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Might have to resort to a plastic part 2.

was thinking that can you get a decent one because the ones ive seen are crud but then my thinking is that can still back up water level will have to be a bit higher but could still happen
 
the position of where the water exits the valve...
 
was thinking that can you get a decent one because the ones ive seen are crud but then my thinking is that can still back up water level will have to be a bit higher but could still happen
Even if they have a piped overflow set too high the water level would normally spill over the syphon in to the pan before it reached the outlet on a part 2.
 
I am so happy we do not have such issues in Germany we hardly have tanks in the loft ... Gravity dies out there ... Most of the time we have geberit frames for toilets ...
 
Alright, talked enough ...

For me is clear now I will use part 2 including a double check valve instead isolation valve and I am on the safe side. That's all I wanted to know cheers all for the massive help
You don't need a dcv if using a part 2
 
Even if they have a piped overflow set too high the water level would normally spill over the syphon in to the pan before it reached the outlet on a part 2.

it does now with a part 1 thats what i couldn't understand
 
What will happen in the to me if I use a wrong float valve ?
 
I am so happy we do not have such issues in Germany we hardly have tanks in the loft ... Gravity dies out there ... Most of the time we have geberit frames for toilets ...
Yes and surface mounted issolators for almost everything and the little magnetic tile panels in the side of the bath to hide the floor gulley, loads of bathrooms I have been to in germany have the washing machine in them too. You do lots of things differently many of them better by design.
 
thnx guys looks like ive got the job do doing them :(
 
Yes and surface mounted issolators for almost everything and the little magnetic tile panels in the side of the bath to hide the floor gulley, loads of bathrooms I have been to in germany have the washing machine in them too. You do lots of things differently many of them better by design.

Yeah that's true ... That's why I struggle sometimes with British standards. Yes washing machine is most of the time in the bathroom too ... Also we have got 220v in bathrooms not 16v for shaving ;)
 
Alright, talked enough ...

For me is clear now I will use part 2 including a double check valve instead isolation valve and I am on the safe side. That's all I wanted to know cheers all for the massive help

I'm not sure if you missed out or worded this wrong but you should always use a service valve \ isolation valve
Before any appliance\tap\cwsc... then any check valves or other valves required

As every outlet should have the ability to be independently isolated although not always possible or practical
 
Another reason for having to use part 2 is often you have to bend the brass arm in order to set the water level correctly and this, as far as regs go, is not acceptable as it weakens the arm which could become brittle and break...

That's one reason I heard, - yet when you think about it, to replace a nice solid all brass part 1 valve with a part 2 brass valve will mean you have a diaphragm washer in it that will fail in a fairly short time, plus a plastic pin that can jam, plus an awful silly water outlet made of plastic
that can crack or snap off and shoot high pressure water straight up when valve opens. Bad job in a toilet cistern or worse in any tank with no lid.
Not an improvement IMO. An overflow on a cwt can & should be fitted at same level or just a tad below ballvalve to prevent water passing the ballvalve through threads or rising above it.
These modern ideas are just stupid & probably often invented from Europe.
 
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I'm not sure if you missed out or worded this wrong but you should always use a service valve \ isolation valve
Before any appliance\tap\cwsc... then any check valves or other valves required

As every outlet should have the ability to be independently isolated although not always possible or practical
If only this was the case.. But worse still when people use the all plastic pushfit valves and the plastic slotted bit you turn sheers and renders it unusable.. *grunt* I hate them!
 
A tank is a receptacle for storing water and an air gap is what it says.
Neither know if their purpose is to flush a WC , feed a DHW cylinder or act as F&E.
Can anyone explain why a ball valve deemed safe for the latter two is unsafe on a WC cistern.
As for bending the arm, I have yet to break one but often ripple a copper tube. If this logic continues the commercial interests that sell us fittings will persuade the regulators that bending tube should be banned.
 
"You shouldn't put ideas into my head".
And the sad thing is Ray if you suggested it some committee would approve it.
 
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