Very old valve in 22mm pipe | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Very old valve in 22mm pipe in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
Messages
18
I have a seized shut-off valve in the 22mm pipe down from the cold water header tank to the hot water cylinder. It was installed over 50 years ago and it is now stuck open so that I cannot service a hot water tap without draining the system. The valve handle is a large brass vertical oval shape and the the valve has a brass nut on the other side of the 22mm pipe. Unfortunately the pipe is flush against a wall so that I cannot cut the valve  out and replace it. My only hope is to dismantle the valve by removing the brass nut at the rear and withdrawing the "innards" for hopeful cleaning. What will I find in there? Is there some sort of valve packing or gasket which will need to be renewed or will a simple descaling and greasing do the trick?
 
If it's 50 years old it will be 3/4" not 22mm

Can you cut a new valve in above or below and leave the old one in?
 
Thanks for your response. I have measured the pipe with a vernier and confirm it is 22mm. I considered what you suggest but the pipe is in the airing cupboard and only leaves the wall at the bottom behind the cylinder. It is difficult even to see it down there.
 
Cut in a lever valve at outlet of cold water header. Have a couple of 3/4" olives to hand, so if pipe is not 22mm, normal 22mm compression fitting can still be used.
 
what you will find is an old type tap that relies on grease to allow it to open and close it probably had a small laek at some time and somene has tightened the backnut up which has made it too stiff to turn. could be taken apart and greased but you will need to drain down to do it easier to get it replaced. or use the self cutting tap already mentioned
 
Thanks. That is similar except that mine is soldered into the pipe and there is no sign of a spring on the nut.
 
As the header tank is in the loft I would have to climb up there to do it but I a, firbidden to do that by my GP. Problems at every turn!!
 
I cannot see any reference to a self-cutting tap in my thread but I will investigate. Meanwhile a drain-down and re-grease is not too much of a problem as long as it works after the job is done. Otherwise it's a cold shower for a few days until I can get a professional in to fix it .
 
it may not have a spring as that is for a gas one so you dont overtighten it yours is an old water one so it will be a nut that holds a disc washer in place
 
http://www.NoLinkingToThis/p/aladdi...ZR6ZQYG5yyNgRSV1pr613E_IFPdcbCf5V_BoCEBrw_wcB
 
it will be metal remember to use potable grease even though it is on hot water there will be toxins in normal grease
 
it is actually the cold water feed to the hot water cylinder but your point is well noted. I feelmuch easier about this now unless the washer is damaged of course. You have all been very helpful.
 
After I remove the nut on this fan stopcock will I then be able to withdraw the core?. I have seen a diagram showing a niting washer which seems to be secured by 2 screws. If they need to be taken out before the core comes out the job is virtually impossible because I will not be able to see them at the back of the airing cupboard and they are probably corroded in anyway!.
 
I know you are hoping to do this job yourself , but you could just be wasting your time & effort, just call someone out to replace it, save yourself some money and have the roof tank emptied B4 they call
 
Get a plumber with a pipe freeze to freeze it off ad replace - 30 minute job done...
 
Personally I always avoid overthinking things. Bung something in the coldwater tank like a plastic bag or something where the feed is to that valve. Unscrew and replace it. Job done. I go into a job to sort it as quick as possible. If I can do it in 30 mins and be off. I'm happy. Customer is happy and I'm sure I'll get a call again.
 
As I said earlier I cannot, for medical reasons, climb into the loft to access the tank so the bung and plastic bag ideas are not practicable. The valve is not a compression one, it is soldered into the pipe and flush with a wall in the airing cupboard. I have approached a local plumber 4 days ago but he has not visited yet. Thanks to all for the suggestions.
 
If it is stuck open, turn the water off at main stop tap and run off the hot water until it stops. Then you can take nut off back of plug cock and tap it out with a hammer ( gently ).

Wire wool, the right grease and bob's your uncle !.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

    • Like
From this post, I think you’ve got a good...
2
Replies
47
Views
6K
  • Question
Thanks very much for the comments, guys. :) I...
Replies
6
Views
5K
T
  • Locked
Great advice, thanks. Trench will be dug by...
Replies
3
Views
2K
tommys
T
Back
Top