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I'm having quite a bit of work done so it is my contractor's guy (found the contractor on Mybuilder). I think you are right. He didn't say anything about it during the installation and is now insisting it is fine. I just wish that when he realised there was a problem he had not gone ahead with the installation and got me to return the toilet and order one that worked for the situation.
 
Could have been cut back! Not hard work.

As TFJ said above, first thing with any bathroom is the wc soil pipe. Dictates your toilet or the amount of work required to get a toilet to fit.

I've seen a piece of ply cut to same size as wc footprint, sanded, filled and painted white. Not done it myself though.
 
Could have been cut back! Not hard work.

As TFJ said above, first thing with any bathroom is the wc soil pipe. Dictates your toilet or the amount of work required to get a toilet to fit.

I've seen a piece of ply cut to same size as wc footprint, sanded, filled and painted white. Not done it myself though.
As above, seen wood underneath but this one was same shape as the footprint but slightly larger allowing the top 20mm to be chamfered to the size of the pan, it was then stained and varnished and looked good.
 
I'd use marine ply For under the pan not wbp - worth it in the long run you really don't want to be revisiting it.
Get your mybuilder chappy to fit?
Normal wbp doesn't do so well long term.
 
Raised a few loos with plinths in my time looks good if you get it right.
You really don't want a wall hung pan on anything other than a solid wall in my opinion. What is the wall behind the boxing made of?
If you can get a frame in there like a Geberit one then happy days but you will be paying a lot more than you have so far.
 
The soil pipe does come out of the wall at an angle, I've taken couple pictures inside the box. WhatsApp Image 2019-03-15 at 11.11.18.jpeg WhatsApp Image 2019-03-15 at 11.11.17.jpeg
 
If you were to use slightly more than average toilet paper every flush I reckon you might cause a blockage before the roll of paper reached the end ;)

All in the name of testing of course :p
 
So if we raise the floor, or put the toilet on a plinth, will all my problems be solved? Also get a shorter pipe to fix the kink in the clean water pipe.

We also wanted the toilet more to the right (when looking at it straight on) and my contractor says this will need an angled pipe (replacement of the black connector). The old toilet used to be more to the right, with an angled connector so hopefully this shouldn't cause a problem.
 
Can I just tell my contractor to raise the floor, straighten the clean water pipe, use a non flexi waste connector and buy an angled connector to move the toilet to the right?
 
Those are all reasonable things to do and I don't know why they couldn't have done all that the first time round. If this was a DIY job I'd say "Well done, you've done well to get this far, just need to address a couple of issues" but for a plumber to do this, I'd be asking if he really was a plumber.

We've got the toilet not positioned where you want it, a pan connector running up hill (water flows down hill, a plumber should understand that ;-) a kinked flexi on the cold feed and and two soldered joints left in a state.

Those soldered joints need cleaning up too, the flux left all over it stands a good chance of corroding the pipe over time.

This is surely installed by a builder and not a plumber? I genuinely hate criticising other people's work and usually keep my nose out of it but these are basic things and they are not done right.

Give them a chance to put things right and only get annoyed if they can't or won't.
 
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It'd be worth cleaning any green staining off around the joints. It might be a bit baked on so one of those green fibrous scrubbing pads might come in useful in scrubbing that off. Just use a bit of warm water and a scrubbing pad and it'll clean up easily enough.
 
Hot water and a scrubbing pad should clean them up easy
 
Could have been cut back! Not hard work.

As TFJ said above, first thing with any bathroom is the wc soil pipe. Dictates your toilet or the amount of work required to get a toilet to fit.

I've seen a piece of ply cut to same size as wc footprint, sanded, filled and painted white. Not done it myself though.

This works really well.
 
Hard to tell from the photos but the cast end looks a fair bit lower than what's been attached to it - if you got rid of that length of black plastic pipe and the rubber adaptor and see if the flexi will go straight into the cast (assuming it would fit - they sometimes do with the fins cut off).
 
Yep that is not right but you may as well leave it and see how it goes. The water in your toilet pan will be up higher but with the push of the water and hopefully fall on the soil pipe it should keep flushing away. Easy to sort flexi out just take it off and replace with longer one.
 
Hard to tell from the photos but the cast end looks a fair bit lower than what's been attached to it - if you got rid of that length of black plastic pipe and the rubber adaptor and see if the flexi will go straight into the cast (assuming it would fit - they sometimes do with the fins cut off).
Good point, hadn't noticed that when I first looked at pic - the cast end does look lower. The rubber adapter is what's raising the height of flexi. I'd get rid and use a cast to plastic pipe adapter, then extend with 4" plastic pipe and appropriate pan connecter - maybe an offset one.
 

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