UFH Pressure Test Length / Pressure Dropping | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Page 2 | Plumbers Forums
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Discuss UFH Pressure Test Length / Pressure Dropping in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Where is the aav even if its a temporary one ?chking

Is that the white plastic thing on top of the drain/fill valve that you can change using a flat head screwdriver? I've not gone near that so it will be in how it was supplied by the manufacturer.

Is there any benefit in getting an auto one over a manual one or is this something a plumber will sort out when everything is connected up to the boiler/pump etc?


If there's air in the system then yes the pressure can drop.

If anything else you would have water everywhere.

Okay that's good to know thanks.
 
Last edited:
Is that the white plastic thing on top of the drain/fill valve that you can change using a flat head screwdriver? I've not gone near that so it will be in how it was supplied by the manufacturer.

Is there any benefit in getting an auto one over a manual one or is this something a plumber will sort out when everything is connected up to the boiler/pump etc?




Okay that's good to know thanks.
send a picture this will help a lot chking
 
I don't have a decent front on photo at the moment (we don't live at the property) but these are the fill/drain valves on the system - Manifold fill/drain valve pair

Would there be any benefit in getting something like this instead - Manifold fill/drain valve pair with auto air vent
They are very simple manual radiator bleed valves, you most certainly should have opened them till water appeared then closed them and done the same operation plenty of times. I know a little about UFH but much about principles it looks like mickey mouse stuff in my opinion Chking
 
I know its a long shot but are you relying on the pressure tester valve to close off the system or are you isolating it through an additional valve / lever arm .

We've tried both the drain valve on the system and the pressure tester valve but it doesn't seem to make any difference, the pressure still drops either way.
They are very simple manual radiator bleed valves, you most certainly should have opened them till water appeared then closed them and done the same operation plenty of times. I know a little about UFH but much about principles it looks like mickey mouse stuff in my opinion Chking

Okay thanks for clearing that up, I'm a little reluctant to start altering them as the manufacturers written and video instructions doesn't mention doing anything to them during the installation/setup process.
 

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