what the best way to change a worcester junior greenstar 24i prv | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Plumbers Forums

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J

julesverne

seen one today and have to change it in the next couple of days. any idea's on the best way to do it. dont really want to take the whole hydroblck out which worcester tech suggested. blinking stupid place to put it.

taking out the return to the boiler to get a bit more space should make it a bit easier

any other tips gratefully received.
 
I don't know of another way but you are right. They could not have put it in a worse place. On warranty calls the WB boys just take the hydroblock out. Mind they have a van full of every washer etc for when it does not seal afterwards.
 
With worcester prvs sometimes its easier lifting if off the wall and doing it from the back!
 
Id heard that some wb engineers drill the rivet out of the prv holder but to do this you would need to cut out a pice of white plastic trim down the side. Ask wb tech support they you csnt do this as it forms part of the jig. Is this true?

It would life a whole lot easier as you just pop it out from the side then. Any one have any thoughts opinions on this.
 
Cut the cold water inlet pipe out the way to fit your hand up the back.
 
There isn't a best way. Absolute tosh design and wb are meant to be one of the better manufacturers.
 
on training course they said its possible just by removing the cold inlet pipe - their boiler must have been sevretly modded as when I tried on site I ended chiselling some of the plater of the wall behind to get it out. come out easy in training van
 
WB are a pile of sh/t.

i had a plate hex to change on one, needed all kinds to changing. A proper washer/service kit on bits you took out.

if you cut the cold and 1 other pipe I think ? You can get the plate out without doing all that b)llocks
 
Yep, cut the cold mains to get easier access, unless the pipe is easy to move out the way just by undoing it.

Put you hand up and spend about 20 mins getting it out and the new one in by feel only! I've done a couple now this way, but before that I took the whole manifold out on the one. Ball ache. Unless you have all new seals then it's a PIA job.
 
Yep, cut the cold mains to get easier access, unless the pipe is easy to move out the way just by undoing it.

Put you hand up and spend about 20 mins getting it out and the new one in by feel only! I've done a couple now this way, but before that I took the whole manifold out on the one. Ball ache. Unless you have all new seals then it's a PIA job.

The washer kit is about £50 isn't it ?

Joke
 
I'm not sure. I had to take it out 3 times and pile loads of silicon grease on to get it all back in and water tight. Pain.
 
I'm not sure. I had to take it out 3 times and pile loads of silicon grease on to get it all back in and water tight. Pain.

I didn't get it right straight away, even though it felt like I had fitted it ok.
 
Flue turret off, isolate boiler, undo the 5 nuts , lift boiler up and pull bottom forward whilst top is still on jig. Should be able to remove then, replace 5 fibre washers and refit.

Or

flue turret off, flue out, undo 5 nuts, lift boiler up and completely off the wall. Remove jig. Replace with another boiler. Smash Worcester boiler up into tiny pieces and recycle into something more worthy.
 
Flue turret off, isolate boiler, undo the 5 nuts , lift boiler up and pull bottom forward whilst top is still on jig. Should be able to remove then, replace 5 fibre washers and refit.
Even taking the boiler off the jig, I've replaced the Expansion vessel and rebuilt with new washers etc in less than an hour. I wouldn't bother removing the hydroblock much more fiddling about. Although have had two recently with the water spraying from the DHW side which needed removing and replacing.
 
did this today undid both the return and cold inlet. took about 1hr 20 mins not as bad as thought. used a bike tyre lever to gently push it home worked a treat. longest part was try to get clip out of old 1 before realising it had a hook on bottom part so needed to pull it down slightly to pull out.
 
fit a duotec HEA instead no plastic to perforate and flood the place ,no stupid blue lights or weird burner gaskets,prv changed in 3.5 mins if i am flying
 
fit a duotec HEA instead no plastic to perforate and flood the place ,no stupid blue lights or weird burner gaskets,prv changed in 3.5 mins if i am flying

Ever done one with a integral filling loop? Pain! Best removing the loop, although some times you need to change the washers then.

Still not as bad as these gstar ijnr though!
 
Have to do one of these later, cant lift the boiler off. Drat

i have to cut the return to install an expansion vessel so i can pull that out to give me more room.

can i get the clip off and lever the old one out with a thick screwdriver?

in the past ive just lifted em off :(

i seriously don't fancy taking the hydroblock out.
its in poor condition as it is.
 
I normally cut the cold inlet out and then you can do it, should be ok with the return pipe out the way though.
 
Flue turret off, isolate boiler, undo the 5 nuts , lift boiler up and pull bottom forward whilst top is still on jig. Should be able to remove then, replace 5 fibre washers and refit.

Or

flue turret off, flue out, undo 5 nuts, lift boiler up and completely off the wall. Remove jig. Replace with another boiler. Smash Worcester boiler up into tiny pieces and recycle into something more worthy.

will the flue turret come off if the flue has been cemented in
 
will the flue turret come off if the flue has been cemented in

Yeah it should do as you can slide in inner flue connection from the boiler down back inside case so it finishes flush to the top so the elbow should slide out, if that makes sense?

I actually had a prv and expansion vessel to do on one a month ago and did it in about 45mins, luckily the flue hadn't been cemented in by the idiot that fitted it so I could just take it out and get the vessel out easily and then got my hand up the back of the boiler and did the prv.
 
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