Thermaboard and a big radiator

[Flora]

I've had thermaboard put on the external walls in a couple of rooms, now need to fit new radiators. The 2 new little radiators upstairs feel pretty solid fitted with hollow wall anchors. Question is, will the 600x1000mm rad for the front room be ok on hollow wall anchors or will it trash the plasterboard? I've looked at all sorts of fixings and can't find any long enough to go through 55mm of insulation to reach the brick. Don't think cutting a window in my nice new wall for noggins is a very appealing idea either...!

 

[SJB060685]

In my house fed by an air source heat pump, which naturally require larger radiators, i have the rads on plaster board wall mounted on feet. The rad brackets mount to plasterboard positioning it and the feet take the brunt of the weight

 

[Murdoch]

Have you tried Gripit fixings?

they are pretty good in my experience

 

[Gasmk1]

These are what you need Best Dot and Dab Cavity Wall Fixings | Hollow Wall Fixings - https://www.corefixed.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwiMj2BRBFEiwAYfTbCm0AzAu3zujbsdcOS0Kg-Mi3co7KnwKJkU7EaHvrOIQGC_tGCuKe5hoCG84QAvD_BwE

 

[Flora]

These are what you need Best Dot and Dab Cavity Wall Fixings | Hollow Wall Fixings - https://www.corefixed.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwiMj2BRBFEiwAYfTbCm0AzAu3zujbsdcOS0Kg-Mi3co7KnwKJkU7EaHvrOIQGC_tGCuKe5hoCG84QAvD_Bw

I've had a look at corefix, but it says only suitable for a voice up to 25mm, I've got 55+ 🙃

 

[ShaunCorbs]

I use a normal plug and screw around 4-5” long depending on cavity and a brown plug

but to span the gap I use a bit of Galv 20mm conduit (Electrical) eg sized so it touches the brick and flush with the plaster

 

[Gasmk1]

I've had a look at corefix, but it says only suitable for a voice up to 25mm, I've got 55+ 🙃

you will have to make up something similar yourself then as the post before says but personally I would go for screwed rod and bond it in with epoxy resin or go for rads with feet like old cast style

 

[oz-plumber]

Get some 120mm dyna bolts.
Drill hole through plaster board an into brick work.
Grab a piece of copper tube ( larger than the dyna bolt), push into wall until it hits the brick.
Measure tube to face of plaster and cut to length.
Insert dyna bolt into copper tube and hammer dyna bolt into brickwork and tighten up - presumably with rad bracket in place.

Done this for years and never had a problem.

Crappy brickwork - chemset allthread into brickwork, using copper sleeve as a spacer.

 

[malx42]

I've had thermaboard put on the external walls in a couple of rooms, now need to fit new radiators. The 2 new little radiators upstairs feel pretty solid fitted with hollow wall anchors. Question is, will the 600x1000mm rad for the front room be ok on hollow wall anchors or will it trash the plasterboard? I've looked at all sorts of fixings and can't find any long enough to go through 55mm of insulation to reach the brick. Don't think cutting a window in my nice new wall for noggins is a very appealing idea either...!

Is this a new radiator? If the room has been insulated you could use a smaller rad.

 

[Flora]

Get some 120mm dyna bolts.
Drill hole through plaster board an into brick work.
Grab a piece of copper tube ( larger than the dyna bolt), push into wall until it hits the brick.
Measure tube to face of plaster and cut to length.
Insert dyna bolt into copper tube and hammer dyna bolt into brickwork and tighten up - presumably with rad bracket in place.

Done this for years and never had a problem.

Crappy brickwork - chemset allthread into brickwork, using copper sleeve as a spacer.

Doesn't it matter that the hole through the plasterboard is bigger the the dyna/sleeved bolt? As in to put the copper tube through, or will the bolt hold straight anyway?
[automerge]1591047109[/automerge]

Is this a new radiator? If the room has been insulated you could use a smaller rad.

Good point, but the room was freeeeeeezing before!

 

[malx42]

Doesn't it matter that the hole through the plasterboard is bigger the the dyna/sleeved bolt? As in to put the copper tube through, or will the bolt hold straight anyway?
[automerge]1591047109[/automerge]

Good point, but the room was freeeeeeezing before!

Were the exterior walls solid brick? Insulating them could Easily reduce heat loss to a fifth or more of previous levels.

 

[SJB060685]

Whereas spending good money on cavity insulation, roof insulation etc helps considerably on heat loss, the new radiator should have been sized using a suitable method to your fabric and ventilation heat loss.

 

[Flora]

Were the exterior walls solid brick? Insulating them could Easily reduce heat loss to a fifth or more of previous levels.

Yes and on a north pointing corner. I really hope the insulation makes a big difference! I've insulated under the floor too, as that room was more or less unusable between September and May!

 

[oz-plumber]

No, because the rad bracket will be hard up against the copper.
The copper acts like a spacer.
When you do the nut up, it pushes the copper onto the brickwork and the back of the radiator bracket.
Just be sure to cut the copper to the right length or it will pull the rad bracket into the plaster board.

Tried and tested - fitted 100's of radiators like this.
The other option is allthread and chemset - but you will still need a copper sleeve

 

[Stigster]

Yes and on a north pointing corner. I really hope the insulation makes a big difference! I've insulated under the floor too, as that room was more or less unusable between September and May!

I think you will be pleasantly surprised with your new insulation. Quick story. I was doing the plumbing on a garage conversion where they were turning into a two story dwelling. The owner was on a tight budget and was not planning to properly insulate the walls. Coming up to the time where it would be too late to insulate, I persuaded the owner that the insulation would eventually pay for itself and was well worth the expense at that stage of the build.

In the end he saw sense and had the insulation fitted. I was working on the underfloor heating just after the insulation went up when the sparky got all the lighting up and running. The customer came in to have a look around and immediately noticed how much warmer the area was. He said "Great! you've got the underfloor heating up and running?" The thing is I hadn't. The combination of the new insulation and the lighting being tested with everything switched on had warmed up the place and kept in the heat generated by us working and also the new lights in the building.

The owner was amazed at the difference and was very pleased he'd had it properly insulated. I think you will also be pleasantly surprised at the difference your insulation makes.

 

[shyguy2005]

I find these fixings fantastic.
Found them originally in a little diy shop and weren’t cheap but was amazed at how strong they were.

found them cheaper on amazon since.

TOGGLER SnapSkru Self-Drilling Drywall Anchor, Pack of 20 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

TOGGLER SnapSkru Self-Drilling Drywall Anchor, Pack of 20 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

www.amazon.co.uk

tried the metals ones in the past but found they just ragged the board.

 

[Flora]

I find these fixings fantastic.
Found them originally in a little diy shop and weren’t cheap but was amazed at how strong they were.

found them cheaper on amazon since.

TOGGLER SnapSkru Self-Drilling Drywall Anchor, Pack of 20 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

TOGGLER SnapSkru Self-Drilling Drywall Anchor, Pack of 20 : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

www.amazon.co.uk

tried the metals ones in the past but found they just ragged the board.

Thanks Shyguy, I've got some of those, but not sure they'd hold up a radiator. Just spent a while watching 'The Ultimate Handyman' on YouTube, he does some great demos of these
[automerge]1591429029[/automerge]

No, because the rad bracket will be hard up against the copper.
The copper acts like a spacer.
When you do the nut up, it pushes the copper onto the brickwork and the back of the radiator bracket.
Just be sure to cut the copper to the right length or it will pull the rad bracket into the plaster board.

Tried and tested - fitted 100's of radiators like this.
The other option is allthread and chemset - but you will still need a copper sleeve

Love that idea, and think I'll do very similar with this ready made space plug... takes out some of the need for accurate measuring View: https://youtu.be/7DGGUbbbBZI

 

[Harvest Fields]

You have probably answered this already, but, is there a reason you are not going through the board straight in to the brick? they are on external walls

 

[Flora]

You have probably answered this already, but, is there a reason you are not going through the board straight in to the brick? they are on external walls

Yeah it's thermaboard, so there's 5cm of insulation before the original crumbly plaster and then the bricks. Hoping the room will be a little more toasty!

 

[oz-plumber]

Maybe I should do a Youtube video of my method.

Can't sell copper tube and tube cutters to DIY'ers so I may just give it a miss

 

[Ben-gee]

Oo you old cynic Oz!

Mind you Wednesbury might slip you a couple of lengths- oo er Matron.