Worcester 30Si misbehaving ? | Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board | Page 2 | Plumbers Forums
  • Welcome to PlumbersTalk.net

    Welcome to Plumbers' Talk | The new domain for UKPF / Plumbers Forums. Login with your existing details they should all work fine. Please checkout the PT Updates Forum

Welcome to the forum. Although you can post in any forum, the USA forum is here in case of local regs or laws

American Visitor?

Hey friend, we're detecting that you're an American visitor and want to thank you for coming to PlumbersTalk.net - Here is a link to the American Plumbing Forum. Though if you post in any other forum from your computer / phone it'll be marked with a little american flag so that other users can help from your neck of the woods. We hope this helps. And thanks once again.

Discuss Worcester 30Si misbehaving ? in the Plumbing Jobs | The Job-board area at Plumbers Forums

Status
Not open for further replies.
Get your installer to take the old bypass valve out and just cap it off both sides , 15 mins work if that turn your boiler stat down to 2-3 give it a try , you will know if you need a chemical clean .
 
Get your installer to take the old bypass valve out and just cap it off both sides , 15 mins work if that turn your boiler stat down to 2-3 give it a try , you will know if you need a chemical clean .

Thanks for that again kop. Just to check I understand you correctly tho, by suggesting to remove the old bypass valve, are you also implying that he install one of the newer spring-loaded ones you mentioned previously?
 
So, I've been looking at info re the spring-loaded bypass valve, and it seems like that is definitely the way forward these days. But again, the one in place is left over from the original CH install about 15 yrs ago, when I from what I've read it was normal to have a valve like I have partially open.

So in order to try and resolve the problem, which is definitely still persisting, what is the best order of suggestions from above to carry out? I will get a price for a re-pipe, but I would prefer not to go down that road until summer unless absolutely necessary. Then I may consider changing rads, valves, etc if reqd. For now, however, perhaps just adding one of the cleaning compounds to system followed by powerflush & replacement bypass valve change. Might that be a good plan of attack?

Cheers

Use Fernox F5, replace old rad valves, don't waste your money on power flush with 10mm pipes , not recommended, Places sludge usely collects is in valves due to size of waterways, rads,and I have had blockages in the man-a-folds, so replace them as well
 
Just try what I advised first you can install a external bypass later there is one in the boiler so will be ok just don't run it flat out until you have proved you have flow .
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar plumbing topics

That’s normal tbh won’t go into max burn on ch
Replies
3
Views
861
well, I really cannot see what extra features...
Replies
10
Views
1K
C
Nobody seems to know what this is based on, if...
Replies
2
Views
563
You've already spent thousands on a new boiler...
Replies
2
Views
954
Hi ShaunCorbs I received a phone call from a...
Replies
19
Views
1K
Back
Top