Tindish leaking after boiler service | Boilers | Page 2 | Plumbers Forums

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Just a few things I can spot and type out quickly as I'm on a mobile device right now...

The combination valve should be installed near or above the top of the cylinder so it doesn't need to be drained down to repair/service.

The D1 discharge pipe from the T & P valve must not exceed 600mm in length and that one exceeds that distance.

There must be a continuous vertical section of the D2 discharge pipe of at least 300mm before the first bend after the tundish. They certainly haven't done that unless maybe the pipe out of the tundish goes straight down through the ceiling. The pipe should run vertically (at least have a fall) before the tundish but this one has a long horizontal run instead.

The external expansion vessel must be mounted in a vertical orientation to prevent stagnation and silt trapping.Sadly yours is on its side on the floor.

I'm sorry OP but that's not installed correctly at all.
 
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Just a few things I can spot and type out quickly as I'm on a mobile device right now...

The combination valve should be installed near or above the top of the cylinder so it doesn't need to be drained down to repair/service.

The D1 discharge pipe from the T & P valve must not exceed 600mm in length and that one exceeds that distance.

There must be a continuous vertical section of the D2 discharge pipe of at least 300mm before the first bend after the tundish. They certainly haven't done that unless maybe the pipe out of the tundish goes straight down through the ceiling. The pipe should run vertically (at least have a fall) before the tundish but this one has a long horizontal run instead.

The external expansion vessel must be mounted in a vertical orientation to prevent stagnation and silt trapping.Sadly yours is on its side on the floor.

I'm sorry OP but that's not installed correctly at all.
Well that’s going to cost thousands I’m guessing. :-(
 
Tigermad,

I would suggest that ask the installer to show you his G3 qualification and also who his certifying body is. If he cannot provide it, you should ask for your money back in full. To add a little pressure consider referring him / her to Your local Trading Standards Office - they generally take action in such cases, because they are black and white so easy to progress to a warning letter or for Court action - he / she is either qualified or not.

I would very much doubt that the individual who installed this is qualified. There are far too many basic errors - even the pipe insulation looks like a good attempt by a 9 year old!


Beyond the G3 pressure regulation contraventions, The support for the base of the tank is in contravention of the Building Regulations - also bear in mind that a tank loading of circa 250kg supported by ceiling joists, rather than floor joists, is (in my view) unsafe.

It is a pity, because you have paid for a top of the range expensive UV tank.
 
Tigermad,

I would suggest that ask the installer to show you his G3 qualification and also who his certifying body is. If he cannot provide it, you should ask for your money back in full. To add a little pressure consider referring him / her to Your local Trading Standards Office - they generally take action in such cases, because they are black and white so easy to progress to a warning letter or for Court action - he / she is either qualified or not.

I would very much doubt that the individual who installed this is qualified. There are far too many basic errors - even the pipe insulation looks like a good attempt by a 9 year old!


Beyond the G3 pressure regulation contraventions, The support fir the base of the tank is in contravention of the Building Regulations - also bear in mind that a tank loading of circa 250kg supported by ceiling joists, rather than floor
Thanks. It was installed 2 years ago though. Isn’t it a little too late now? The guy is certified. He’s being doing his job for 30 years. I can’t ask for a refund now can I?
 
Just a few things I can spot and type out quickly as I'm on a mobile device right now...
What Stigster said plus the Benchmark sticker on the cylinder should have been completed with the installer's name and contact details, etc. Without this any warranty on the cylinder will probably be deemed invalid by the manufacturer.

Did you receive a Building Regs compliance certificate covering the installation?

Thanks. It was installed 2 years ago though. Isn’t it a little too late now? The guy is certified. He’s being doing his job for 30 years. I can’t ask for a refund now can I?
Yes, you can. In a case like this you have between six and seven years to sue for breach of contract.
 
There is no time limitation for redress on non compliance with regulations before they are identified.

So the installer is qualified. He / she installed it two years ago, registered it through their certifying body and you have been issued with a Certificate of Compliance by Building Control. That is what qualification means.

All you do now is send to Building Control the certificate and the pictures you have posted here - they will do the rest, initially by contacting the Certifying Body.
 
What Stigster said plus the Benchmark sticker on the cylinder should have been completed with the installer's name and contact details, etc. Without this any warranty on the cylinder will be invalid.

Yes, you can. In a case like this you have between six and seven years to sue for breach of contract.
He is coming round later to look at the dripping and has been doing lots of jobs for me over the years. I feel terrible questioning his workmanship. Not sure how to go about it :-( but want this sorting.
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There is no time limitation for redress on non compliance with regulations before they are identified.

So the installer is qualified. He / she installed it two years ago, registered it through their certifying body and you have been issued with a Certificate of Compliance by Building Control. That is what qualification means.

All you do now is send to Building Control the certificate and the pictures you have posted here - they will do the rest, initially by contacting the Certifying Body.
He has registered it with building control. I have seen in their site but I don’t think I have the certificate.
 
I can't see it being more than a day's work for someone who knows what they are doing. A few hundred is certainly possible but it shouldn't be 'thousands'.
Thanks. What about the tank being too heavy for it’s position?
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I’ve found the building control certificate. But if is only for the boiler. Not the other bits.
 
Thanks. What about the tank being too heavy for it’s position?
Difficult to tell from the photographs. If the joists are a decent size and correctly spaced it just needs to sit on a board(s) to spread the load. (I'd want treated timber or marine ply for this, not chipboard.) If the joists need supplementing it'll add a bit to the cost but still hundreds not thousands.

There is, however, no 'right' price for this sort of work. You need to get a competent firm to inspect the current installation and quote for bringing it up to scratch.
 
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It looks like a DIY job from the pictures.
To give us an idea of if you have been ripped off - Whats new, what did you pay for and what did it cost?
 
Two points.

1. Your roof structure is a traditional ridge beam with a purlin. Slightly unusually, your joists ( which appear to be 6”) are running parallel with the ridge at what seems to be a wide spacing.

On a 6” beam spaced at 2 feet, the centre of a 300 kg tank should be directly over the beam in one direction and a maximum of 3 feet from the point of support in the other. The boarding needs to a minimum of 5/8”.

2. With respect to certification most Gas Safe Registered engineers who are G3, use Gas Safe as the certifying body - just ask the guy to resister the G3 installation too.

Without teaching you to such eggs - these issues ( Building Control Certification) emerge when you want to sell the property - most solicitors packs for mortgaged properties request them.
 
Two points.

1. Your roof structure is a traditional ridge beam with a purlin. Slightly unusually, your joists ( which appear to be 6”) are running parallel with the ridge at what seems to be a wide spacing.

On a 6” beam spaced at 2 feet, the centre of a 300 kg tank should be directly over the beam in one direction and a maximum of 3 feet from the point of support in the other. The boarding needs to a minimum of 5/8”.

2. With respect to certification most Gas Safe Registered engineers who are G3, use Gas Safe as the certifying body - just ask the guy to resister the G3 installation too.

Without teaching you to such eggs - these issues ( Building Control Certification) emerge when you want to sell the property - most solicitors packs for mortgaged properties request them.
Hi. The tank is only a 150 one. Do I definitely need a building control one for the cylinder in the loft?
 
With respect to unvented systems, in England, the installer is under a legal obligation to register the installation with the relevant local authority. This is then certified either by the installer through their competent persons scheme ( such as Gas Safe) or by Building Control. For the installer, the fine fine for not doing so is unlimited, for the homeowner the fine is capped at £5k. Having said that I have never seen a prosecution for not registering an installation.

Where the issues do arise is when a property is being sold and then it is identified that an installation has not been notified. In my area, Building Control are very reluctant to issue a certificate retrospectively and they certainly won’t do it without an inspection ( circa £250).

Bear in mind if Building Control visit, they normally with not issue any certificate for anything unless the installed smoke alarm throughout the property is to current specification.

It is then that the issues technical non compliance emerge, and so the story goes on...
 

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