Vibration when first opening hot tap after u/v cylinder heating cycle | UK Plumbers Forums | Page 2 | Plumbers Forums
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Discuss Vibration when first opening hot tap after u/v cylinder heating cycle in the UK Plumbers Forums area at Plumbers Forums

Messages
18
Hi all. As the title says, I have a problem with an unvented cylinder I had installed last year where the first time I turn a hot tap on after the cylinder has been heated I get what sounds like a vibration. It generally starts about 1s after I open the tap and lasts for about 1.5s. I've attached a recording, the start of the recording is when the tap is opened.

This problem has been ongoing from the start but seems to have gotten worse in the last 6 months. The company that did the install don't seem to have a clue and now are pretty much trying to wash their hands of the situation.

A bit about the system...

ATAG i32s boiler in the kitchen, primary flow and return go up to the cylinder in the loft, about 13m away before coming back down on another 8m run before they tee off for any rads (is this normal? Means that hot water has to travel over 20m, and up through the unheated loft before seeing a rad).

250l Joule Cyclone Plus in the loft, with Caleffi valve set to 3 bar, and 19l expansion vessel. One side of the valve has cold main on top and balanced cold on bottom, other side has EV on top with cylinder feed on bottom.

Flow rate to unrestricted tap straight off main is about 18l/min.

Pressure on main is about 4 bar, rises to 5 bar after a heating cycle on the cylinder.

Pressure on the hot is 3 bar normally, rises to 4 bar after a heating cycle.

Sure there's some information I've left out, if so please do tell me.


Any suggestions would be so gratefully received, got a whole house renovation to project plan before January, a new baby to take care of, and a day job to do. Could really have done with not having to think about this!
 

Attachments

  • Heating.mp3
    59.8 KB
I don't like the ev connected to the combi valve. Prefer to t it in closer to the cold cylinder inlet.
That sounds like it might solve the issue if it's chatter caused by turbulence in the valve from increased pressure from the EV emptying. Assume that asking the engineer to cap off the EV outlet on the combi valve, swap the elbow to the cylinder for a tee and take that to the EV would be suitable?

I would like to reiterate that I am not planning on doing this work myself, I want to be able to claim on my house insurance should anything go pop. And for the sake of a few quid that's not a risk I'm willing to take.
 
And it's fixed! Had someone move the EV from the combi to the cylinder cold feed and the problem is instantly fixed.
Excited Season 2 GIF by The Office
 

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