - 20 years, not 10 - 20 months. Thats why I said I thought something else was wrong.
 
Get your engineer in go find out why this is happening . Sometimes corrosion inside the pipes along with sludge can impede the motors job of opening n closing the valve and with lots of restrictions can ware on the motor and shorten it's life span. Aswell as you may not be getting the good from your fuels if pipes need flushed.
 
As mentioned that is not the norm for Honeywell valves. The generally last a lot longer. You have either been very unlucky with faulty unit or something else is a miss.

Change the whole body and head and also have electrics checked just in case.
Honeywell really are the best of the bunch and given choice I would not fit anything else.
Danfoss and drayton are a bit cheaper though.
 
But the finite life of a honeywell motorized valve, in a properly wired up and relatively clean domestic system ought to be 10 - 20 years, not 10 - 20 months. Thats why I said I thought something else was wrong.

My two Honeywell V4043 valves have been working for over 20 years although the motors have failed on both of them, but they were easily replaced.

I suppose I have just signed their death warrant.......
 
I will take onboard the suggestions, thanks.

I noticed that when the heating is on the honeywell motor is by design permanently engaged wasting electricity and getting very hot. Also the gear springs are way stronger than they need to be putting unnecessary strain on the gears. No wonder they fail. A very poor design. I think Honeywell are taking the **** charging £100+ for these things.

I've now bought a TNS valve which I hope will be more reliable.
 
I will take onboard the suggestions, thanks.

I noticed that when the heating is on the honeywell motor is by design permanently engaged wasting electricity and getting very hot. Also the gear springs are way stronger than they need to be putting unnecessary strain on the gears. No wonder they fail. A very poor design. I think Honeywell are taking the **** charging £100+ for these things.

I've now bought a TNS valve which I hope will be more reliable.

The Honeywell 3 port valve is an engineering marvel and, as others have pointed out,usually very reliable. 25 years plus in normal operation. It might be worthwhile system for sludge in addition to electrical checks otherwise your replacement may go the same way.
 
I will take onboard the suggestions, thanks.

I noticed that when the heating is on the honeywell motor is by design permanently engaged wasting electricity and getting very hot. Also the gear springs are way stronger than they need to be putting unnecessary strain on the gears. No wonder they fail. A very poor design. I think Honeywell are taking the **** charging £100+ for these things.
I've now bought a TNS valve which I hope will be more reliable.
Not being funny but what precise part of the suggestions given will you be taking onboard ?

Me thinks you had already made up your mind before you posted but thanks for your import anyway.
 
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Why not box it up send it back to Honeywell and ask them what is going on sure that R&D dept would like to see it,
 
To be fair I have been to some failed modern honeywell 2 ports. Etc, motors .. I think there not made as well as the older stuff! Im pretty sure there is some planned obsolescence going on...

Its the same with drayton! There 522 day programmers used to be bulletproof, but iv have had modern ones go wrong within 12 months a couple times now & the motor valves used to last 10 years easily but have changed these a couple years later too...

These company's could sell you a valve that would last 10/15 years, but there's more money in selling you a valve that lasts 2/3 years & rely on repeat changing of like for like valves... Its all about the money
 
Yes the wonders of modern technology, makes you think, old cast iron boilers, controls, etc. lasting 40 + years, now we have moved into the wonderful world of electronics , condensing boilers, digital controls and we are lucky if any of it lasts for 2 years, and they call it progress,
 
The Honeywell 3 port valve is an engineering marvel and, as others have pointed out,usually very reliable. 25 years plus in normal operation. It might be worthwhile system for sludge in addition to electrical checks otherwise your replacement may go the same way.

I bought a Team replacement
TEAMS MOTORISED ZONE VALVES & HEADS DIRECT HONEYWELL REPLACEMENT FOR V4073 V4043 | eBay

As far as I'm concerned anyone who says something made with springs and gears in 2015 is an engineering marvel is a
:hurray: luddite.

I doubt there would be sludge in a 5 year old system but a
s I said in a prev post the valve moves freely. It's the :clap: gear system, it wears, I can see it wobbling about and slipping under tension.
 
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Not being funny but what precise part of the suggestions given will you be taking onboard ?

Me thinks you had already made up your mind before you posted but thanks for your import anyway.


Actually my original post asked for recomended alternatives and asked how to rewire to temp bypass it. Neither Q was answered, I just got retorts about how f'in great honeywell's kit is.

I have now bypassed the gearbox and motor and I have heating back while I wait for the new valve.
 
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