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A

Andymav

hi guys looking for some technical advice just replaced a drayton ZA5 actuator valve head as when the customer was putting the hot water on they were getting heating aswell the problem ive found is that the valve stays open constantly, when power is cut to the system it closes but when i switch the power back on it opens and doesnt shut so it allows hot water to flow to the heating aswell as the hot water circuit they have a vailiant ecotec boiler and a megaflow pressurised cylinder i cant figure out why the valve doesnt close off the flow to the heating


andy
 
Turn off timer and stats so there is no demand for heat. Take cover off zv. The two wires coming to motor carry power and open Valve.

In accordance with manufactured instructions set up your multi meter to work on 240v. Put one lead on to a neutral wire in connector block and then test either of the wires to the motor. If one of them is live its the wrong wire. Take a picture of zv wires and pic of wires in box
 
When the valve is stuck open, is there power on the brown wire?

If so then a control is keeping the valve open, if not then the valve is most likely faulty.

Disconnect the brown and the valve should close, if not then it's burglered.
 
Turn off timer and stats so there is no demand for heat. Take cover off zv. The two wires coming to motor carry power and open Valve.

In accordance with manufactured instructions set up your multi meter to work on 240v. Put one lead on to a neutral wire in connector block and then test either of the wires to the motor. If one of them is live its the wrong wire.

Are you sure?
 
yes there seems to be power flowing through it which tells me that something is telling it to stay open

You have connected a perm live to it so as others said check timer is off. Put timer on and test room stat, put on room stat, test across s/l and neutral - small voltage difference, now turn stat to 10c should have big diffrrnce 180v or more. Do same on cylinder stat . If they both break and make circuit turn both to low (no demand) check again at motor for voltage. If no voltage then u have a faulty time switch. If you have voltage u made a boo boo and connected one wire to perm live.
 
Could you have the brown and grey wires crossed to the wrong connections? The grey is live when mains are on and would then back feed and keep the valve open
 
Last edited:
As the problem was there before the new valve wss fitted it would be logical to assume that it is not the wiring or the valve at fault more likely to be the programmer or possibly stat.

How would stat bring in hot water if wired correctly? Perhaps timer wired incorrectly ? Easy way to check is remove wires for heating and hot water from back plate on timer and re test?
 
it would appear that yes the zone valve wasnt the problem originally i would assume the programmer is the problem, the system is quite new as the houses are new builds and the wiring centre is wago connectors il include a picture the wiring is exactly as it was i have double checked my wiring and it seems ok so im assuming the programmer has developed a fault
 
You have connected a perm live to it so as others said check timer is off. Put timer on and test room stat, put on room stat, test across s/l and neutral - small voltage difference, now turn stat to 10c should have big diffrrnce 180v or more. Do same on cylinder stat . If they both break and make circuit turn both to low (no demand) check again at motor for voltage. If no voltage then u have a faulty time switch. If you have voltage u made a boo boo and connected one wire to perm live.

Why 180v?
Mains voltage is usually 230 to 240v.
This is really basic stuff imo and if as suggested, the op has made a boo boo, then perhaps it's time to call a professional to sort it out.
 

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