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Discuss Viessmann boiler set at max just to get enough heat in the Boilers area at Plumbers Forums

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Just had a new Viessmann Vitoden 100w heat only boiler installed, I have to turn the dial all the way to max just to get some decent heat, if I turn it all the way (so it's pointing at reset) it'll settle at around 76 degrees. Is this normal? It's modulating fine, I was maybe expecting to set the dial at the dot at 4, but that's not hot enough to heat the hot water cylinder. Pump is on medium speed setting, any slower and some of the rads don't heat up.
IMG_20181215_110622.jpg
 
I would say it's modulating down due to the temp rise
 
Just turned my one up to max & got high 60's so I would guess you have Weather comp on, If you boost the hot water does the rad disappear to be replaced with a tap?

I don't think I have weather comp, no mention of it by the installer. I don't have a hot water boost, it's a traditional heat only boiler. Cylinder stat is set to 65.
 
does the temp go up to about 65 degrees then drops down then back up then down if so its a flow problem the return temp is out of alignment with the flow (too great a difference)
 
does the temp go up to about 65 degrees then drops down then back up then down if so its a flow problem the return temp is out of alignment with the flow (too great a difference)
No once it's got up to temp and modulated the flame height down, the temp stays constant, have it running at 72 at the moment and seems fine although still not sure the rads are as hot as they were on my old Baxi.

Something else I noticed, I've had a F2 fault code (temp limit) and noticed after the boiler shut down that the latent temp kept going up and up and up, seems I don't have pump overrun any more which I had on my old boiler. Something else to call the installer about tomorrow!
 
Here's the heating curves, doesn't say what they are without WC though. But position 6 should generate temps between 60-90, hence wondering why I can't get more heat when dial is on max...

heat curves.JPG
 
thats the curve for wather compensation what controls do you have. is there a small white box on the outside of your house on a north or north west wall may be high up
 
I doubt if this has WC , its not required for boiler plus , its just combis unless somebody knows different .
IMO the boiler is working fine , if the rads aren’t as warm as your old Baxi , it will be because it probably wasn't a condensing boiler and had a much highter flow temp .
 
The best advice is to get your installer back , post a picture of the install is the benchmark section completed in the installation manual it would be interesting to see the figures? how long did the install take . Kop
 
Install took about 4 hours in total, no idea if that's quick, it felt quick to me. I've kept the same controls. There's deffo no WC on this and thinking about it more I don't think it would work as in summer there wouldn't be enough heat for the DHW.

Anyway here's some more pics...

Before:
IMG_20181123_102737.jpg


IMG_20181202_124532.jpg

During:
IMG_20181214_090917.jpg

After:
IMG_20181216_171705.jpg


Benchmark (interesting return temp there, but I am going to go round all the rads anyway and rebalance them for a 20 degree drop if I can):
IMG_20181216_172702-edited.jpg
 
Oh dear thats not right I am afraid to say that you have a poor install there bud have you paid this chap? please say no Is he a approved installer for viessman I very much doubt it looking at that, get gas safe out to inspect the job 4 hours for a install has alarm bells ringing it takes longer than that to do a chemical clean the gas supply will most probably be undersized do you have other gas appliances this could be a serious problem . All the best Kop
 
22mm gas pipe runs to behind the kitchen unit (where there used to be a floor standing boiler) then reduces down to 15mm for the last 1.5m, so I believe the gas supply is okay although don't know if the gas rate in the benchmark indicates an issue. There are no other gas appliances in the house.

Not sure how thoroughly the system was cleaned, he said the water in my system was already clear, no discolouration, probably because I flushed it and added inhibitor in the summer. The paperwork says he used MC1, no idea what that is.

This was all done through Hassle Free Boilers, they are accredited by Viessmann, I checked before buying as wanted the 10 year warranty. I'll be calling tomorrow to make sure they register it.
 
22mm gas pipe runs to behind the kitchen unit (where there used to be a floor standing boiler) then reduces down to 15mm for the last 1.5m, so I believe the gas supply is okay although don't know if the gas rate in the benchmark indicates an issue. There are no other gas appliances in the house.

Not sure how thoroughly the system was cleaned, he said the water in my system was already clear, no discolouration, probably because I flushed it and added inhibitor in the summer. The paperwork says he used MC1, no idea what that is.

This was all done through Hassle Free Boilers, they are accredited by Viessmann, I checked before buying as wanted the 10 year warranty. I'll be calling tomorrow to make sure they register it.

They might be but the company that installed it isn't

So no 10 year warranty
 
Mc3 is a cleaner which needs to be circulated through your system for a minimum of 2 hours , mc1 is the inhibitor added when fully commissioned and tested , again your choice but I would have the install inspected by gas safe it costs you nothing and you will have peace of mind your safe and your boiler warranty will be intact . Kop
 
First of all I would contact Viessmann and check what warranty you have serial no is ontop of the boiler right hand side of the flue

Also you would on a system have a flow temp of 65-70 dc and a return temp of 50-55dc
 

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