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Discuss System Upgrade in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

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jaydebruyne

Plumbers Arms member
Plumber
Gas Engineer
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2,718
My brother has just bought his first house and it currently has a conventional gravity system with a standard boiler (old 15 year old gloworm).

Mains pressure/flow rate is 3.5bar/14lpm.

2 floors (ground and 1st), 5 rad system. 1 bathroom, 1 toilet, 1 kitchen.

I've recommended a combi system as he wants rid of the cylinder and loft tanks, which I'm planning to install for him as soon as I get my gas ticket (hopefully by end of the month).

All the cold outlets are on mains already.

I've assisted on 2 upgrades from conventional to combi but was unable to always watch what the guy was doing re: connecting pipework.

So I was looking for some advice really on undertaking a task like this and methods/tips etc.

Cheers in advance
 
Its a tiny system! Why not just rip out the lot and start from scratch.
He will thank you for it in the long run...
 
Its a tiny system! Why not just rip out the lot and start from scratch.
He will thank you for it in the long run...
I did actually think about doing that ...
 
If its an old system and the water in is is crappy. It would be best to repipe the lot and could be done in the time you would otherwise take to flush it out.

If you do an upgrade (I call them conversions. A combi is seldom an upgrage....)

Things to look for
Is the system fully pumped? Or does it have gravity hw circs?
Do any rads heat up when hw only is selected?

The answers to these questions will point you in the right direction for altering the system [emoji6]
 
If its an old system and the water in is is crappy. It would be best to repipe the lot and could be done in the time you would otherwise take to flush it out.

If you do an upgrade (I call them conversions. A combi is seldom an upgrage....)

Things to look for
Is the system fully pumped? Or does it have gravity hw circs?
Do any rads heat up when hw only is selected?

The answers to these questions will point you in the right direction for altering the system [emoji6]
Its fully pumped.. Didn't check if any rads were on the dhw circuit
 
Well you will need to!
If any rads do heat up you need to repipe the feeds to the heating side.

The 2/3 port valve/s and pump need removing as does the pipe leg from the primary to the cylinder. Feed and vent from the f+e tank need capping off and any bypass valve will likely be a gatevalve type and will need finding and upgrading to an auto bypass, possibly relocating to somewhere more accessible and dependent of course on the mi's of whichever boiler you decide to install.
 
Well you will need to!
If any rads do heat up you need to repipe the feeds to the heating side.

The 2/3 port valve/s and pump need removing as does the pipe leg from the primary to the cylinder. Feed and vent from the f+e tank need capping off and any bypass valve will likely be a gatevalve type and will need finding and upgrading to an auto bypass, possibly relocating to somewhere more accessible and dependent of course on the mi's of whichever boiler you decide to install.

I'll probably fit a worcester greenstar 25i which has an auto bypass fitted internally. I'll check the rad situation out regarding dhw circuit.

Cheers kay-jay
 
I'd have a look at his incoming mains as well Jay. 3.5bar is good, 14l/min not brilliant. Might be an old lead pipe that's got kinked or the stopcock not opening fully.
 
I'd have a look at his incoming mains as well Jay. 3.5bar is good, 14l/min not brilliant. Might be an old lead pipe that's got kinked or the stopcock not opening fully.

yeah I think it's the stopcock, I shut it to double check and it didn't open very much so will probably replace and recheck the f/r
 
I'd start from scratch, re piping the entire system, it'll be good experience and you'll not have to flush or mess around trying to sort out any problems the old systems got
 
I'd have a look at his incoming mains as well Jay. 3.5bar is good, 14l/min not brilliant. Might be an old lead pipe that's got kinked or the stopcock not opening fully.
What is a good f/r to have then? As the MI's only require 11 or 12 I think..
 
I'd start from scratch, re piping the entire system, it'll be good experience and you'll not have to flush or mess around trying to sort out any problems the old systems got
Yeah I'd like to, just depends on how much disruption my bro is willing to handle I.e. floorboards lifting etc
 
Yeah I'd like to, just depends on how much disruption my bro is willing to handle I.e. floorboards lifting etc

Just tell him it's better to do it now than in a few months/years when he's all moved in and settled and there a leak on a old pie that never got replaced
 
Just tell him it's better to do it now than in a few months/years when he's all moved in and settled and there a leak on a old pie that never got replaced

True indeed..
 
I'd find someone working for the council with lots of spare tube and fittings and bribe them with red wine..... Just sayin....
 
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